Great thanks! Appreciate your knowledge! Ok, here's a quick list of what I was thinking of getting at this point.

Front doors - Polk MM6501 6.5" Components - 125 W RMS continuous (had these in my last truck and was happy with them. Any others?)
Rear doors - Polk db571 5x7" 2-way - 60 W RMS continuous
Sub - Alpine SWR-T10 10" - 300-600 W - 4 ohm
Amp - Alpine PDX-V9 5-channel - 100 W RMS x 4 + 500 W RMS x 1 @ 2 or 4 ohm
Processor? - AudioControl LC6i or LC7i - have no idea yet on these. Just seen others using them.

Will this work or based on the power ratings for my speakers do I need more amp?

 

looks good one thing i would say to get also is a smd dd-1 and if you have the money a smd cc-1 a few shops have them for gain setting but alot dont. they will set you gains with a dmm witch is the worst way. the dd-1 will tell you where u headunit clips at and then you set your gain so it is safe up to say 41 out of 50. and the cc-1 will set the cross ove to exactly the frequencies you want instead of just guessing.

dd-1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SOARCaGU47s

cc-1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1LMf...feature=relmfu

 

Thanks! Those tools look pretty sweet. I'll definitely look into those. Especially the DD-1. So with my setup I listed, the power looks appropriate? One thing I've always been concerned with, is when a speaker says 125 W continuous, and my amp is rated at 100 W RMS, does that mean I'm underpowering the speaker or just about right? Thanks!

 

I have no idea what has happened to this page. The formatting is all whack!

 

yea i have no clue what happened to the page. lol. but if the amp is 100 rms and the sub is 125 rms you are underpowering but not bad. now if the sub was 600rms and you put 100 rms thats not very good. but yea those tools i posted are great also if you have friends with systems charge them a few bucks to set every thing right and not oh my gain is all the way up so im getting the most power.

 

Great thanks. Ok, so I looked on Crutchfield again for specs, the component speakers are rated for an RMS range of 25-125 W. So the amp being rated at 100W RMS per channel for those channels is acceptable right? I'm not actually "under powering"? And the sub is rated 300 - 600 W RMS and the amp is rated at 500 W RMS for that channel. Still good right? Sorry. Just trying to get my ducks in a row so I can make a Christmas list!

 

yep sounds good. for wiring i would do atleast a 2 gauge wire

 

Thank you sir! I read on Crutchfield that it recommends 4 gauge power and ground. So my question is, should I run a 0 or 2 gauge main power and ground into a distribution block to step down to the 4 gauge? This would allow greatest flexibility for the future I imagine (not really planning on making changes, but I guess you never know). Or should I just run the 4 gauge? Also, what size fuze should I use in all this? The one that goes in-line near the battery. Thanks!

 

you can get a 0 gauge wiring kit and it will have the fuse. that way you can put a bigger amp if you want to.

 

What I did is run 0 gauge all the way to the back of my truck with I think a 120 amp fuse up front (that's as big as I needed) and then in the back there's a fused distribution block with two 4 gauge outputs and each fuse in that matches the amp it goes to and the one up front (the 120) is the sum of those two fuses.

 

Thanks guys! Appreciate the input. I think I will go with a 0 gauge for the main power from the battery and then use a distribution block in the back. A few more questions if you don't mind.

1. Stepping up to the 0 gauge, did you do anything special to attach a ring terminal or anything on the ends? Do I need any special tools?

2. Where do you recommend buying the wiring kits?

3. Are y'all familiar at all with those AudioControl Processors? The LC6i or LC7i? They both seem to be the same thing. I've always replaced headunits in the past, so this is new to me.

4. Location of installation. Should I try to put the amp, the processor, crossovers, all on a board on the back wall together behind the seat? Or should I put the processor and amp near each other, crossovers in the door with the components? If I can fit it, should I try for under the front passenger seat or just keep on the back wall regardless? I always get nervous about under a seat because of feet from the backseat, but my daughter is 2 so it will be some time before her feet can reach. Thanks guys.

 

for the 0gauge you either need really good crimper or a propane torch to solder. i suggest solder. i have never used that processor so i cant say. if you have the room behind the seat for it all thats the best place. o build a amp rack for under the back seat.

 

For 0 gauge, the easiest thing you can do to make a good connection is to either buy a set-screw ring terminal or one of the ones where the wire loops through a little cylinder piece of metal, you fold it over, then screw it onto a ring terminal so it's completely locked in place. I've used both those kinds and never had a bad result, but they run anywhere from 5-10 dollars or so a piece.

The other way I've done it is crimp it in a ring terminal, run a bead of solder over it, then wrap where the wire and terminal meet in electrical tape to make sure it won't wiggle at all and possibly cause a dead spot.

And I'd keep the cross-overs as close to the door as possible, think of it this way, either run one set of speaker wire to each cross-over at the door, or have to run two sets from the front to the back on each side to the component and tweet.

 

if you dont have experience soldering big wire check this out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FEWu...eature=related

 

Thats awesome. Thanks guys. All the tips make sense. Now I just have to convince the wife that all this is "necessary"! haha. I appreciate y'alls time. Mono - could you tell whether my seat measurements were the same as yours?