Hi Gang,

I have a F150 that is in the shop having some work done to it.

They told me that the oil pan is thin and rusty and is getting to the point that it is almost pourous. They said it was a very labor-intensive project. I asked them to not do it at this time, but I will address the issue another time.

Can anyone confirm or deny this assertion? Is it easy enough to do for mechanically inclined people? Am I looking at a huge project or is it perhaps something I can take care of myself. I am somewhat handy.

Thanks,
Erik

 

Here ya go. Not as easy as eating dessert, but not hard enough to warrant a ride to the shop:

https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...hlight=oil+pan

By the way, thanks to PKRWUD for the great info!

 

You might note that this link and info was for a 4.9 engine and not a 5.8 (351) that you have.

Here's what the book says for a 5.8:

Oil Pan and Oil Pump Screen Cover and Tube


Removal

1. Remove the bolts attaching the fan shroud (8146) to the radiator (8005) and position the fan shroud over the fan assembly.

2. Remove the upper intake manifold (9424) as described in this section.

3. Remove the nuts and lockwashers attaching the engine support insulators to the chassis bracket.

4. Disconnect the oil cooler line at the left side of the radiator if equipped with an automatic transmission (7003).

5. Remove exhaust system. Refer to «Section 09-00».

6. Raise the engine (6007) and place wood blocks securely under the engine supports.

7. Drain the crankcase.

8. Support transmission with jack stand and remove transmission crossmember.

9. Remove the oil pan attaching bolts and lower the oil pan (6675) onto the crossmember.

10. Remove the two bolts attaching the oil pump screen cover and tube (6622) to the oil pump (6600). Remove nut attaching oil pump screen cover and tube to the number 3 main bearing cap stud. Lower the oil pump screen cover and tube into the oil pan.

11. Remove the oil pan from the vehicle.


Installation

1. Clean oil pan, oil pump screen cover and tube and gasket surfaces. Inspect the gasket sealing surface for damage and distortion due to overtightening of the bolts. Repair and straighten as required.

2. Position a new oil pan gasket to the cylinder block (6010).

3. Position the oil pump screen cover and tube to the oil pump, and install the lower attaching bolt and gasket loosely. Install nut attaching oil pump screen cover and tube to number 3 main bearing cap stud and torque to 30-43 N-m (22-32 lb-ft).

4. Install the upper pickup tube bolts. Tighten the pickup tube bolts to 14-20 N-m (10-15 lb-ft).

5. Position oil pan and oil pan flange reinforcement (6A674) in place. Install and alternately tighten all bolts (except for the four nearest the crankshaft) to 9-14 N-m (80-123 lb-in). Tighten four remaining bolts to 16-24 N-m (12-18 lb-ft).

6. Install the transmission crossmember and remove jack stand.

7. Raise the engine and remove the wood blocks.

8. Lower the engine and install the insulator-to-chassis bracket nuts and washers. Tighten the nuts to 73-100 N-m (54-74 lb-ft).

9. Install the exhaust system. Refer to «Section 09-00».


10. If equipped with an automatic transmission, connect the oil cooler line at the radiator. Tighten to 24-31 N-m (18-23 lb-ft).

11. Install the upper intake manifold as described in this section.

12. Install the fan shroud attaching bolts. Tighten to 7-10 N-m (62-89 lb-in).

13. Fill the crankcase with the proper grade and quantity of engine oil. Install the oil level dipstick (6750). Start the engine and operate it until it reaches normal operating temperature, then check for leaks.

 

I love this forum. You people are awesome. Thanks for the help.

I think that it is out of my league but I have spent a lot of money fixing this truck up and I still have some fixes on the horizon. I bought it to save some money and seem to be doing the opposite...

I need to replace a fender flare, have my rear output shaft u-joint looked at - and have an 02 sensor replaced... I even made a spreadsheet on it:

Type________Description________________________Pri ce
Repair_______Misfire problem_____________________95.08
Repair_______Shudder diagnosis__________________142.62
Repair_______Power steering pump/hoses__________329.61
Repair_______Brakes, calipers and rotors___________703.34
Repair_______brake hydraulic lines and hub refit_____402.89

1673.54 is what I have paid so far in repairs. Yikes. Haven't had it that long either....

 

Wow, sounds like you are have somebody else do all the work for you. About 90% of that sounds like labor.

 

i did my pan a few months ago mine is a 5.0 2-wheel drive and it wasnt to bad. the suggestion i have is if you or a mechanic replaces the pan spend the money and put a high volume pump and pump shaft in ,that way you wont have to worry about droping the pan for a bad oil pump on down the road ....

 

I wouldn't go with a high volume pump unless you have some really big race car type bearing clearences, otherwise it's just putting a lot of strain on the distributer gear. A new stock replacement pump would be a good idea though.

-Jon

 

^^^What he said.^^^