cv boots
Its not that bad, you have to pull the axle out the spindle/hub. In order to do that you have to disconnect your control arms etc. If you are not comfortable with it you may want to check around on finding someone to do it, its not that bad. I busted a boot once and took it to a 4x4 shop and they charged me $150 to replace both boots on that axle (a little high). Later I broke a CV joint and took it to another shop in town (my primary choice) and got cv joint/axle replaced, tires rotated and oil changed for $165. Cant beat that!!!
It's generally best just replacing the whole axle with a rebuilt axle than trying to change the boots. If the boot is torn, you have already got contamination in the joint and its days are numbered anyway.
You have to remove the half-shaft to fix the boot. The outer joint is non serviceable so if the outer is torn you have to remove the inner to get to it. Trying to get grease cleaned out of a joint that does not come apart is a real pita. It is easier to just buy a new half-shaft. Note: The bolts holding the joint to the axle are 12mm x 12point. The nut holding the half-shaft to the hub is a 35mm. If you remove the sway bar link the axle will come out without disconnecting the steering knuckle.
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I just did mine last weekend with handtools. All need to do is For drivers side. Jack up vehicle and put jackstand under frame.Turn wheel to left ,Disconnect both of the sway bar stabilizer bolts. Pull wheel cap,Remove 35mm nut,Remove the six 12 mm 12 point bolts,remove half shft. Reverse procedure. Took me just under an hour both sides. First time ever doing. Remember to use Loc Tite on the 12 mm bolts.
Doing the rear seal leak this weekend.
Rus
Doing the rear seal leak this weekend.
Rus
Last edited by rus; Sep 24, 2009 at 10:58 PM. Reason: gramar






