changing spark plugs
#1
#2
you will need several 3/8 extensions from 3" to 12" in length
a std size ratchet and a stubby
a 5/8 sparkplug socket w/ the rubber inside
tape the socket to the extention so it can't come off
a 10mm socket if you want to remove the PS resivor braket for easier access (not necessary)
to remove the coils you will need
again several lengths 1/4 extensions
a 7mm socket
a swivel
a 1 piece 7mm swivel socket (for the coil bolt under the fuel pressure regulator)
alot of patience
OH and the most important:
put the new plugs in FINGER TIGHT then using the ratchet tighten 1/16 turn more.
install coil
go to next plug
When done enjoy you favorite cold beverage
a std size ratchet and a stubby
a 5/8 sparkplug socket w/ the rubber inside
tape the socket to the extention so it can't come off
a 10mm socket if you want to remove the PS resivor braket for easier access (not necessary)
to remove the coils you will need
again several lengths 1/4 extensions
a 7mm socket
a swivel
a 1 piece 7mm swivel socket (for the coil bolt under the fuel pressure regulator)
alot of patience
OH and the most important:
put the new plugs in FINGER TIGHT then using the ratchet tighten 1/16 turn more.
install coil
go to next plug
When done enjoy you favorite cold beverage
#3
Originally Posted by calhoun44
i heard it's a bitch to change the plugs in the L, local shop quoted me $100 to change them. anybody got any tips so i can do them myself?
BTW i'm putting in NGK-ITR6F
thanks,
BTW i'm putting in NGK-ITR6F
thanks,
#4
It is a bitch. Have the antibiotic cream and tylenol available. About five of them are relatively simple. The other three (the rear ones) are a real pain. Read some of the archive posts for hints. Rob has several good posts on it. The Craftsman 7mm swivel socket is a big help. Also electrical tape to hold all the sockets extensions together and a good magnetic pickup tool are a tremendous help. I was so paranoid about loosing one of the small coil pack screws somewhere in the back on the rear drivers side, that I finally tied thread around the screw and my finger so I could retrieve it if (and when) I dropped it. I'm sure it does go a lot faster the second time but the first time is agony.
Also I put everything back together with antisieze lubricant. Some of those little coil pack bolts are so tight you think they will snap off before loosening.
Dan
Also I put everything back together with antisieze lubricant. Some of those little coil pack bolts are so tight you think they will snap off before loosening.
Dan
Last edited by SVTARKANSAS; 05-21-2007 at 07:23 PM.
#5
If you decide the change them yourself, it's not as bad as some may make it sound. But I'd advise you do sevral things first:
1) Do a "search" on here and get all the "tips" by guys who have already done this.
2) Make sure you have the "right tools" as previously noted:
- pay attention to the spark plug socket you use - make sure the rubber insert inside stays inside the socket when you take the socket off the plug! Check it out first because if it comes off easily when you take a plug out of it, when you install your plugs it also may come off when you tighten a plug down and you'll have to "fish" to get it back out of there.
- a "magnetic" tool may come in handy to snag onto a coil pack screw
- one of those 20" "claw type" devices may also come in handy
3) Reserve plenty of time to do the job and utilize a lot of patience - you might get lucky and get done in a couple of hours, then again it may take 4-5 hours your first time. Those back coil screws may seem almost impossible to get at - but you can do it.
1) Do a "search" on here and get all the "tips" by guys who have already done this.
2) Make sure you have the "right tools" as previously noted:
- pay attention to the spark plug socket you use - make sure the rubber insert inside stays inside the socket when you take the socket off the plug! Check it out first because if it comes off easily when you take a plug out of it, when you install your plugs it also may come off when you tighten a plug down and you'll have to "fish" to get it back out of there.
- a "magnetic" tool may come in handy to snag onto a coil pack screw
- one of those 20" "claw type" devices may also come in handy
3) Reserve plenty of time to do the job and utilize a lot of patience - you might get lucky and get done in a couple of hours, then again it may take 4-5 hours your first time. Those back coil screws may seem almost impossible to get at - but you can do it.
#6
I used 2 swivel 3/8" joints for the rear passenger plug. Removed as many wiriing plugs/braces on the drivers side as possible.
+1 for the antibiotic cream. My hands were so scraped up that I could baraly scrub them to get the grime off. I hope if I do it again it will be better.
Side question: Does anyone go back and retighten them after XXX amount of miles?
+1 for the antibiotic cream. My hands were so scraped up that I could baraly scrub them to get the grime off. I hope if I do it again it will be better.
Side question: Does anyone go back and retighten them after XXX amount of miles?
#7
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#8
With the right tools it isn't all that bad, but it still takes time. I have done them before in 20 minutes, inbetween rounds at the track.
The trick is to use a regular spark plug socket with a one inch extension , then a swivel and two foot extensions. Then make sure you tape the socket, extension, and swivel together, don't ask me how I figured that one out.
For the coil pacs go to sears and buy a 7mm socket with a built in swivel for a 1/4 inch drive, and get a good tellescopic magnet to grab the coil pac bolts.
The pic shows my setup, the extra one inch extension, is there just to show you what it looks like.
The trick is to use a regular spark plug socket with a one inch extension , then a swivel and two foot extensions. Then make sure you tape the socket, extension, and swivel together, don't ask me how I figured that one out.
For the coil pacs go to sears and buy a 7mm socket with a built in swivel for a 1/4 inch drive, and get a good tellescopic magnet to grab the coil pac bolts.
The pic shows my setup, the extra one inch extension, is there just to show you what it looks like.
#11
#13
#14
Originally Posted by Robert Francis
To just change the plugs, you don't need to remove anything. The only thing I loosened was the power steering resevoir and pushed it out of the way - and it's good to disconnect your fuel injectors to get a little more room. But thats all.
You don't even have to do that
You can sneek the socket into the front drivers side pkug, from just behind resevoir. Don't disconect the fuel injectors, just rotate then a little to get to the coil pac screws. The really only thing that might be helpfull to remoce is the vacuum hoses for the passenger rear plug.
Unless you have huge hands, I like to start each screw by hand, though the back two on the drivers ide, are tough to get your hand in there.