Upper Pulley Help Needed
Upper Pulley Help Needed
Hi All,
Anybody else have a problem getting your after market Upper Pulley Hub on "ALL THE WAY" ? I bought a $150.00 great puller tool and it worked simple and easy taken the stock one off. It worked just as easy putting the Dial-Ur-Boost Hub on UNTIL THE LAST 1/2 INCH OR SO, then it just stopped and don't want to move another hair. I even snapped the bolt off the puller tool in the upper shaft (but that came out by hand THANK GOD ) I fought it another 1/4" or so, now I'm still about 1/8 or maybe 1/4" away from being flush like they want. I know the sucker aint never coming off, I know the bolt is there as extra insurance, I even know the belt is straight enough to NOT give me trouble.
But I would really like it all the way.
Any Suggestions???
Anybody else have a problem getting your after market Upper Pulley Hub on "ALL THE WAY" ? I bought a $150.00 great puller tool and it worked simple and easy taken the stock one off. It worked just as easy putting the Dial-Ur-Boost Hub on UNTIL THE LAST 1/2 INCH OR SO, then it just stopped and don't want to move another hair. I even snapped the bolt off the puller tool in the upper shaft (but that came out by hand THANK GOD ) I fought it another 1/4" or so, now I'm still about 1/8 or maybe 1/4" away from being flush like they want. I know the sucker aint never coming off, I know the bolt is there as extra insurance, I even know the belt is straight enough to NOT give me trouble.
But I would really like it all the way.
Any Suggestions???
When I put my upper pulley on I originally put it on backwards. Everything was going well until I noticed it wasn't lining up with the other pulleys. This might help?!?!? Just a thought though.
Thanks lightning, but I did it like they asked, the numbers stamped on it are facing out to the front bumber. I'll try and wrestle the next 1/8" or so again Saturday morning and hope for the best. Otherwise it's staying where it is.
I am not positive on this, but didn't someone about a year or two ago find out that they misprinted the directions?
I remember something distinctively about the #'s facing out.
Come on guys help him out here.
Rob, I'm going to search and see what I can come up with.
BfB
I remember something distinctively about the #'s facing out.
Come on guys help him out here.
Rob, I'm going to search and see what I can come up with.
BfB
If its tight enough to break the bolt in the center, then the next thing is to take the drive shaft casting off of the blower and take it to a shop and have them press the hub the rest of the way on. Thats the only way I know of that won't harm the bearings or anything else.
You will have to replace the gear oil, wich isn't a bad thing but it is just one more expence. If you have to do this, buy the oil at a GM store, its about half the price and I usually poor in 1 1/2 bottles. On the flange I use a # 518 Loctite gasket eliminator, that is the closest thing I could find to the original gasket material. I goes on like red locktite jelly.
hope this helps
Dale
You will have to replace the gear oil, wich isn't a bad thing but it is just one more expence. If you have to do this, buy the oil at a GM store, its about half the price and I usually poor in 1 1/2 bottles. On the flange I use a # 518 Loctite gasket eliminator, that is the closest thing I could find to the original gasket material. I goes on like red locktite jelly.
hope this helps
Dale
Here, I found what I remember. I am not sure this will help you, though.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...threadid=54424
You need to call South Florida Pulley Headquarters, but I can't find their damn #. Here is their email, though:
sfph@southfloridapulleyhq.com
I found this picture:

Do you have yours installed like this?
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...threadid=54424
You need to call South Florida Pulley Headquarters, but I can't find their damn #. Here is their email, though:
sfph@southfloridapulleyhq.com
I found this picture:

Do you have yours installed like this?
Last edited by BfB; Aug 9, 2002 at 09:38 AM.
I'm going to help you out, but don't tell anyone ok. This is a long old secret that I used to assist in "pressing" bearing onto a pinion gear (just this weekend in fact).
I assume your upper is steel that will help. Not painted (powerdercoated is fine, or anodized). Use that fancey $150 puller and remove the pulley. Feel like you working the wrong way yet? Good.
Okay. Get a nice thick rag that you don't like or will ever use. Shop rags work well since they are usually fire resistant.
Go into your house and turn on your electric burner. Did I say *ELECTRIC*, not gas. Leave your pulley on the burner bottom side sittin flat on the coils of your burner. LEt it get very, very hot. THen when it is, use the rag to pick it up. Take it and slid it onto your pulley shaft. It should go right on without any force. Maybe keep a rubber mallet there just to *LIGHTLY* tap it on.
It will transfer heat to your supercharger, but shouldn't be enough to cook any seals. Don't cool it with cold water as it is probably hardend and you don't want to change that. Let it cool for 20 mintues or so and finish the job.
This should cause your pulley to expand and slide on easier.
If you would respond to how this works so other disbelievers will know...
Thanks and may the force be with you.
I assume your upper is steel that will help. Not painted (powerdercoated is fine, or anodized). Use that fancey $150 puller and remove the pulley. Feel like you working the wrong way yet? Good.
Okay. Get a nice thick rag that you don't like or will ever use. Shop rags work well since they are usually fire resistant.
Go into your house and turn on your electric burner. Did I say *ELECTRIC*, not gas. Leave your pulley on the burner bottom side sittin flat on the coils of your burner. LEt it get very, very hot. THen when it is, use the rag to pick it up. Take it and slid it onto your pulley shaft. It should go right on without any force. Maybe keep a rubber mallet there just to *LIGHTLY* tap it on.
It will transfer heat to your supercharger, but shouldn't be enough to cook any seals. Don't cool it with cold water as it is probably hardend and you don't want to change that. Let it cool for 20 mintues or so and finish the job.
This should cause your pulley to expand and slide on easier.
If you would respond to how this works so other disbelievers will know...
Thanks and may the force be with you.
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Thanks Everyone for your help, your always looking to help a fellow L owner out, "Your the Best". I tell you this is like having friends again or something
I ****** Love you Guys.
And JP, You Da Man
I talked to Terry, the owner of South Florida Pulley, He hooked me up with the Company that made the Tool. They're sending me a new 8mm Screw for the Puller Tool. SVT MoonShine has the right method, Unfortunatly There aint no way in hell I'm taking that sucker off to try it. The writting does face outwards and mine is correct. Within the next 6 hours when the light comes up, that suckers going on ALL THE WAY, one way or another. I still have 9 threads left sticking out the end of the puller tool shaft, that'll be enough.
And You JP, I don't know how you do it ???, but you always find out who I bought my last Mod from. HOW DO YOU DO THAT ???
I ****** Love you Guys.
And JP, You Da Man
I talked to Terry, the owner of South Florida Pulley, He hooked me up with the Company that made the Tool. They're sending me a new 8mm Screw for the Puller Tool. SVT MoonShine has the right method, Unfortunatly There aint no way in hell I'm taking that sucker off to try it. The writting does face outwards and mine is correct. Within the next 6 hours when the light comes up, that suckers going on ALL THE WAY, one way or another. I still have 9 threads left sticking out the end of the puller tool shaft, that'll be enough.
And You JP, I don't know how you do it ???, but you always find out who I bought my last Mod from. HOW DO YOU DO THAT ???
Last edited by Rob_02Lightning; Aug 10, 2002 at 12:03 PM.


