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Old Sep 14, 2013 | 04:04 AM
  #46  
widj's Avatar
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I've got some updates..

I just pickup the truck at the garage, I wanted them to inspect a noise from the vehicle and they replaced the swaybar link ($70+labour)

they also inspected the vehicle and found out 2 things:
-something in the rear diff has been damaged because I was doing burnouts and the diff can't take that much beating with a supercharger so they told me that I should have it serviced, the 2nd option is to add a possi as per what they say would make the diff stronger allowing me to do burnouts safely

a mechanic showed me a video of my diff saying that it was loose, in the video he was showing me that the gears were loose, moving while he was moving something with his hands, not sure what

their quote:
To keep the rear end stock:
YPKF88S31 spider gear set $186.60
YCF3180S carrier $273.73
YKF88A master overhaul kit $156.22
RP01301 royal purple synthetic gear oil $73.29
4.5 hour labour $405
Shop supplies $33.12
Total after Tax $1263.32

If you want a stronger rear end go with a possi
YKF88A master overhaul kit $156.22
YGLF8831 Yukon Grizzley possi lock $934.20
RP01301 royal purple synthetic gear oil $73.29
4.5 hour labour $405
Shop supplies $33.12
Total after Tax $1794.05

2nd thing the transmission
one of the guy there took it for a test drive and told me that the transmission is slipping a bit, he said that the rpm goes high but the vehicle doesn't speed accordingly, which I guess could explain my low HP on the dyno?

I called a transmission place and they told me they could make the transmission stronger for $2600

I wanted to know you guys point of view on what they suggested, possi and rebuilding transmission, your recommendations?
 
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Old Sep 14, 2013 | 06:53 AM
  #47  
twinskrewd's Avatar
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From: North Carolina
Originally Posted by widj
I have the 2 files in .drf and I can open them with winpep, is that what you mean? how is it incorrect?

I asked for boost but he told me that his gauge was broken and that he was waiting for the new one, bad coincidence eh
Look at the top right corner of your second dyno sheet. It says "CF: Uncorrected. Smoothing 0
Every location has different temperatures, altitudes, pressures, humidity, etc. So you can't compare two HP values if they are done in completely different air conditions (meaning the engines are taking in different "kinds" of air). 'Correcting' Dyno numbers takes out the effects of atmospheric conditions at the time of the pull. It basically gives a level comparison for all dyno numbers generally 1 atm pressure, 68 degrees, 0% humidity. You would have to check with your local shop.
Altitude, Temperature, and Humidity are all things that would negatively affect Dyno numbers.

Dyno numbers are hard to compare even on the same day on the same dyno. That's why dyno numbers mean so little. Track results are what matter. I once had a tune from a Mustang shop that showed me making 427/468 truck was bone stock with just the Whipple 7.1psi and I ran 13.5 in the quarter mile. I added long tubes, true duals, efans, 10psi pulley, and had Troyer tune it. Made 420/469. I was pissed. Went to the track ran 13.3 and had a much safer tune. Added drag tires, dual adjustable shocks, traction bars, 4.11 gears, and eventually ran 12.9. So as you can see the dyno numbers mean nothing.

Smoothing is a feature that smooths out the lines on your dyno chart. Instead of looking like a heartbeat the lines flow more evenly such as the first chart. I like to see smoothing set no lower then 3. Personal preference.
 

Last edited by twinskrewd; Sep 14, 2013 at 08:56 AM.
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Old Sep 14, 2013 | 11:51 AM
  #48  
Randyl9ll's Avatar
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 262
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From: Modesto, CA
Originally Posted by widj
I've got some updates..

