I have been looking at sounddeadeningmaterial.com and it looks like good stuff has anyone used this in there applications? Do i install it under the mat that is under the carpet or do i attatch it to that mat under the carpet? thanks

 

Anyone out there able to help me out with this???

 

This is what I used in a Stang..!

 

Do i install it under the mat that is under the carpet (stick it to the metal floor) or do i attatch it to that mat under the carpet?
my assumption is to the metal but im just trying to make sure.

 

You are correct..!

 

The sound deadening material has to be applied firmly to the metal surfaces of your floorpan. You need to be sure to stretch the material over the bumps and curves for it to do its job well.

I haven't used the stuff you are talking about; I bought some asphault based stuff from parts express.

Good luck!

 

I bought and installed a roll of Be-Quiet Extreme. I installed it before I ever installed my system, so I can't say that I know what it sounds like before and after in an F150...but I have noticed a big difference in sound quality and volume level in other vehicles I've installed it in. You'll have to pull off your door panels (and wether sheeting) and seats/carpet. Wipe off any surface dust or dirt. I highly recommend a heat gun for installing and sound dampening material. It makes it ten times more pliable. Have a roller too. It takes time, don't try to stick huge pieces on at once, its not worth it. Cut small pieces and stick them on one by one. If you don't want to do the entire truck, make sure you cover around all speaker areas and and others where vibration looks like it may be a problem.

 

You can spend a lot of money for a fancy name brand of material -- like Dynamat or even b-quiet -- or you can visit your local Home Depot and go to the roofing department and buy an entire roll of Owens-Corning Weatherguard product. It's an asphalt based metal product exactly like Dynamat, but sold at a tiny fraction of the cost. Just be sure to get the "non-grit" version. It applies in exactly the same way as dynamat. the results are the same. AND you can use it on vertical surfaces without worry that in extreme summer heat the bond is not going to loosen and slide south in a gooey mess -- unlike b-quiet product which does NOT recommend installations on vertical surfaces (b-quiet extreme may be an exception. i didn't query the manufact. rep about that). still, there's no magic to this kind of product. but marketing would make you think so. go for the weatherguard. my s'crew cab is QUIET.

 

Yep, what he said. Do it in smaller pieces, say 12x12 or less. Take your time. If you don't have enough for the whole pan, at least do the area around the speakers. Then the rear bulkhead. Then the floor.

While I applaud your suggestion, I disagree with this comment. We don't know for sure that it works the same. I used to formulate this stuff at a Tier-1 for OEM (including Ford) applications. When you pull up your carpet and see those black pads on the floorpan - that's the OEM stuff. We used environmental chambers, spectrum analyzers, and rheometers to properly tailor the glass transition points and mass loading for the most effective tan-delta (damping) at the proper temperature range. There is a lot of science in this stuff. The roofing material *may* work just as good as Dynamat, but it wasn't designed for this application. Until I see the data (which Dynamat does provide in the proper format) I can't believe it. Also, there is an OEM 'fogging' specification for maximum allowable outgassing of volatiles from the material. In roofing paper I'd bet that those volatiles are much higher (and more unhealthy) than those found in the sound damping material.

I don't like the fact that Dynamat, Dexter, RuVan, BeQuiet, and the others charge so much for something that costs less than a dollar a pound to make. (<$0.42c for materials) It would be cool if anyone working for these companies could get some samples and work out a little after-hours G-Project to determine if it is the same.

Anyone?

 

I don't need scientific annotation to first give me a clue. The result I've achieved speaks for itself. I've been in cabs plastered with Dynamat in the same places i've used the Owens-Corning product. Whether the product was "designed" for it or not, it works. There is no "may" about it. The cab is quiet. The door panels don't resonate at high volume levels. Road noise percolating up from the floors, side panels and rear wall are significantly quieter than before application. The "outgassing" (I suppose you mean to say there is more stink in the cab as the adhesive cures) you refer to is likely true. I simply (and unscientifically) left the windows down for a few days. After about a week, there is no remnant so far as I can tell -- but, then, my windows are always cracked anyway under my VentVisors. If having scientifically derived data makes you feel good before moving to utilize something in a new way, then I wish you well. In meantime, I've saved a bundle of money, have a significantly enhanced musical environment (I suppose that should be measured, too, just to ensure I'm actually hearing what I think I'm already hearing eh?) and I'll leave the data-gathering to others who derive tremendous pleasure from this pastime.

 

I wish I knew about the Dow Corning stuff about two weeks ago. I had my entire overhead and doors Dynamatted then (the back wall was done when my sub box was done). I spent lots of $$$ (approx $800) for the name brand stuff. I absolutely love the additional sound properties I gained. I would have loved to have saved some coin in the process. While I certainly don't want to be breathing toxins for extended periods, if the smell disapates, I say go for it. If you've got the $$, go for the tried and true. My $.02......................JB

 

hey i didn't see that stuff at the depot do you have any more info on it??

 

Depot or Lowes. It's found in the Roofing department. It's packaged in the traditional Pink and White box. It's a long rectangular box about 4ft long and 6in square. Don't know if all the Depot's are the same, but my store had them stored lengthwise in bins, so all you see is the side facing, so it looks a great deal smaller than you would expect it to be. I had to ask for assistance to find it, and visited a couple stores in my area before I found it. (One bozo simply shrugged and said "Never heard of it") Depot was out. The Lowe's had it. Again, be CERTAIN to ask for the Non-Grit version. The "Grit" version looks just like shingle material on a roll. And be prepared to work at it. The stuff is thick and tough. As Snoopy correctly pointed out, the stuff isn't intended for such a use. But it sure works like a champ.

 

Sundog,

Do you have to heat this stuff up with a heat gun like the old Dynamat? If so, I would imagine that it could take a while to apply this stuff.

The Dynamat Extreme is very pliable and easy to install. But it costs some major coin. I'll check the Lowe's near my place and see what it's all about. There are still a couple of spots I need to "quieten" up. If this stuff looks workable, I'll give it a try...JB

 

A heat gun would likely help your install. I didn't use one, but the stuff is major tough. I just cut the product into smaller, more workable sections. Took me a bit longer, but it was far less hassle. Not having worked with the "old" dynamat, I can't tell you if it's similar or not. Expect it to be a major project. But then, removing door panels, seats and carpeting is major anyway. You might also check mcmasters.com and check out their insulating batts for the overhead. other threads here have lauded their mastic compound as a sound deadener. I also purchased four cans of the Cascade brand spray from partsexpress.com for inside my doors. (and that's a great site for all the little odds and ends you'll use in speaker/HU install. check it out).