vibration
Originally Posted by DYNOTECH
Check the front driveshaft U joints.
clunking
I had a similar problem with my 2002 f150. No vibration but had the clunking. The bolt that held the front diff. was gone and the clunking was the noise it made as it slapped the skid plate. Mine clunked on acceleration however.
-Brian
-Brian
Originally Posted by brianh178
I had a similar problem with my 2002 f150. No vibration but had the clunking. The bolt that held the front diff. was gone and the clunking was the noise it made as it slapped the skid plate. Mine clunked on acceleration however.
-Brian
-Brian
I just fixed a clunk noise that was driving me crazy trying to find in my 97 F150 4x4. The front sway bar link (passenger side)was broken. The bolt head actually popped off and to look at the link it appeared ok. Had to feel the top of link bolt to determine that the bolt head had come off allowing the bar to move around. Might want to check yours out I know several guys who have had the same problem. Tie rods and ball joints ok? Good luck
This sounds more like a driveshaft angularity problem to me. Pinion is too high or too low?
D/S angularity needs to be set from 1 1/2 degress difference (maximum) in operating angle of u-joint A (front) vs. u-joint B (rear).
This can be easily checked with a liquid filled protractor. Vehicle should be on level ground & not jacked-up or elevated.
D/S angularity needs to be set from 1 1/2 degress difference (maximum) in operating angle of u-joint A (front) vs. u-joint B (rear).
This can be easily checked with a liquid filled protractor. Vehicle should be on level ground & not jacked-up or elevated.
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Originally Posted by gearmanx17
This sounds more like a driveshaft angularity problem to me. Pinion is too high or too low?
D/S angularity needs to be set from 1 1/2 degress difference (maximum) in operating angle of u-joint A (front) vs. u-joint B (rear).
This can be easily checked with a liquid filled protractor. Vehicle should be on level ground & not jacked-up or elevated.
D/S angularity needs to be set from 1 1/2 degress difference (maximum) in operating angle of u-joint A (front) vs. u-joint B (rear).
This can be easily checked with a liquid filled protractor. Vehicle should be on level ground & not jacked-up or elevated.
okay that osunds good, i will have to check that out, i now have also noticed another problem in terms of my gas milage, i used to get like 15.5 to 17.5 and now it feels like i am draggin a trailer with a car or 2 on it and i cant get my gas milage above 10-13, all stats provided by edge evo. any ideas


