if so, Id like to ask a real newbie question...

I didnt realize when I got it that there was no manual bass/treble control and while I have a VERY basic knowledge of how equalizers work...Im kinda hitting and missing when it comes to creating a personalized EQ curve. does anyone have any tips on improving sound?

For example....if theres too much treble/not enough bass....what values would I use to increase it? (I dont have the sub I ordered installed yet so using the subwoofer increase wont work yet)

 

well if I remeber correctly, if you hit either the time correction button or the button next to it you will come into a screen that will show you either bass or treble, you will see the amout of boost that the bass/treble is at, and you will see a larger number that is the frequency that the boost is at. For bass you will probably want the frequency set at around 80 hertz, because since you don't have a sub you will be unable to reproduce many sounds under 80 hertz, and 80 hertz is around the ear's sweet spot for bass. treble is anyones guess, it is set up the same as teh bass, with the boost level and the frequency that the boost is set at. I hope that I helped!

 

I think youre talking about the 9813 (from what I can tell by the manual which is written for several versions)



the 9815 has only the EQ....Ive been wrong before...but double check that the 9815 has bass/treble boost. (I dont think it does)


thanks for replying tho!

mike

 

There is a link to the pdf file for the owners manual., go to:
alpine1.com

Go to: products/car audio/head units/cd players
click on the link for the owners manual, it is there for the taking.

 

maybe it will help further if I add that on most of the newer Alpines, bass, treble boost, and auxiliary defeat controls are are located on the Volume control, press once for bass, gain is controlled by turning the dial; more info than that and you too will have to read the manual, Manuel.

 

guys I read the manual....several times now actually....

Im quite positive that the bass/treble control is NOT for the 9815 model....a claim that was backed up on another board by someone else with this HU. The 9813 I believe it was, had the bass/treble control.....the 9815 is completely controlled through the EQ

 

I looked at the manual I directed you to, I suppose it is the same version as you have (for 9811/13/15 seriesH/U's). It does offer you preset options, as well as opportunities to recall custom settings(see pp13-14,20-24 in manual).
That should offer you the tools/instructions on to do the work (tune the system).
Regarding how one should begin with the base settings: In general, rock, instrumental, etc, make the equalizer settings in the shape of a V, increasing gain for both low, and high, progressively more toward 60hz lo frequencies, and 150+khz highs; for more vocal emphasis, reverse the gain for each frequency into an inverted V shape. Just a rough guideline, it is a matter of personal preference for the listener as to what sounds you want to bring out of the signal.

 

yeah...I dont care much for their preset options really. The "rock" one is the only one that I feel is listenable, as the others are way too treble heavy.

As far as your advice...I appreciate it...Im pretty dumb when it comes to this tho...so like...Im not sure how to tell when its at 60hz or 150khz, etc.

the basic format of creating your own curve is that when you get to the part where you can customize it, it offers you five different "bands" (which are basically numbers on the HU...such as 1, 8.0, 63, 162 or something. Im not sure of the exact numbers right now (Im at work) but they are along those lines. So, lets say you start at 8.0...you then turn the dial to increase or decrease the level of that particular "band" but then only description you have of it are like +7, +8, or -3,-2, -1 depending on which way youre going.

I hope this makes some sense to you guys...because what I really need to know is what sound is increased or decreased for each of the 5 values.....like...if I want to increase the vocal level I turn up 63., etc. I know this is totally dummyfied but like I said...Ive never paid much attention to this kind of thing before.

Hope you can help me out by letting me know which values do what on the EQ and perhaps what setting (-3 on 63, +4 on 162, etc.) your bands are on.


thanks in advance and dont laugh *too* hard at me

 

CoachP -

I have the 9813. It took me a while to figure out the best settings for the crossover in my 'Screw. I am now in the process of learning the equalizer settings.

I am assuming you won't mind a little tutorial here. If I insult your intelligence, I'm sorry. I really am not trying to be a *****head here. I wish someone would have explained it to me they way I understand it now (Lord knows the kid at the audio store sure wasn't any help...)

Before you start, you need to check the switch on the side of your unit to tell if you have it set in 2 or 3 way mode. Mine is set to 2 way, so the set-up I describe fits both my installed equipment and my hearing.

If you are using the unit in the 2 way mode, you get mid-bass and highs only from the front and rear RCA's and low bass only from the sub RCA's.

If you are using the unit in the 3 way mode, you get highs only from the front RCA's, mid-bass from the rear RCA's, and low bass from the Sub RCA's.

The crossover (X-over) network built into your unit should be set up to match your speakers, truck accoustics, etc. Normally, once you get this set so that each speaker is getting the proper frequencies, you don't change it. When you make these adjustments, don't worry if you like the sound at this point. What you are listening for is distortion, harshness, etc. After you get the X-over set, the equalizer is what you use to make it sound nice...

Simply put, the X-over sends the low bass to the subs and the mid bass and highs to the door drivers and tweeters. It also allows you to "balance" the output of the speakers so they sound smooth and the same volume.

To set your X-over up, you need to know some specs on your speakers, amps, etc.

For the subs, what is their upper frequency cut-off value (expressed in HZ) ? Let's say it is 150 HZ.