I just pickup the truck at the garage, I wanted them to inspect a noise from the vehicle and they replaced the swaybar link ($70+labour)

they also inspected the vehicle and found out 2 things:
-something in the rear diff has been damaged because I was doing burnouts and the diff can't take that much beating with a supercharger so they told me that I should have it serviced, the 2nd option is to add a possi as per what they say would make the diff stronger allowing me to do burnouts safely

a mechanic showed me a video of my diff saying that it was loose, in the video he was showing me that the gears were loose, moving while he was moving something with his hands, not sure what

their quote:
To keep the rear end stock:
YPKF88S31 spider gear set $186.60
YCF3180S carrier $273.73
YKF88A master overhaul kit $156.22
RP01301 royal purple synthetic gear oil $73.29
4.5 hour labour $405
Shop supplies $33.12
Total after Tax $1263.32

If you want a stronger rear end go with a possi
YKF88A master overhaul kit $156.22
YGLF8831 Yukon Grizzley possi lock $934.20
RP01301 royal purple synthetic gear oil $73.29
4.5 hour labour $405
Shop supplies $33.12
Total after Tax $1794.05

2nd thing the transmission
one of the guy there took it for a test drive and told me that the transmission is slipping a bit, he said that the rpm goes high but the vehicle doesn't speed accordingly, which I guess could explain my low HP on the dyno?

I called a transmission place and they told me they could make the transmission stronger for $2600

I wanted to know you guys point of view on what they suggested, possi and rebuilding transmission, your recommendations?
Wow.. I paid half of the first price to change from 3.55 to 4.56 with a master install kit. It was a hair over $600 out the door.
Those quotes are for rear end only, correct?
 
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Old Sep 14, 2013 | 02:22 PM
  #49  
widj's Avatar
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From: WA
Originally Posted by Randyl9ll
Wow.. I paid half of the first price to change from 3.55 to 4.56 with a master install kit. It was a hair over $600 out the door.
Those quotes are for rear end only, correct?
yes

I don't think this is about re gearing, adding the possi makes the diff stronger that's what they said..

is a possi good for accelerations? the mechanic told me that it locks the rear wheels so they spin evenly
 
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Old Apr 4, 2014 | 02:02 PM
  #50  
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From: Ruckersville VA
Let's see, Wideband Air/Fuel, Boost/Vacume and Fuel Pressure are the ones on the truck. Thank you for going above and beyond helping me get this truck finally set up like it was supposed to be to begin with. Can't wait to see what she does with the extra fuel letting off before 5 grand really sux. I'll try to get you as much info as I possibly can that's for sure. Again thanks for all the help.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2014 | 04:10 PM
  #51  
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You need to look at your MAF transfer function and fuel trims before even worrying about a/f ratio
 
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Old Apr 5, 2014 | 01:57 AM
  #52  
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From: Windsor,Ontario,Canada
Interesting thread. I have no negative comments about Mike's tune or service.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2014 | 11:07 PM
  #53  
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Crash you have never tuned a vehicle..you don't have a clue what it takes...I have tuned so I know.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 11:13 AM
  #54  
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Just curious - how are you going to keep the M5OD from grenading?
 
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 05:19 PM
  #55  
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like everything else with this project....$$$$$
 
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 06:29 PM
  #56  
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JMC
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About 3 weeks ago I just finished installing transmission number 8. I have now broken 3 transmissions in the same way. I strip teeth in 2nd gear. Both the intermediate shaft gear and the gear on the output shaft. If I hammer it in 1st it just spins. If I hammer it at 40mph in 2nd it spins and then hooks and teeth break. My next transmission will be one of these. http://rsgear.com/products/transmissions/tranzilla.aspx They make a 4x4 version that will take the abuse.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2014 | 12:04 AM
  #57  
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I think it's because of JMC's tune
 
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Old Apr 8, 2014 | 07:23 PM
  #58  
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Yup the tune is all screwed up.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2014 | 09:51 PM
  #59  
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Yup, a screwed up tune is going to blow up a manual tranny................
 
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Old Apr 8, 2014 | 11:36 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by JMC
Yup the tune is all screwed up.
Ok you read my post wrong..to much power is causing the destruction of the tranny
 
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