Is running a sub rated at 500W rms off a 2 channel amp rated at 400W rms when bridged (4ohm stable) a bad idea? Worried the sub would be trying to draw more power then the amp could provide and eventually fry both the amp and speaker....is it better to have an amp with a higher RMS rating then the sub? Thanks guys.

 

As long as your resistances are correct, you will be fine. you want the amp to be at or slightly below the woofer's recomended RMS. Some higher quality woofers can handle more power then is recomended, but i wouldn't risk it.

 

Actually its at or above. This leads to the user to not look for more, instead of gains being jacked driving the amp into clipping.

I have had more woofers come back with damage due from less power than more. (within reason...)

 

Hey low_e_red, quick question for you. I was reading the under specs on your trucks setup and noticed the 200 sq ft of dynamat, in your opinion is it really needed or just a mod to improve overall SQ? I'm doing my set-up on Friday, custom mdf box, two kicker 12cvt shallow mounts, 4ch db drive speed series amp, RF cap and wire kit. I also have the Avic-Z2 and was wondering if you had any issues wiring in. Thanks in advance boss.

 

take the money you would waste on a cap and spend it on sound deadening

 

Styx, what's your opinion on the sound deadening? I don't play my music too awful loud, just curious. I see all the different companies out there claiming pretty much the same thing. Just looking for an honest opinion. As for the cap, already owned, just transferring it outta of the exlporer to the 150. (Sold box/subs to upgrade/fit in the F150). Where are the key places to lay the stuff? Thanks man

 

key place is your doors, after that the roof and back wall, then the floor firewall

 

Door Treatments,
Do lots of research in this department Simple door treatments are a must.Ive seen over a 6db gain in the last 2 vehicles I owned in just the midbass regionthats like doubling your power.I've sealed up my door's and am using 20sqft of butyl based mat per door.Not only is it alot quieter when there's no music it's louder and sounds better with more bass upfront and blends with the subs better when there is.Can't wait to do the whole truck. I just don't have the heart to tear it all apart yet:o maybe when it get's some more miles.

James

 

Its actually 4x.

 

Its needed almost as much as the capitol is to the US.

No major issues. Just pop over to avic411.com for the bypass instructions. Thats about all I have for the second. If you need anything email me and ill make sure you have my #. Given I have service in mexico...

 

If I go above , is 100-200W ok? Both sub and amp I'm looking at getting are Mb Quart

 

The ratings are estimates, on both the sub and the amp. Depending on the manufacturer, product line and even manufacturing differences between each item made, the estimates could be either above or below reality. I would suggest staying in the general range.

At the same time, it's a lot of common sense. You could run a 1000 watt amp on a 300 watt subwoofer if you're responsible about it and don't crank it up too much. But, you have to be aware there is a limit to the sub and the amp could blow the sub apart if you're not careful. I had a sub rated at 500 watts looked up to an amp that pushed almost 700... didn't blow the sub. I turned it up, see where the point the sub begins to top out, and throttle back a bit.

Right now I'm running 3 JL 10W6v2 subs rated at 400 watts each, but my amp is set to clip at 1600 watts. So I'm actually pushing 530 watts to each sub. Why? Because they are JL subs, and JL tends to make good products and underrates them, so I'm confident I can push the envelope a little bit.

No matter what sub or amp you buy, your subwoofer (all subs, all speakers as a matter of fact) require a break-in time, most manufacturers recommend 20-30 hours of play time. So if your amp is a little more powerful than the sub and you're thinking about pushing it a bit more, let the sub break in a bit first. Don't go all out seeing what will happen right out of the box.

 

Youll want the amp to be at or above the recommended RMS rating of the subwoofer. Underusing and overpowered amp is much, MUCH better than cranking the gain on an underpowered amp. In addition, the higher the watts the less distortion youll see from the amp, lending to better quality and less chance of damage to the sub.

 

Kuruption, hen23.....thanks for the info, it most defentily helps! I'm aware of slowly breaking in the sub and finding the point where it starts to distort when I crank it up...especially when I'm spending the money on this stuff.
I like JL's and have heard nothing but good about them...for some reason I've just become partial to MB. I've used their components and love them and am willing to give their subs and amps a shot. Everything I've found is decently priced too...I've been looking at their Premium or Reference series.
Anyone have any opinions or experience with these? Thanks again guys!!