Ah excuses every racer has them. Some just only have them

 

We'll any real racer/ tuner want use an fmu that is straight up crap, I wouldant run one on my push mower it's basically like a boost a pump I want run that crap either, I only run a proper fuel system period or leave it all factory

 

Mr. Twinskrewd Ok, thanks for your comments, and I would ask you, my truck is for everyday use, not for competition, but the ambient heat rages, these core radiators 1 3/8 ", is 1 ò 2 rows then enough for me?, maybe in a year or two go to an engine built and 12 to 13 psi maximum, this radiator is the one, and the cost is much lower than the $ 600 or more of the other, and there my concern is, why had not considered, because of its low cost, or the difference against the other.

 

Facts: You run a 15-16 second quarter. Bone stock Ecos run 14s. Bone stock 5.0s run high 14s depending on driver.

BS: You claim to beat both. You said in your other thread the EB was catching up and would have passed you, later when its pointed out you say you were going to beat it.

 

The stock injectors on 04 and up will not support 8 psi the only reason it works is cause the ramp the fuel pump voltage up to compensate for the small injectors

 

He's not picking them apart, he's correcting you. You make it sound like its perfectly fine to even go more boost, 9psi, on stock injectors when in fact its un true. They leave the stock injectors open longer with 8 PSI and ramp up the pump. Is it safe? Only as long as your pump can handle it. Most aftermarket companies say JDM will sell you 39lb injectors with the kit for this reason. VMP, JDM and Troyer will not custom tune without upgrading injectors for this reason, at least that's what they all told me personally. You go ahead and install Whipples on your customers trucks and let them run 10:1 A/F and see how long the pump is happy that way. Even tell them running more boost is ok.

Eco boost don't break the tires loose because first gear in the ford tune keep power down, as does traction control to prevent such a thing.

Drive a stock F150 and a Livernois and tell me the twin turbos still lag and wont spin the tires..

 

We'll I've drove one brand new on the lot I was going side ways on the road it was strong and I have one at the shop with a livernois tune and it hauls *** and one a buddy had with 3.55 rear. 4 door 4x4 6.5 bed and 20 inch wheels ran 15.0 at 91 in 80 degree heat

 

What..? You did a 15-16 second quarter mile. How the hell do u own a 14 second truck? Please explain how this works to me in your delusional world.

 

Hey Leonardo, I am curious, what engine temps are you seeing now? And what thermostat are you using. I recall you saying in past threads that your ambient temps are 100F and above.

I believe the dual core 1 3/8 radiator will be just the ticket for you and keep cost way down. But I would like to hear your response to the questions above. From what I found the Motorcraft part number 6L3Z8005B is the dual core 1 3/8 model. It retails for $477.08 but can be purchased for much less. And if you go with a quality OEM spec aftermarket version it can be had for well under $200. This is the radiator I plan to upgrade to in anticipation of my built motor.
The other radiators mentioned early on that come at high cost will more then do the job. You just have to decide if it's worth it.

 

Hello Mr. Jason , my engine temperatures at WOT up fast at 220-230 ° F , traveling at 100 mph , but speed more the temperature rises, my relationship A / F at wot this for 11-12 . At the moment I have not circulated much but , the room temperature was about 110 ° F and the air conditioning on as the temperature rises quickly. Motorcraft eFans but I have a switch Direct are both at the same time, traffic does not raise the temperature reaches about 185 ° F , but when I can accelerate and maintain speed , even with the eFans , goes fast and should slow down. I clean the inside of the stock radiator and still the same. I just got a quote of $ 916 rondavisradiators for much money. Vista Pro has a radiator which, according PartsGeek is the part number Part Number: W0133 - 1702384 with 2 " core for $ 220.98 , but I worry that in the image the connections for the transmission oil are on the opposite side . Do not understand how these radiators cost $ 200 and the others are above $ 600 , ok , are 2-3 rows and aluminum all but $ 200 these are so inefficient ? , my doubts . Reische I have a room thermostat to 170 ° F that works great . not like comparing one of these against eg the Saleen , the Fluidyne , etc. . I think I will buy one of these or Spectra 1 7/16 , saving money and I get a great improvement. Regardless of the conditions, do not you think? .

 

I would definitely try it. Lets say it does what you need for now. If and when you go built it does not do the job you sell the radiator and pick up something else. But I think it will be fine. I have that same thermostat and the single core radiator. I've never seen temps above 198F. But it's 80-90F outside so that makes a difference.

 

If your temperatures are fine in traffic, that tells me u have a flow problem inside the radiator as it stays cool when going slower but once u are going down the road it don't have enough flow I've seen this many times were people are like I've had it flushed, we'll that don't help swap the radiator u will be fine

 

U do realize these truck were designed for any temperature from the factory and the blower is not gonna add heat driving normal, just ain't gonna happen

 

You say you beat an Ecoboost now. Before he would have beat you. Ecos run deep 14s. You run 15s. Unless that eco wasn't racing he would have ate you up.

 

Here you go Crash. As requested http://www.blueovalindustries.com/en.../eb109042.html