The Audio B.S. Thread
Originally Posted by Bartak1
Heyo.
Nothing new here. Put a classified up to see if anyone has two or three good 10's that I could trade the Mags for...not sure how I made these things fit at all...
Maybe tomorrow Ill rip the amps out and see if I can come up with something that will run all the way across the back of the cab though.
I have a tendency to tinker with chit on the HU everytime I drive, but I think I finally found the sweet spot for everything. Well, I havent changed any settings on the HU for at least a week
After 5 months I think Im finally dialed in
Nothing new here. Put a classified up to see if anyone has two or three good 10's that I could trade the Mags for...not sure how I made these things fit at all...
Maybe tomorrow Ill rip the amps out and see if I can come up with something that will run all the way across the back of the cab though.
I have a tendency to tinker with chit on the HU everytime I drive, but I think I finally found the sweet spot for everything. Well, I havent changed any settings on the HU for at least a week
After 5 months I think Im finally dialed in
only 10" I have laying around to be sold is a ED 11Kv.2 D2....
A whole week, thats a record for you...
Originally Posted by F150Truck'in
it never ends, always some to tinker with
only 10" I have laying around to be sold is a ED 11Kv.2 D2....
A whole week, thats a record for you...
only 10" I have laying around to be sold is a ED 11Kv.2 D2....
A whole week, thats a record for you...

I know it.
I just came up with a box that would work pretty good for both Mags, I would have to re-do my whole amp mounting and find a place to put them though. I think I would probably end up with more usable space for all my junk though...
Maybe Ill try that.
If not, I dont know what to try for 10's. Theres to many
SI BMs, ID IDMaxs-IDQs, OZ Mes, RE SEs, as anti Fi as I am I thought maybe some Fi Qs even, RLis, Dayton HOs even, Diamond D6 or D9, JL w6, older Eclipse alums....a few that have crossed my mind.
Not sure if some of those would give me the SQ I want, and some Im not sure about output I would want...
I know some of those arent in the same class either, but if I went with a little cheaper sub that still had good SQ and build quality, then I could afford to go with a trio of them, assuming I could get enough airspace for them.
Who knows.
Alright guys... I'm finally getting around to building my box for a single 10.. It's going to be a ported box, before getting around being on this site, I didn't think it'd matter about tuning a box to the Hz... so really I just wanna know the basics of tuning, my field of expertise has been alarms (lately), I rarely install full systems anymore so I never got to mess with all the fine points
so any info
thanks
so any info
I can't help you on a ported box, never built one myself, i've always built sealed boxes... Some one will chime in...
I do know that ported usely takes around 2 to 3 times the air space, so make sure you can get that size box in your truck, that the main reason to go sealed on my installs...
I do know that ported usely takes around 2 to 3 times the air space, so make sure you can get that size box in your truck, that the main reason to go sealed on my installs...
BASICLLY, higher tuned boxes (35ish-45ish Hz) are more for output and you will generally see a peak in output around your tuning frequency. Ported boxes dont play much under their tuned frequency though, so say you tuned a box to around 40 Hz and set your subsonic filter at 30Hz, you would be lacking on your low end. Higher tuned boxes are a no no if you really want sound quality.
Lower tuned boxes, under 35 or so Hz, usually provide a flatter frequency response. Also allows you to get lower. Mucho nicer for a SQ type install. My last ported box was tuned to 29Hz.
33 Hz is usually a good mix of both.
Another thing to consider when your deciding on a tuning frequency is the actual subwoofer your going to be using. A lot of times its hard to beat the manufacturers recommended boxes and tuning frequency, but, there are always 'but's and 'what if's to that
Very basic generalization anywho.
Lower tuned boxes, under 35 or so Hz, usually provide a flatter frequency response. Also allows you to get lower. Mucho nicer for a SQ type install. My last ported box was tuned to 29Hz.
33 Hz is usually a good mix of both.
Another thing to consider when your deciding on a tuning frequency is the actual subwoofer your going to be using. A lot of times its hard to beat the manufacturers recommended boxes and tuning frequency, but, there are always 'but's and 'what if's to that

Very basic generalization anywho.
Originally Posted by Bartak1
BASICLLY, higher tuned boxes (35ish-45ish Hz) are more for output and you will generally see a peak in output around your tuning frequency. Ported boxes dont play much under their tuned frequency though, so say you tuned a box to around 40 Hz and set your subsonic filter at 30Hz, you would be lacking on your low end. Higher tuned boxes are a no no if you really want sound quality.
Lower tuned boxes, under 35 or so Hz, usually provide a flatter frequency response. Also allows you to get lower. Mucho nicer for a SQ type install. My last ported box was tuned to 29Hz.
33 Hz is usually a good mix of both.
Another thing to consider when your deciding on a tuning frequency is the actual subwoofer your going to be using. A lot of times its hard to beat the manufacturers recommended boxes and tuning frequency, but, there are always 'but's and 'what if's to that
Very basic generalization anywho.
Lower tuned boxes, under 35 or so Hz, usually provide a flatter frequency response. Also allows you to get lower. Mucho nicer for a SQ type install. My last ported box was tuned to 29Hz.
33 Hz is usually a good mix of both.
Another thing to consider when your deciding on a tuning frequency is the actual subwoofer your going to be using. A lot of times its hard to beat the manufacturers recommended boxes and tuning frequency, but, there are always 'but's and 'what if's to that

