To those who offroad/lift their pre 97's
Originally Posted by booba5185
Kick-*** FSB BTW.

I would of got 9" lift with 6" rcx and a 3" body, but will probably run just the 6" lift, and wouldn't run bigger then 37's, and will settle for 35's (buying on craigslist many more 35's to choose from)
i'd like to get a wide stance so I keep stable in rough spots on the trail and a 6" and 35's will still be good on the road, eventually I may sell my 2000 so this beater may become a temporary dd so I dont plan on making this ridiculously big
i'd like to get a wide stance so I keep stable in rough spots on the trail and a 6" and 35's will still be good on the road, eventually I may sell my 2000 so this beater may become a temporary dd so I dont plan on making this ridiculously big
would you go with 4:56's if you did it over? hows your mpgs? im getting 12mpg w/ 302 e4od 3:55 gears and 33s.. might go with 35s in the future
not trying to thread jack or turn this into a show off your rig thread, but wanted to go ahead and put updates of how my truck looks with 4" rough country, and the modifications ive done to it yesterday/today
befor

after cutting to make more room for tires to get onto bigger rocks

after sanding the chrome, priming twice with black primer, sanded for rough adheasive, then 4 layers of rhino liner

disregard how the alignment looks, on level ground its all good, my driveway is garbage, not at all level
to come yet.... 6" holes for lights just inside frame rails (need shallow lights due to mounting brackets, cut out license plate mount area to make room for the winch to be shoved behind the bumper
befor

after cutting to make more room for tires to get onto bigger rocks

after sanding the chrome, priming twice with black primer, sanded for rough adheasive, then 4 layers of rhino liner

disregard how the alignment looks, on level ground its all good, my driveway is garbage, not at all level
to come yet.... 6" holes for lights just inside frame rails (need shallow lights due to mounting brackets, cut out license plate mount area to make room for the winch to be shoved behind the bumper
Last edited by nviime; Apr 11, 2011 at 08:42 PM.
I don't think you would have a problem with tipping a 6" and 35's
However if you want flex lose the sway bars first and look into different springs if you can afford it. I read an article saying that the lift kits springs don't allow hardly any flex compared to what is actually possible with the ttb.
Also for a wider stance the width of your rims will help a lot. Wider rims with less backspacing may be hard on the ball joints and such but a 12" wide rim with 4"BS will make your stance a heck of a lot wider than a 9" with 4.5BS. Just some food for thought.
However if you want flex lose the sway bars first and look into different springs if you can afford it. I read an article saying that the lift kits springs don't allow hardly any flex compared to what is actually possible with the ttb.
Also for a wider stance the width of your rims will help a lot. Wider rims with less backspacing may be hard on the ball joints and such but a 12" wide rim with 4"BS will make your stance a heck of a lot wider than a 9" with 4.5BS. Just some food for thought.
Last edited by russo2; Apr 11, 2011 at 10:27 PM.
I don't think you would have a problem with tipping a 6" and 35's
However if you want flex lose the sway bars first and look into different springs if you can afford it. I read an article saying that the lift kits springs don't allow hardly any flex compared to what is actually possible with the ttb.
Also for a wider stance the width of your rims will help a lot. Wider rims with less backspacing may be hard on the ball joints and such but a 12" wide rim with 4"BS will make your stance a heck of a lot wider than a 9" with 4.5BS. Just some food for thought.
However if you want flex lose the sway bars first and look into different springs if you can afford it. I read an article saying that the lift kits springs don't allow hardly any flex compared to what is actually possible with the ttb.
Also for a wider stance the width of your rims will help a lot. Wider rims with less backspacing may be hard on the ball joints and such but a 12" wide rim with 4"BS will make your stance a heck of a lot wider than a 9" with 4.5BS. Just some food for thought.
Aye, i havent ever had sway bars on my f150, my flex is so so.... i could definitely use some Deaver springs in the rear, and superflex coils up front...
Last edited by nviime; Apr 11, 2011 at 10:45 PM.
http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=9287
Good read for anyone lifting a TTB.
How does your truck do on road without sway bars? I was thinking about eliminating mine once I'm done with the lift, but my truck sees a lot of road use and soon to be some highway.
Good read for anyone lifting a TTB.
How does your truck do on road without sway bars? I was thinking about eliminating mine once I'm done with the lift, but my truck sees a lot of road use and soon to be some highway.
http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=9287
Good read for anyone lifting a TTB.
How does your truck do on road without sway bars? I was thinking about eliminating mine once I'm done with the lift, but my truck sees a lot of road use and soon to be some highway.
Good read for anyone lifting a TTB.
How does your truck do on road without sway bars? I was thinking about eliminating mine once I'm done with the lift, but my truck sees a lot of road use and soon to be some highway.
i also need lockers, and gears as im still running stock 3.55's on the 33's...wanna go 4.56, and im thinkin rather then lockers, ill prob do a double xfer case setup for 4:1 ratio, i think, but im not sure, but i think that may benefit me more offroad...
I hear ya on the traction bars, being a shortbed with mud terrains and a 5 speed let alone the torque of the inline six, I could roast the tires off my truck before now it hops like a damn bunny rabbit with bigger tires.
I was looking at traction bars and they are just over priced, I'm gunna end up making my own.
I was looking at traction bars and they are just over priced, I'm gunna end up making my own.
I hear ya on the traction bars, being a shortbed with mud terrains and a 5 speed let alone the torque of the inline six, I could roast the tires off my truck before now it hops like a damn bunny rabbit with bigger tires.
I was looking at traction bars and they are just over priced, I'm gunna end up making my own.
I was looking at traction bars and they are just over priced, I'm gunna end up making my own.
Lockers for sure.
But lockers and gears would be best. Look into lunchbox lockers if you don't wheel super hard.
4.30's for 33's and 4.56 for 35's. Not sure how a double tc would work for ya.
I have some good reads on doing a gear swap and had some nice videos of detroit true tracs and such.
But lockers and gears would be best. Look into lunchbox lockers if you don't wheel super hard.
4.30's for 33's and 4.56 for 35's. Not sure how a double tc would work for ya.
I have some good reads on doing a gear swap and had some nice videos of detroit true tracs and such.
Lockers for sure.
But lockers and gears would be best. Look into lunchbox lockers if you don't wheel super hard.
4.30's for 33's and 4.56 for 35's. Not sure how a double tc would work for ya.
I have some good reads on doing a gear swap and had some nice videos of detroit true tracs and such.
But lockers and gears would be best. Look into lunchbox lockers if you don't wheel super hard.
4.30's for 33's and 4.56 for 35's. Not sure how a double tc would work for ya.
I have some good reads on doing a gear swap and had some nice videos of detroit true tracs and such.
definitely wanting 4.56 gears cause ill be upgrading the tires eventually, not within a year tho, but might as well prepare rather then have to upgrade later... and about the lunchbox lockers? which is the best? aussie looks good, and almost 400-500 cheaper then the elockers i was looking at
Last edited by nviime; Apr 11, 2011 at 11:42 PM.







