Box Build!
I'd be careful dividing your box. The biggest thing to worry about is to make sure the chambers displace the same air space. Your divider looks centered, and don't forget you have a big notch on the left side which takes away air space. Woofers sound different in different sized sealed enclosures, they can also handle different power loads.
Also with your box, I hope you have an extra inch and a half of vertical room. You're going to need it when you install the subs and realise you can't run your woofers on the floor, need maybe half an inch for the mounting depth, and you need to compensate for the excursion of the woofers along with air passage. Just some hopefully constructive criticism.
Also with your box, I hope you have an extra inch and a half of vertical room. You're going to need it when you install the subs and realise you can't run your woofers on the floor, need maybe half an inch for the mounting depth, and you need to compensate for the excursion of the woofers along with air passage. Just some hopefully constructive criticism.
I'd be careful dividing your box. The biggest thing to worry about is to make sure the chambers displace the same air space. Your divider looks centered, and don't forget you have a big notch on the left side which takes away air space. Woofers sound different in different sized sealed enclosures, they can also handle different power loads.
Also with your box, I hope you have an extra inch and a half of vertical room. You're going to need it when you install the subs and realise you can't run your woofers on the floor, need maybe half an inch for the mounting depth, and you need to compensate for the excursion of the woofers along with air passage. Just some hopefully constructive criticism.
Also with your box, I hope you have an extra inch and a half of vertical room. You're going to need it when you install the subs and realise you can't run your woofers on the floor, need maybe half an inch for the mounting depth, and you need to compensate for the excursion of the woofers along with air passage. Just some hopefully constructive criticism.
As for clearance, i have yet to put the legs on the box, but there is a clearance of 2.75" under the box for xmax. But this box is more of a experiment than anything, never really ran a down fire box. If this doesnt sound good, next idea will be a upfire that you have to slide out to fold the seat up.
Last edited by weazel; Jan 10, 2010 at 06:42 AM.
just to throw my .02, sound deadening on the floor would be something essential, that is if you dont have any on the floor in the back, that floor rattles horribly; atleast it did when i did my bass downfire, i have a screw
by the way i really like the craftsmenship of ur box, inspiring me for my next box build
by the way i really like the craftsmenship of ur box, inspiring me for my next box build
I would definitely make sure that both chambers have the same airspace. It's really easy to do even in irregular enclosures like this one. Simply figure the total inside airspace of your box (make sure to subtract the area of the divider as well) and divide that by two. Simply set the side without the notch to the airspace you figured and the other side will be correct.
I've ran subs in common airspaces, equally divided airspaces, and unequal airspaces. I've always hated how they sound in an unequal airspace. IMO either run them in a common chamber or equally divided chambers to get the best sound.
I've ran subs in common airspaces, equally divided airspaces, and unequal airspaces. I've always hated how they sound in an unequal airspace. IMO either run them in a common chamber or equally divided chambers to get the best sound.
I would definitely make sure that both chambers have the same airspace. It's really easy to do even in irregular enclosures like this one. Simply figure the total inside airspace of your box (make sure to subtract the area of the divider as well) and divide that by two. Simply set the side without the notch to the airspace you figured and the other side will be correct.
I've ran subs in common airspaces, equally divided airspaces, and unequal airspaces. I've always hated how they sound in an unequal airspace. IMO either run them in a common chamber or equally divided chambers to get the best sound.
I've ran subs in common airspaces, equally divided airspaces, and unequal airspaces. I've always hated how they sound in an unequal airspace. IMO either run them in a common chamber or equally divided chambers to get the best sound.
Like you said...... if it ever becomes to be a problem just drill some holes in the divider and you'll be set. I'm sure you'll need a brace inside anyways.
Regarding box volume and that pesky center mount.... I was actually considering this summer, before I totaled my truck, of removing the factory seat mounts and building a box that I could install the seats on to.... that way, I could create more space and lift as high as I needed.
There are some issues with that, however..... like you would need to do a lot of "load" testing on whatever box you built. The general rule of thumb is if you can stand on the box without it breaking, it's a good box. I'm a big guy... so if I can stand on a built box, it's probably just as good as the factory seat brackets.
There are some issues with that, however..... like you would need to do a lot of "load" testing on whatever box you built. The general rule of thumb is if you can stand on the box without it breaking, it's a good box. I'm a big guy... so if I can stand on a built box, it's probably just as good as the factory seat brackets.
Regarding box volume and that pesky center mount.... I was actually considering this summer, before I totaled my truck, of removing the factory seat mounts and building a box that I could install the seats on to.... that way, I could create more space and lift as high as I needed.
There are some issues with that, however..... like you would need to do a lot of "load" testing on whatever box you built. The general rule of thumb is if you can stand on the box without it breaking, it's a good box. I'm a big guy... so if I can stand on a built box, it's probably just as good as the factory seat brackets.
There are some issues with that, however..... like you would need to do a lot of "load" testing on whatever box you built. The general rule of thumb is if you can stand on the box without it breaking, it's a good box. I'm a big guy... so if I can stand on a built box, it's probably just as good as the factory seat brackets.

yea i can stand and jump on my box lol!
This is a neat build but going from one sealed box to another sealed box with similar airspace using the same drivers on the same power is going to net you no change in sound or output. Something more drastic is needed.
Power lol, lets say that its getting taken care of! lol
All that will do is decrease power handling and possibly add a couple dBs in the lowest octaves while losing a couple dBs in the upper subbass...let us know your results when you're done though.
i will be running and entirely different sub which requires more power any how. But i always believe more power is better. **** Id run 1000 watt amp with 150 rms speakers! All in the the tuning of the system.
Last edited by weazel; Jan 12, 2010 at 05:35 AM.