Very basic generalization anywho.
oh and the box is a center console so I got enough space
Originally Posted by DRJ
Good pointers.. so the box itself isn't built "tuned", you tune it with the X-over on the amp?
oh and the box is a center console so I got enough space
Originally Posted by DRJ
Good pointers.. so the box itself isn't built "tuned", you tune it with the X-over on the amp?
oh and the box is a center console so I got enough space
oh and the box is a center console so I got enough space
Originally Posted by DRJ
Good pointers.. so the box itself isn't built "tuned", you tune it with the X-over on the amp?
No, the actual tuning of the box is determined by port area (say your port is 4" x 6", then you have 24" of port area) and port length.
The amp Xovers have nothing to do with the box tuning, your lowpass filter on the amp still acts the same, by filtering out anything over 75Hz or whereever you have it set.
Youll want a SUBSONIC filter though (some amps might not have this), which is basically a highpass filter. It's set a little below your boxes tuning frequency (like 5-10Hz) and starts to roll off the bass below that point so it doesnt get to your sub. If a sub is played much lower than the boxes tuning frequency it is in you'll most likely end up with undesirable sound, diminished output, and lots of excursion if your pushing the sub hard, which can end up physically damaging your sub (like the VC former smashing into your backplate)
Originally Posted by Bartak1
No, the actual tuning of the box is determined by port area (say your port is 4" x 6", then you have 24" of port area) and port length.
The amp Xovers have nothing to do with the box tuning, your lowpass filter on the amp still acts the same, by filtering out anything over 75Hz or whereever you have it set.
Youll want a SUBSONIC filter though (some amps might not have this), which is basically a highpass filter. It's set a little below your boxes tuning frequency (like 5-10Hz) and starts to roll off the bass below that point so it doesnt get to your sub. If a sub is played much lower than the boxes tuning frequency it is in you'll most likely end up with undesirable sound, diminished output, and lots of excursion if your pushing the sub hard, which can end up physically damaging your sub (like the VC former smashing into your backplate)
The amp Xovers have nothing to do with the box tuning, your lowpass filter on the amp still acts the same, by filtering out anything over 75Hz or whereever you have it set.
Youll want a SUBSONIC filter though (some amps might not have this), which is basically a highpass filter. It's set a little below your boxes tuning frequency (like 5-10Hz) and starts to roll off the bass below that point so it doesnt get to your sub. If a sub is played much lower than the boxes tuning frequency it is in you'll most likely end up with undesirable sound, diminished output, and lots of excursion if your pushing the sub hard, which can end up physically damaging your sub (like the VC former smashing into your backplate)
it's all starting to piece together
Well Guys,
Hunting season is over... now on to the next priority. installing my upgrade for the third time..
My Batcap 800 got here Sat... so it all almost here now.. stil waiting on custom MDF baffles, but I'm sure I'll need a few more thing along the way.. power cable rings, maybe another Distro block and ground block... I've got 4 amps, active processor and a 1500W power inverter to hook up. I've still got to lay it all out on paper.
I did manage to mod the Cal25 pods to fit a Cal26 tweeter, done one today and compared the Cal25 to the Cal26... the cal26's are for sure more detailed tweeter and thats still running though the Germs XOver.. should be even better after going though the active processor and 10 or so hrs on them.
Hunting season is over... now on to the next priority. installing my upgrade for the third time..
My Batcap 800 got here Sat... so it all almost here now.. stil waiting on custom MDF baffles, but I'm sure I'll need a few more thing along the way.. power cable rings, maybe another Distro block and ground block... I've got 4 amps, active processor and a 1500W power inverter to hook up. I've still got to lay it all out on paper.
I did manage to mod the Cal25 pods to fit a Cal26 tweeter, done one today and compared the Cal25 to the Cal26... the cal26's are for sure more detailed tweeter and thats still running though the Germs XOver.. should be even better after going though the active processor and 10 or so hrs on them.
Last edited by F150Truck'in; Jan 6, 2008 at 09:12 PM.
Originally Posted by Jwool15
have not actually. After switching to the kenwood 6019 I have sworn alpine off for good
http://www.floridaspl.com/Alpine_2008.pdf
They are supposed to show the 505 at CES this week.


