How Low is your F-150 post pic here
I just had a thought, if I remember correctly you have a 3/5 kit which means you have a lifting shackle, so a 2" drop shackle would lower you 3" from where you are now (or 8" drop total). Now pretty much all 2" drop shackles have a second hole for only 1" drop which would lower you 2" from where you are now (or for a total of 7" drop)
And yes I would recommend a notch for over 5" of rear drop, also not sure about the 09+ but the rear abs wire needs to be re routed so it is not above the diff
And yes I would recommend a notch for over 5" of rear drop, also not sure about the 09+ but the rear abs wire needs to be re routed so it is not above the diff
This is just a temporary fix anyway. I went and talked to my mod shop today about doing a real bag setup front and rear. I hope to be on air in all four corners by February.
I'm gonna do a parallel 4 link in the rear with a panhard par, keep my SP shocks, go to a sleeved bag instead of the standard ones I have now, and C-notch.
For the front I think I'm gonna go with an airstrut but I'm not positive because "SLW SVT" is not very happy with his for some reason. Once I can find out more on that I will make my mind up.
I'm gonna switch from my current 2gal tank and 150psi compressor to a 5 gal tank and a bigger compressor so I can run front and back off them. I'm not sure what I'm gonna use for height control at first but I eventually want to go with an accuair system. I will prob have to wait and do the accuair a couple months after I bag it so I have time to recoop some of that bread I'm gonna be spending on the setup. Prob just use a standard switch box and gauges until then.
I can't wait until I can finally control my height whenever I want. Layed out when parked and nice and low at ride height. Aired way up to get in and out of those ridiculously angled entrances to places. Ahh it sure will be nice. I don't even care about the hassle that comes with a bag setup. LOL. I think I'm gonna get a fox body stang to fix up a little too so I don't have to drive my truck ALL the time.
Last edited by Milt IV; Dec 1, 2011 at 01:51 AM.
Removing the overload spring wont lower your truck at all since it is now below the axle. the overload spring has no spring rate when unloaded so you wont reduce your spring rate any. And stock since the overload spring is above the axle it acts as a block, which is why when removed it will lower the truck by the thickness of the overload spring.
But sounds like you have a good plan
Are you going to do a step notch or just a c notch? You wouldn't need a huge notch but my plan for whenever I decide to bag my truck is that I will raise the bed floor so it is over the top of the notch, so I still have a stock looking bed. And i have a plan for how to make the tailgate open flush to the floor but thats my little secret. OK maybe it isn't, raise the tailgate hinge and chop up the inner side of the tailgate
But sounds like you have a good plan
Are you going to do a step notch or just a c notch? You wouldn't need a huge notch but my plan for whenever I decide to bag my truck is that I will raise the bed floor so it is over the top of the notch, so I still have a stock looking bed. And i have a plan for how to make the tailgate open flush to the floor but thats my little secret. OK maybe it isn't, raise the tailgate hinge and chop up the inner side of the tailgate
Last edited by azmidget91; Dec 1, 2011 at 10:52 AM.
don't do a pan hard bar! they're fine for static suspension vehicles but for bagged a watts link is what you need. I can't wait to throw my pan hard bar in the trash
X4 on a watts link over a panhard rod if you can do so easily.
A watts link setup keeps the axle centered between the frame while a panhard swings through an arc so minor side to side ....
.... but then all those years of Chevrolet using coil springs in the rear with two long trailing arms (called "truck arms" in NASCAR 'cause that's where they come from) all use panhard rods to locate the rear axle side to side just as an example. I have owned two such Chevrolet PUs, a '70 and a '72 and never noticed ill affect.
A watts link setup keeps the axle centered between the frame while a panhard swings through an arc so minor side to side ....
.... but then all those years of Chevrolet using coil springs in the rear with two long trailing arms (called "truck arms" in NASCAR 'cause that's where they come from) all use panhard rods to locate the rear axle side to side just as an example. I have owned two such Chevrolet PUs, a '70 and a '72 and never noticed ill affect.
.... but then all those years of Chevrolet using coil springs in the rear with two long trailing arms (called "truck arms" in NASCAR 'cause that's where they come from) all use panhard rods to locate the rear axle side to side just as an example. I have owned two such Chevrolet PUs, a '70 and a '72 and never noticed ill affect.
If setup properly you can minimize the side to side movement through travel with a panhard bar, but in an airbag setup where you have 7+" of travel it will still move and when you are tucking there is very little room for error
I will be switching to one of these at some point
http://www.dallashotrodparts.com/wattsthreechoices.html
http://www.dallashotrodparts.com/wattsthreechoices.html
Removing the overload spring wont lower your truck at all since it is now below the axle. the overload spring has no spring rate when unloaded so you wont reduce your spring rate any. And stock since the overload spring is above the axle it acts as a block, which is why when removed it will lower the truck by the thickness of the overload spring.
But sounds like you have a good plan
Are you going to do a step notch or just a c notch? You wouldn't need a huge notch but my plan for whenever I decide to bag my truck is that I will raise the bed floor so it is over the top of the notch, so I still have a stock looking bed. And i have a plan for how to make the tailgate open flush to the floor but thats my little secret. OK maybe it isn't, raise the tailgate hinge and chop up the inner side of the tailgate
But sounds like you have a good plan
Are you going to do a step notch or just a c notch? You wouldn't need a huge notch but my plan for whenever I decide to bag my truck is that I will raise the bed floor so it is over the top of the notch, so I still have a stock looking bed. And i have a plan for how to make the tailgate open flush to the floor but thats my little secret. OK maybe it isn't, raise the tailgate hinge and chop up the inner side of the tailgate

I am just going to do a c-notch at first. Once I get the setup complete and get an accuair then I am going to go the extra mile and do a step notch and stock raised bed floor. I hual my MX around so I don't want the raised bridge all the way across the bed. Plus stock raised floor just looks cleaner IMO.
I will be switching to one of these at some point
http://www.dallashotrodparts.com/wattsthreechoices.html
http://www.dallashotrodparts.com/wattsthreechoices.html
Ok this is good to know. Thanks. Can you elaborate on why you dislike your air struts so much?
Which one of those three is the best choice for us? I don't have a whole lot of knowledge as far as suspension is concerned and I have almost no experience with air ride other than my helper bags.
I don't know which watts link I will go with. I'll probably give that company a call whenever I get closer to that point and get there opinion.
My guess is the john deere that appears to not have an engine in it
As for the watts link, it all depends on how much room you have back there. You will most likely have to ditch the spare tire for any of them but SLW-SVT you dont have one anyways
As for the watts link, it all depends on how much room you have back there. You will most likely have to ditch the spare tire for any of them but SLW-SVT you dont have one anyways






