2010 fans and spal
Chris, I’m seeing two different versions of events here, first, you don’t have a filter, you ordered one Sunday, I shipped it last night.
Second, you didn’t tell me that you disconnected the positive fan leads, as far as I can tell, you removed the 6-32 lock nut from the controller ground and moved the ground of the fan to the battery negative.
“I disconnected the negative from the fan, from the controller. The first time it was removed from the controller was to secure the connections, that never caused a problem, but that;s when i discovered that with one of the fans disconnected the other works”
You did this in lieu of following my directions while I was trying to help you troubleshoot the installation. I told you then that doing that would damage the controller, that grounding the fans while not having a reliable ground to the controller would apply 50V across the controller, which would damage it. It was then that it became the positive lead here.
Regarding the need of the filter, I asked you to do a search for dcc and contour, and the first link that shows up is this: http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/cool...r-reviews.html I explained that the motors are similar bosch motors, explained to you how the controller starts the motors, and stated that a difference from one motor to another would cause one to start and another not to. That’s also been said here by at least one other person.
I did everything I could to help you, I exchanged a total of 62 emails to try and help you trouble shoot the installation, primarily because you wouldn’t listen to what I told you and because and you wouldn’t convey any information back to me. I gave you the benefit of the doubt when you seemed to side-step nearly every question that I asked you. It wasn’t just the negative fan wire that I had to ask about multiple times, even finding out if the pwm frequency at the fan was happening when the controller was cold or hot took me mentioning that the controller shouldn’t be on when it’s cold several times. It’s difficult to give you that benefit when you say the exact opposite here regarding the wire that you disconnected from what you told me, and when you’ve done both multiple times.
I sent 21 emails, in response to your 24 emails regarding just this subject in order to explain and re-explain how you damaged the controller. I also discounted a replacement controller and even offered to build a small lot in order to get it to you in four days, but at this point, I don’t see the gain for either one of us in me selling you another controller, as I don’t see any reason to believe the results would be any different this time around.
If you would like, I’ll still look at the controller for you, but as I said in my emails, every controller is run for a minimum of 20 minutes in a 200 degree oven at full load, it’s possible that it’s defective, anything is possible, just unlikely. On the other hand, I absolutely know that running the controller without a secured ground will damage it, so even if I take what you say at face value, that would be my conclusion. Still, if you want to have someone else look at it, I know of at least one person in this thread that can verify what happened. I don’t know if he would want to do it or what the price would be, but from the email exchanges, you clearly don’t trust me at all. I would take his word for what ever he thinks happened.
I’ll go ahead and refund the money for the replacement controller, I will refund the money for the filter also, I’ll try and recall it, if that doesn’t happen, I’m fine with it. We’ll even call it a disagreement and I’ll split the difference with you on the price of the controller, providing that you buy your next controller from someone else. Fair enough? I’ll refund that when the controller gets here or, if you want to go for broke, I’ll ask if the other person wants to look at it.
Second, you didn’t tell me that you disconnected the positive fan leads, as far as I can tell, you removed the 6-32 lock nut from the controller ground and moved the ground of the fan to the battery negative.
“I disconnected the negative from the fan, from the controller. The first time it was removed from the controller was to secure the connections, that never caused a problem, but that;s when i discovered that with one of the fans disconnected the other works”
You did this in lieu of following my directions while I was trying to help you troubleshoot the installation. I told you then that doing that would damage the controller, that grounding the fans while not having a reliable ground to the controller would apply 50V across the controller, which would damage it. It was then that it became the positive lead here.
Regarding the need of the filter, I asked you to do a search for dcc and contour, and the first link that shows up is this: http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/cool...r-reviews.html I explained that the motors are similar bosch motors, explained to you how the controller starts the motors, and stated that a difference from one motor to another would cause one to start and another not to. That’s also been said here by at least one other person.
I did everything I could to help you, I exchanged a total of 62 emails to try and help you trouble shoot the installation, primarily because you wouldn’t listen to what I told you and because and you wouldn’t convey any information back to me. I gave you the benefit of the doubt when you seemed to side-step nearly every question that I asked you. It wasn’t just the negative fan wire that I had to ask about multiple times, even finding out if the pwm frequency at the fan was happening when the controller was cold or hot took me mentioning that the controller shouldn’t be on when it’s cold several times. It’s difficult to give you that benefit when you say the exact opposite here regarding the wire that you disconnected from what you told me, and when you’ve done both multiple times.
I sent 21 emails, in response to your 24 emails regarding just this subject in order to explain and re-explain how you damaged the controller. I also discounted a replacement controller and even offered to build a small lot in order to get it to you in four days, but at this point, I don’t see the gain for either one of us in me selling you another controller, as I don’t see any reason to believe the results would be any different this time around.
If you would like, I’ll still look at the controller for you, but as I said in my emails, every controller is run for a minimum of 20 minutes in a 200 degree oven at full load, it’s possible that it’s defective, anything is possible, just unlikely. On the other hand, I absolutely know that running the controller without a secured ground will damage it, so even if I take what you say at face value, that would be my conclusion. Still, if you want to have someone else look at it, I know of at least one person in this thread that can verify what happened. I don’t know if he would want to do it or what the price would be, but from the email exchanges, you clearly don’t trust me at all. I would take his word for what ever he thinks happened.
I’ll go ahead and refund the money for the replacement controller, I will refund the money for the filter also, I’ll try and recall it, if that doesn’t happen, I’m fine with it. We’ll even call it a disagreement and I’ll split the difference with you on the price of the controller, providing that you buy your next controller from someone else. Fair enough? I’ll refund that when the controller gets here or, if you want to go for broke, I’ll ask if the other person wants to look at it.
^The details occurred late last night which is why it has not been mentioned. Brian and I had come to an agreement, but I guess not.
I've provided well more than enough information both here and to himself.
Regardless, I am not bashing his product, just the fact that it has failed is ridiculous and I am still willing to work things out with a replacement at my cost.
Plain and simple, if things work out, he is a stand up guy and a man of his word and if not, i'll need to figure out something else.
I've provided well more than enough information both here and to himself.
Regardless, I am not bashing his product, just the fact that it has failed is ridiculous and I am still willing to work things out with a replacement at my cost.
Plain and simple, if things work out, he is a stand up guy and a man of his word and if not, i'll need to figure out something else.

MGD
Last edited by MGDfan; Oct 13, 2010 at 08:25 AM.


MGD
I've been following this thread for some time trying to learn what I can and see what problems there might be. I have the fans sitting in the box right now. I probably won't have time to attempt this until the spring but y'all hurry up and write me some directions before then will ya!!
In the same boat, just got my fans yesterday, got my controller a month ago, waiting on the ford pigtails to come now. Probably won't be able to try this until at least late winter as I'm going in for CTS surgery in a couple of weeks and with the problems I've been having I won't be able to do much of anything to my truck until after that heals up.
Dang - I wuz gonna save that pic too....
Wierd - wonder why that stuff is all gone?

MGD


