Has anyone replaced the rear speakers in a 2010 F150 regular cab? I only see one pin. I'm afraid to just yank the trim off. Any help is appreciated.

 

Not that this helps at all, but the back panels are much easier to get off on my '07 reg cab... Hopefully someone can chime in with some more useful information for you.

Free bump to the top I guess... haha

 

I got a response in another forum. I have the speakers. I have the tools. I have my camera. I'm just waiting for the weekend.

 

That's what I'm talking about.


Feel free to do a write-up article!

 

Ok, here goes...

1. Remove the panel behind the door opener handle. Remove the bolt behind the panel.


I found this paint can opener to be the perfect tool. Just hook it and pull.




2. Remove the cap in the door handle pocket thing. Remove the bolt underneath.


3. Pry the window and lock control panel. Disconnect the electrics.


4. Remove two bolts along the bottom edge of the door trim. Pull up on the door trim. If you're doing the drivers side door and have power mirrors, disconnect the mirror adjustment **** electrics. The trim will still be held in by a cable that actuates the door latch. Rest the trim piece on a chair, or disconnect the cable.


5. Now that the speaker is accessible, remove four screws that hold the speaker in. Disconnect the connector behind it.


6. If you bought your speakers from Crutchfield.com, the include these factory compatible connectors. Attach them to the speaker and it's ready to hook up to the Ford connector.


7. Plug it in, do a quick test, then put everything back together. There was nothing special about reassembly.

 

On to the rear speakers... Remember this is for a regular cab.

1. Pry the door sill and remove it.


2. Pry off the cap to access the bolt holding the seat belt. Remove the bolt behind it. You'll need a Torx bit.


3. This thing that reads "AIRBAG", pry it off from the top. Remove the bolt behind it.


4. Remove the one and only trim pin.


5. At this point, you can start yanking the trim away from the body. Start at the top and work your way down until the speaker is accessible.


6. The speaker is attached to that spacer looking thing by four Torx screws. The screws are really soft so be careful not to strip the heads. There wasn't a lot of slack in the cable so don't just yank the speaker away from the spacer.


7. Fortunately, the wiring harness adds a little bit of cable length.


8. Alternatively, you can remove three bolts to detach the spacer & speaker together. This made it easier to replace the speaker since I did it outside the truck.


9. Give it a quick test and put everything back together again. That's all there is to it.

 

Did you use the same size speaking in both the front door and rear? It looks like a 5X7. I thought that the front was a 6X8?

 

Are using the stock head unit?
How much of a difference did the speakers make?
From the factory it seems as if there is a some type of crossover/bass blocker on the rear speakers in my 2013 XL 4x4

 

I don't know if the front doors will take a 6x8. The speakers I bought were listed at 5x7/6x8. I just accepted the data that Crutchfield.com had on their website. If you find out for sure, make sure you share that information here.

Yes, I kept the stock head unit. There was hardly a difference compared to the factory speakers. I was bummed. As you stated, I've read about a bass blocker kicking in at high volume levels in the factory head unit. My solution was to add an inline amp. The effect is I was sending more power to the speakers at low volume levels on the head unit. The difference was amazing. I posted the details on another forum. Feel free to google "Small 4-chan amp installed".