The bushing on my right radius arm is shot and I am getting some noises when I hit holes or bumps in the road. The bushing is where the arm joins to the frame. It appears that the whole arm must be removed in order to replace this bushing. Is this true? Is the "king pin" the bolt that holds this arm in place? Would it be easier for me to have my vasectomy undone than it would be to do this job?

 

Some times you only need the rear bushing replaced, if so, thats easy.
But, you probably need the forward and rear bushings done(both sides). I have heard of people useing ropes/straps/ cables to pull/jerk the axle/ beam forward, pulling the radius arm from its rear mount (once un-nutted) while leaving the front part bolted up. Only thing is I have never seen this done so I can't say whether or not its a good thing to do, or safe thing to do. If and when mine go, I will be trying this method. I have personally only replaced the back bushing(on older Exploder), never both.

Another thing to concider is what if the rear of the arm breaks off when you are trying to remove that big *** nut? You might want to call some parts stores to see before hand if they have a radius arm before you begin, just to be safe.

But ya, you can change those bushings. Use rust penatrent.

 

There IS an easy way to change those. Grind those rivits off that hold that bracket to the frame. (you could also use an air chisel) When you put it back together use Grade 8 bolts instead of rivits. The last set that I put in took less than hour when using that method.
Usually the pass. side is WAY worse than the drivers side. The heat from the cat. converter isnt very good on them.
GOOD LUCK

 

Good fix method 302guy. I've also heard of a couple people saying they have had the rivets loosen and cause some noise and clunking, so they did the same fix with the bolts.

 

If cutting frame brackets is not to your pleasure, you can still remove the bushings without removing the entire arm. I removed the shock, spring and torsion bar. The removed the major 1 1/8" nut holding the arm on the bracket. Using a long 1.250" pipe wedged into the front of the arm. I pulled it forward enough to remove it from the bracket (If you were blessed with your Mom's arms this my be tough). Replaced the bushings and pried it back into the bracket.
If you are feeling froggy, you can remove the remaining bolt that holds the radius arm to the "I" beam. It is a bear to remove. I have removed them before for another reason and I had to heat with a propane torch and quench with PB Blaster or WD40. This process will help you remove the vertical bolt and pull the arm off all of the way.

What ever your method, use the new urethane bushings and get a front end alignment from a shop that knows what they are doing. And replace both... It will through your steering off by replacing only one.

 

Hey I replaced both of my radius arm bushing about a year ago on my 4x2...it was pretty simple and I didn't have to remove the brackets. I just unbolted the radius arm(big nut at the end, then jacked the truck up, got a pry bar and started cursing like a pirot untill the arm popped out of the bracket...popped the new bushing in then I used a chain crank(I think that's what it's called) I attached the chain to the I-beam and to the rear suspension and started cranking it back and the arm just popped back in.Pop the bolt back on and vwalla! took about 1 hour per side.

 

Wow, some really good ideas!

 

I just replaced my radius arm bushing myself. 302 does have it right grinding the rivets or cutting them off with a air chisel. I used both and do use grade 8 bolts to replace them. The passenger side is tough, but I used a 4 ton piston that is part of a body repair kit. Installing it between the top of the radius arm and the cab weld line. These is to counteract the upward push of the arm. On the drivers side you can just use a car jack to counteract the downward push of the arm. It took me a while to get it all done, but I have never worked on a trucks suspension before. I used Moog replacement parts, which I normally like, but I did not use the "spacer (I forgot what it is called)". The original one was made out nylon, I think. The new one was some cheap plastic which cracked in my hand just installing the rubber bushing use a rubber mallet. Good luck.

 

Hey tim, I'm 16 and just did this exact job on my 96 f-150. I parked it in the shop and ran a chain from the arm to a come-a-long that was hooked to a big oak tree out side, jacked it up, undid the nut in the back and went to crankning on the come-a-long. Take all the old rubber off, put on the new bushings, line it up and release the come-a-long. As easy as that, took about 30 minutes with me and my dad doing it. Hope this helps.

Corey