Center Console box build 10"
#1
Center Console box build 10" (pic update 1)
I am building a sub box for my Kenwood 10" sub. It will be down fire box and completly replace the front center seat on my Screw. Here is what I have so far. The box dimensions are 22.5"x6"x12.5" and a volume of .9766 cubic feet. I know its on the small side for a 10" but Space is a premium for me.
The pictures are of the box upside down. I plan to cut holes in the "legs" for air movement.
UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Test fitting the box after assembled. I plan on mounting the arm rest to the box, rounding the corners, padding and covering it. Before any of that though I need to run the electronics and get some sound through it to see how it sounds. I plan on cutting holes in the legs on the side for more air movement.
UPDATE 2!!!!!!!!
I have got my AMP mounted and wires ran. I just screwed in a piece of 3/4" MDF to the back and mounted the amp to that.
The pictures are of the box upside down. I plan to cut holes in the "legs" for air movement.
UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Test fitting the box after assembled. I plan on mounting the arm rest to the box, rounding the corners, padding and covering it. Before any of that though I need to run the electronics and get some sound through it to see how it sounds. I plan on cutting holes in the legs on the side for more air movement.
UPDATE 2!!!!!!!!
I have got my AMP mounted and wires ran. I just screwed in a piece of 3/4" MDF to the back and mounted the amp to that.
Last edited by tim98; 03-09-2011 at 08:50 PM. Reason: Picture updates
#3
yes. Its not put together yet. Just sitting like a stack of playing cards.
I am wonder if I need to add bracing on the longer pieces.
***********UPDATE 3 **************************
Well here are some pics of the final product. My seams did not come out perfect but it does not look too bad. I also made a bracket to hold by top center console piece.
I am wonder if I need to add bracing on the longer pieces.
***********UPDATE 3 **************************
Well here are some pics of the final product. My seams did not come out perfect but it does not look too bad. I also made a bracket to hold by top center console piece.
Last edited by tim98; 03-26-2011 at 11:37 PM. Reason: photo updates
#5
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwest Ranches, FL
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you'll be fine!! just stuff it lightly with POLYFILL.... big manufacturers do this like kicker in their sub boxes they sell.
spray glue (any should do that comes in a rattle can) along the sides of the walls, then press it down, or jkust loosely fill it before installing your driver!!
SHould come out great bud!
spray glue (any should do that comes in a rattle can) along the sides of the walls, then press it down, or jkust loosely fill it before installing your driver!!
SHould come out great bud!
#7
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Southwest Ranches, FL
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yea somewhat, its the stuff used to stuff teddy bears to pillows, i am running two 12s shallow kickers and since my air space was on the low end i put one bag of polyfill in my box then screwed my drivers in, technically what it does is it makes the air waves from the sub take a little longer to hit the inner wall, and gives off a little deeper bass then "midbass". later on i made 2" "breather" holes on the side of the box and it drasticaly improved my output, and even a little quality....
if you wish to give it a try you can get some polyfill at walmart look in the pillow section
if you wish to give it a try you can get some polyfill at walmart look in the pillow section
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This is awesome! I love DIY projects like this. Make sure you countersink the screws and pre-drill the holes before glue.
As for polyfill, in a sealed box you should use approx. one pound of fill per cubic foot. You can get 1 pound bags of fill at arts/crafts stores like Michaels for like 3 bucks.
As for polyfill, in a sealed box you should use approx. one pound of fill per cubic foot. You can get 1 pound bags of fill at arts/crafts stores like Michaels for like 3 bucks.