Let's say your doors have 6 1/2"s that can go down to 80 HZ. If they are component, there will be a passive crossover supplied with them to separate the mid-bass from the highs, so your tweeter specs are not needed.

Page 16 of the manual shows the way to program. I'll tell you what the settings mean in "laymen's terms".

Using the 2-way mode and the above-mentioned parameters, you would set the X-over as follows:

Select the "Low" (subwoofer) band. Press the |<< or >>| buttons to scroll through the frequency points until you see the highest setting closest to the 150 HZ mark from above. Once you have it, press the SOURCE/POWER button to select the "slope" of the X-over's output. Simply put, the higher the number, the steeper the cut-off at the desired frequency. In other words, the Sub output goes from 20 - 150 HZ, but at 6db per octave slope the frequencies above 150 HZ are "rolled off" at a gentle slope. As a result, the sub is still reproducing sounds all the way out to 400 HZ or so (too tired and too late to do really accurate calcs right now). Each higher setting "narrows" the bandwidth and further lowers the above-150 HZ sounds.

After you select the slope, you turn the **** to select the output level of the x-over for that particular band. -12db is the quietest, and 0db is the loudest.

So, if your door speakers can go down to 80 HZ, you would set the Rear and Front band to X-over at 80 HZ. I use the -24db/octave settings for both my subs and my doors. This provides a pretty steep cut-off and prevents low bass from going to my doors and making them distort.

Play around with the slopes, x-over frequencies and output level; they change immediately while you adjust them and you can always scroll back around. You want to get the subs playing only the real lows and the doors not playing the real lows. I suggest turning off your subs when you adjust the doors initially. Play music with good bass and adjust the x-over settings until they go low as possible, loud as possible, without distortion. It's a lot of trial and error, but you can do it with a little patience.

After you get the doors sounding right, re-connect the subs. You will probably have to adjust the output level on the doors, the subs, or both until it sounds balanced.

Here's the good news - you can do this with 6 separate settings and store them all. Then, you can recall them to compare how your set-up parameters sound. This is a good way to compare different scenarios very quickly without having to re-program the unit (and in the mean time forget how it sounded).

Now, you are ready to play with the "Bass and Treble" section - the equalizer (EQ).

There are no "Bass and "Treble" controls in the traditional sense. Your unit has a 5 band EQ built in. You can relate it to one of those equalizers they used to sell at the flea market. You know, with the little slider ***** that go up and down ? Each **** had a frequency associated with it (20 HZ, 40 HZ, 80 HZ, 15 KHZ, etc.) and you could make the associated frequencies sound louder or softer with each ****. Your unit has an electronic equivalent (albeit much higher quality) built in.

To set-up the EQ (page 14) you press the Band/Tel button to select the desired band, 1-5. For simplicity sake, I set mine up with the lowest band at 1 and progressively increased to 5.

Once you are on band 1, press the |<< or >>| buttons to scroll through the frequency points until you see the lowest bass you want to adjust. Turn the **** to select the output level of the EQ for that particular band. Continue for the rest of the bands. Remember, "Bass" is made up of low HZ and "Treble" is made up of higher HZ. Most people cannot hear above 17KHZ or so, so don't waste a bunch of settings up on that end of the range.

After you pick the bands and the levels, you have to assign a "Q" value to each. Simply put, it is the output "bandwidth" for each setting; 1 being the widest, 2 being narrower and 3 being the tightest. Again, you will have to play with these settings for a while to find the ones you like the most.

More good news - you can do this with 6 separate settings and store them all. You can recall them to work with a particular type of music, for example.

By the way, press the rotary **** until the "Defeat" menu shows and be sure it is "Off". If you turn this "On" all your X-over and EQ settings are bypassed.

I would also set the standard EQ mode to "Flat" instead of "Rock", etc. After you make all of the above adjustments, you can play with those factory EQ profiles to see how you like them.

Sorry for the long post, but I hope you find this of value. Drop me a line if you want any additional info, suggestions, etc. I'll try to help if I can.

I'm attaching my sig so you can see my set-up.

 

excellent post Bman...

I do have two questions tho


1) for each frequency point you describe...is there a low, mid, high for you to set?


2) why is it that it seems anytime I INCREASE a low number like 1.2 or something...it increases the TREBLE and takes out the bass. shouldnt it do the opposite?

 

Kinda off the subject, but where did you all get your 9815?? I have the 7893 now and absolutely love it, but I have been considering putting it in my wakeboard boat and putting the 9815 in the truck. What is the best price you all have seen on this unit??

 

LightningCrew -

There is a 9815 on ebay right now for $350. Reputable seller, brand new, buy it now ready.

 

No. Each setting is a low, mid or high frequency. For example, for the 5 bands of the EQ, you might set the first at 63HZ (low), the next at 400HZ(kinda' low), 2KHZ(mid), 5KHZ(mid-high) and 12KHZ(very high). You would then set the level (volume or output level) to match your hearing and the accoustics of your truck.


If you adjusted the 1.2 point, that is really 1200HZ. That frequency would come across as being more treble than bass. To adjust the bass, stick to the frequencies below 500HZ or so.

Hope this helps...