If anything its better for the ign. Because it lets go of the crank the instant the truck starts. Instead of being held for an extra 1s or whatever...

 

How can I tell if there is a problem with the cylinder not firing?

 

I'm no genius at engine checking... but I guess you could get a spark plug tester and check each spark plug to make sure it's firing..

that Lancer was popping a few fuses and she claimed that the automatic seat adjuster was moving by itself when pressure was put on the kickpanel that the power wire was run through... I'm kind of skeptical about that, I think it was just a crappy seat... but the customer said that after moving the power wire it stopped, so eh... The main problem for her was her head lights kept blowing, her headlights ground might have gotten power from the power wire.. oh and I forgot to mention that she had her power wire fused next to the amp in the trunk she was complaining that her system would cut in and out, but I told her that it wasn't our install, that I could fix it if she paid... but she didn't. The whole reason for her coming in was because she thought that the headlights were blowing because of the alarm we installed, it was just a keyless/alarm install..
but in the end what I concluded was that the power wire was sending power to her chassis and caused her headlamp fuse to blow, then the mechanic took advantage of the situation and charged her to replace the bulbs, but all he had to do was replace the fuse, and he probably touched the bulb with his bare hands and left oil residue on the bulbs from his fingers and THAT was the cause of blown headlamps.. At least that's what I left it at

Anyways yeah not adequately protecting your power wires run into the cab could cause some issues with your electrical and cause a snowball effect of other issues

 

WOW okay...

If the cylinder isnt firing it will 99% of the time throw a CEL ..

 

What is a "CEL"??????? And can it be checked with a voltmeter?

 

Check Engine Light

 

No, that light is not coming on. However, I do notice the odometer to the far bottom right is low...?

 

Im talking about the odometer that reads C to H. It stays at C(which is the lowest). Is this a problem??

 

Odometer = Miles traveled.

Thats prolly your coolant gauge. Staying near C isnt bad... Just make sure your coolant isnt over/underfilled.

 

So if the coolant was at "H" could this cause my problem?

 

No, but if you were at H then youve got an issue on your hands, aka. Overheating.

You asked if it was okay near C and I gave you an answer... Nothing to do with the Alarm.

 

Maybe you should read your owner's manual to get info on what all your gauges do, the "C" usually will mean cool or cold, and your "H" is hot,

Now there is a couple things that could cause your gauges to stay at "C" or all the way to the bottom, if for some reason your acc. or ign. wire isn't tagged into your remote start it might cause the gauges to not come up when remote started, check to see if your a/c - heater turns on when you remote start, if it doesn't, then you got a bad install, also check to see if your tachometer (the one that says RPM's) is coming up normally after you remote start, again if it doesn't come up.. bad install

 

My gauges dont have RPM. Its a V6, 4.2. Yes, a/c and heat come on with remote start...

 

Exactly what I got, and I got the "RPM"
So right now...exactly what is the problem with your remote start... currently?

 

I dont have power windows, mirrors or locks either.

Anyway I just had it checked out by another shop. The prior installers did not give me the 555(whatever), bypass. They wrapped the extra key with electric tape and glued it. ****ing jackass, played me. If any one is in the Dallas area dont let them(Quality Sound) they are in Garland install anything.