The Audio B.S. Thread
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From: Chesterfield,Va.
Originally Posted by kuruption
Going completely active seems like a great thing to do to get the most flexibility of your system, but of course it's more expensive, especially if you're using good components.
However, I do not know the full benefit of using a complete active system. Most good component sets have good sound engineers behind them that really work on the math and listen to the passive crossovers they build to get the most out of the drivers. In fact, most of the money spent on a good 3-way component system (or even a 2-way system) is on the engineering time. So why re-invent the wheel?
Instead of going active and spending all this money on amps, why not spend the money on a better set of components with the amp you already have? Or get a better amp?
I'm going as far as I am willing to go by using the bi-amp feature of my Morel Elate 3-ways and running a 4 channel amp to it... but the passive x-over will still handle the x-over points, at most I can control the gain difference between the midbass and highs.
However, I do not know the full benefit of using a complete active system. Most good component sets have good sound engineers behind them that really work on the math and listen to the passive crossovers they build to get the most out of the drivers. In fact, most of the money spent on a good 3-way component system (or even a 2-way system) is on the engineering time. So why re-invent the wheel?
Instead of going active and spending all this money on amps, why not spend the money on a better set of components with the amp you already have? Or get a better amp?
I'm going as far as I am willing to go by using the bi-amp feature of my Morel Elate 3-ways and running a 4 channel amp to it... but the passive x-over will still handle the x-over points, at most I can control the gain difference between the midbass and highs.
My Rainbow Germs are bi-amped now from a Eclipse XA4000, I'm just trying to bandpass a set of IDQ6 midbass in my rear doors to blend bass to my SI BM 12 sub running on a Eclipse XA5000, as to buying better components or amps, its not needed, my audio system is already top notch equipment.... look in my gallery under Eclipse.. don't get me wrong, anything can be upgraded, but not really needed at this point, just need a little crossover and tuning work...
Last edited by F150Truck'in; Oct 30, 2007 at 06:44 PM.
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From: Chesterfield,Va.
I have seen this after looking at them, I've never used any... they would do the job, I can get 200Hz, 500Hz 12 db slope LP... I was looking at crossover around 300Hz, but not avalable in FMod... 500Hz would do the job, just going to put me in the mid range area... but thats fine...
http://cgi.ebay.com/CROSSOVER-Harris...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/CROSSOVER-Harris...QQcmdZViewItem
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From: Chester County, PA
Originally Posted by F150Truck'in
My Rainbow Germs are bi-amped now from a Eclipse XA4000, I'm just trying to bandpass a set of IDQ6 midbass in my rear doors to blend bass to my SI BM 12 sub running on a Eclipse XA5000, as to buying better components or amps, its not needed, my audio system is already top notch equipment.... look in my gallery under Eclipse.. don't get me wrong, anything can be upgraded, but not really needed at this point, just need a little crossover and tuning work...
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From: Nebraska
Just because the crossover point on the passive xovers are what the designers figured would work best and thought sounded best, doesnt mean there isnt room to tweek stuff a little more withing a drivers usable frequency range and cross them over at a point and slope you find more desirable.
The passive xover is just one more thing to break down the signal besides...
I love to tinker with stuff myself too, so I dont have any problem 'reinventing the wheel'
As far as sound quality it blows the same setup with passive crossovers out of the water in my application anywho.
The passive xover is just one more thing to break down the signal besides...
I love to tinker with stuff myself too, so I dont have any problem 'reinventing the wheel'
As far as sound quality it blows the same setup with passive crossovers out of the water in my application anywho.
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From: Chesterfield,Va.
F-Mods, cheapest I can find is at parts express..
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...Number=266-260
I going to try out the 500Hz LP 12db slope...
That should do the job, HU is set at 80Hz 12db slope, so that would give me a 80Hz to 500Hz 12 db slope bandpass on my rear midbass with 150w RMS CH to give them a little kick...
Hell, I may have just reinvented the wheel
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...Number=266-260
I going to try out the 500Hz LP 12db slope...
That should do the job, HU is set at 80Hz 12db slope, so that would give me a 80Hz to 500Hz 12 db slope bandpass on my rear midbass with 150w RMS CH to give them a little kick...
Hell, I may have just reinvented the wheel
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From: my apartment
Originally Posted by F150Truck'in
Oh, I agree.. 500Hz is above where I want to be, but 200Hz is too low and they only make these FMods at 200Hz, 500Hz at the range i'm looking at..
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From: Oklahoma
Originally Posted by F150Truck'in
Cool, Carputers are great and fun, but never seen one with the sound quility of a good HU... I have looked at a few designs for my truck and looking into puting a motorised screen in place of the pop out drink holder in the dash..
never got any parts or anything, just looked....
6610 is a great HU, I have a 6600...
never got any parts or anything, just looked....
6610 is a great HU, I have a 6600...
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From: Chesterfield,Va.
Originally Posted by styxnpicks
200 is good for midbass, the lower the better, when I had dedicated midbass in the stealth I bandpassed it from 80-150
I just want some more midbass to enhance the front stage and blend with the sub, I don't want to localize the rear midbass to a point that I can set in the seat and point the rear mids out...
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From: Chesterfield,Va.
Originally Posted by dconder
How do you like the 6600? I can save a bundle on one of those over a 6610. Anything you do not like? The things I need are good iPod and Sirius support, a/v inputs and outputs.
I think the 7" screen is nice, but not worth the added cost over a 6600 6 1/2" screen....
The only HU I would consider replacing it with is a alpine 200 or 205 and then just for the 701 control.. but I still think Eclipse has better video quility and a friend of mind said the that my 6600 has better picture on it playing DVDs that his 200 does....
You can see the manuals here for the 6600 and 6610 to compare the two....
http://www.eclipse-web.com/download/manual/index.html
Last edited by F150Truck'in; Oct 31, 2007 at 07:10 PM.