hey guys i am about to take my first crack at building a box and let me say this right now I HATE wood give me something i cut grind and weld and i am happy (i think i have an allergy to saw dust)lol anyway this is not a fancy box by any way shape or form its for my daughter for the trunk of her sunbird its just a simple rectangular box out of 3/4" mdf to replace the pos box she has this box will get the 2 12s that are comeing out of her old box i spent a few nights on the net searching for driver specs but can find nothing specifically about this particular speaker so i just looked at specs for speakers like this and averaged a bunch of stuff out if i am off by .1 or.2 of a cubic foot its no biggie i am pretty sure i can build a tighter stronger box than that flimsy leaking pos she presently has even with my limited talent for wood working this is a sealed box i understand that is harder for me to screw up a sealed box than a ported one anyway here are my questions the box is divided in the middle demensions are 15x 13x 37 1/2 1) construction adhesive or gorilla glue i thought the construction adhesive might fill in gaps a bit better helping to keep the box air tight i am going to seal the box with caulking anyway question 2) and actually the one i am most curious about what kind of spacing between the screws i am using 2" coarse dry wall screws 2" 3" 4" ? i would be thankfull for any advice you guys could give especially you guys that have a few boxes under your belt

 

Wow....what???

Lol.

Well, first off, what kind of subs are these, and what model? Your going to want actual specs from the manufacturer, not 'averages' of 'subs like them'.

I use Liquid Nails. Tough sh*t. Ive never used Gorilla Glue in my like, Im not sure if that would work or not.
Get glue over every part of every joint. You really dont need a lot of screws. Its not the screws that hold it together really, its more the glue. Screws hold the box together while the glue is drying more than anything. But like 8ish inches or so. Or else if you dont want screws just use a bunch of clamps till its dry.
ASSUMING you do a good job glueing. Otherwise you might want screws

Caulk every corner up good, let it dry, and your good.

 

I used 2" x10 dry wall screws, liquid nails, and wood glue... turned out better than I thought anyways. Im propablly puttting in the avalanche tommorow finally. Anyways the screws are only necessary for letting the wood glue dry, then you seal it up with liquid nails. Also watch out because the corners of the wood will flake and chip, so you might want to pay attention to all corner peices, and seal them up nice and tight.

 

bartak 1 these speakers are called crunch nobody seems to have heard of them they don,t seem to be very hi end and then of course this is a lobuck project i cant find any part or model number on them what happened to her other box was that she dropped it on one corner when she was taking it out to clean her trunk its kind of shook if you know what i mean it now buzzes and vibrates like crazy imagine that but it was of very flimsy construction 1/2 " chip board i think and the box also had tweeters mtded in it which i am going to pitch should the speakers be mtded towards the middle of the box or out towards the ends

for now i am just going to use these cheap speakers box volume works out to 1.652 cubic feet per side which well within the parameters listed for many of the universal type sealed boxes mean't for 12 " subs that you can buy from the retail stores

 

Doesnt matter.

I guess if you cant find anything about the speakers it is a hit or miss deal, so 1.65 cu ft. sound good

 

Keeping the subs together works better than far apart, and if you are using a bridged amp on both subs it doesn't/shouldn't be separated. I prefer plain old elmers wood glue and like Bartak1 said just cover everything and predrilling the screws keeps them from splitting the wood especially close to the edge.

 

ok just a quick update started working on the box when i got home from work last night had pretty much the main body finished last night bartak1 i lied them speakers are not called crunch but rather thump same crap any way finshed machining out the front baffle early this morning and finished every thing up about 3 hours ago what can i say oh my god becky! i can not believe the difference in sound this box makes i mean i realize they will not sound like the stuff you guys put together but then understand i have just about zip into this project more my time than anything and gives me something to practise on i now also understand why the other box was such a pos it was built out of 3/8" chip board i don't understand how they got to stay together anyway to say that i am pleased with the results is an understatement ican now only imagine how much better it would sound with better quality speakers but then that was not the object of the exercize i was curious to see how much the quality and construction of an enclosure affects a given speakers sound thanks for the tips guys i am using an old school hafler MA1 2 channel amp to power these subs up
oh yea nothinbutaford i looked at your gallery that is some pretty nice stuff actual chamber volume per side ended up at 1.479 cu. ft. and they were 12" speakers

 

Congrats, sounds like it turned out pretty good. A lot of people overlook the box and install, but they are really some of the main factors to a good stereo, as you can see

 

I agree most people don't take the box quality into acount when thinking about bass, just the subs. I had a customer a while back that lived down the street from the shop and came in all the time even before he had a car, all he wanted was a system in his car. His parents gave him a set of walmart Urban Audio 12" subs for his birthday (about $20 ea). He couldn't afford to get anything else but an amp and a box. I designed a box on termpro for him and built it. Nobody could believe how good those cheap subs sounded!! Sounds like you got a similar story 2088bob