Stock Block Kennebell Users
If you have a super-duper engine builder you don't want to give away, that's cool. I'm just interested in the internals to be used.
Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
From: Shelby twp, MI
I am just about to do the stock block kb thing this week. I have a question though. What size upper pulley comes on the kb that jlp sells? I have metco interchangeable 4&6# lower pullies, am thinking I need to run the 4# lower to keep the boost around 14-15. I am not sure though what this will net me as far as total boost. I have shorty headers and gutted hi-flows w/ bassani system. Also what size belts are needed for a 4# and 6# lower with the stock pulley on a kb. Oh yeah is that a 8-rib pulley?
Sorry for all the questions but I want to make sure I have everything I need before I start!
Thanks
Dan
Sorry for all the questions but I want to make sure I have everything I need before I start!
Thanks
Dan
Member
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: los angeles
Originally posted by Bob Tompkins
I am one of 3 local guys pushing upwards of 20psi on our stock blocks. The other two have been running for quite some time with no real issues. I have had mine for only a week and have barely driven it because of bad weather and wanting to get it to my tuner so we can get it on the dyno.
The key is to have all the right parts and a good tune, I am not saying it wont blow up but ateast give it the best chance you can by adding the supporting parts and proper tune. Just bolting a KB on and running crazy boost is crazy, you peg you stock mass air and go lean instantly and boom. You need to feed these big boost motors lots of fuel and a conservative timing curve especially on pump gas. If you hear it pinging get out of the throttle for christ sake, common sense goes along way to making things live. I plan on running this boost level 24/7 just add a race tune for the track with lots of timing and race gas.
My truck has the following performance mods:
Custom tune
NGK tr6's @ .036
KB with 9" lower / 3" upper (20/21psi at the shift)
60lb injectors
SCT maf
Twin 255lph HP walbro's
Dynatech long tubes
Bassani cat back
FTVB
JLP traction bars
Lowered with 01 Leafs / FRPP kit / clunk washers / alignment
EGR delete
Air raid cool air box
C+L intake elbow
C+L plenum
FJO wideband - runs in the truck full time
Boost - FP - WT gauges
PCV mods
Nitto 555R drag radials
Wow!! we have an almost identical set up but I have a built motor and only runnin 15 lbs but atleat 70 additional hp.
I have the JLP plenum and you have the c&l, I have the other longtubes etc.
Bob
I am one of 3 local guys pushing upwards of 20psi on our stock blocks. The other two have been running for quite some time with no real issues. I have had mine for only a week and have barely driven it because of bad weather and wanting to get it to my tuner so we can get it on the dyno.
The key is to have all the right parts and a good tune, I am not saying it wont blow up but ateast give it the best chance you can by adding the supporting parts and proper tune. Just bolting a KB on and running crazy boost is crazy, you peg you stock mass air and go lean instantly and boom. You need to feed these big boost motors lots of fuel and a conservative timing curve especially on pump gas. If you hear it pinging get out of the throttle for christ sake, common sense goes along way to making things live. I plan on running this boost level 24/7 just add a race tune for the track with lots of timing and race gas.
My truck has the following performance mods:
Custom tune
NGK tr6's @ .036
KB with 9" lower / 3" upper (20/21psi at the shift)
60lb injectors
SCT maf
Twin 255lph HP walbro's
Dynatech long tubes
Bassani cat back
FTVB
JLP traction bars
Lowered with 01 Leafs / FRPP kit / clunk washers / alignment
EGR delete
Air raid cool air box
C+L intake elbow
C+L plenum
FJO wideband - runs in the truck full time
Boost - FP - WT gauges
PCV mods
Nitto 555R drag radials
Wow!! we have an almost identical set up but I have a built motor and only runnin 15 lbs but atleat 70 additional hp.
I have the JLP plenum and you have the c&l, I have the other longtubes etc.
Bob
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 359
Likes: 0
From: NC
Originally posted by Bob Tompkins
That is a FJO wideband, one the best kits out there IMHO.
The wideband retail kit #KWB0221 (green display) is $465.00 but you need the sensor $190.00 to make it all work. The sensor is part# SO20001
You can get all the info here----->
http://wideband.jaxracing.com/index.html
PS. I am not affiliated with that site or company but it is where I got mine. My wideband has been in 3 different vehicle's over 3 years and its been dead on the money accurate.
Bob
That is a FJO wideband, one the best kits out there IMHO.
The wideband retail kit #KWB0221 (green display) is $465.00 but you need the sensor $190.00 to make it all work. The sensor is part# SO20001
You can get all the info here----->
http://wideband.jaxracing.com/index.html
PS. I am not affiliated with that site or company but it is where I got mine. My wideband has been in 3 different vehicle's over 3 years and its been dead on the money accurate.
Bob
Bob
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
From: Cape Coral, FL
Blah Blah Blah.....................
B-O-O-M
Bottom line, if you aren't prepared to spend the money on a new engine then don't modify your truck.
If I had a dollar for every time I heard someone say this combo is ok, then see them blow up their stock end, I could pay for my new engine
B-O-O-M
Bottom line, if you aren't prepared to spend the money on a new engine then don't modify your truck.
If I had a dollar for every time I heard someone say this combo is ok, then see them blow up their stock end, I could pay for my new engine
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,018
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Originally posted by Whitelighting
Where did you install the sensor?Thanks for the info.
Bob
Where did you install the sensor?Thanks for the info.
Bob
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,018
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Originally posted by Dave02
Blah Blah Blah.....................
B-O-O-M
Bottom line, if you aren't prepared to spend the money on a new engine then don't modify your truck.
If I had a dollar for every time I heard someone say this combo is ok, then see them blow up their stock end, I could pay for my new engine
Blah Blah Blah.....................
B-O-O-M
Bottom line, if you aren't prepared to spend the money on a new engine then don't modify your truck.
If I had a dollar for every time I heard someone say this combo is ok, then see them blow up their stock end, I could pay for my new engine
I am pushing my luck and I know it, but I have done it before and have come out smelling like a rose so I will be good to go I hope.
If the block decides to ventilate itself I am prepared for the aftermath.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 343
Likes: 0
From: The Sticks
I have a stock block KB L. I have 476/535. No problems here and that is at 16#. I ran 12.3 1/4, and just found out I wasn't running a strong spark on the #8 piston. (loose spark plug, which caused a stripped head). Other than that it runs fine.
Dave02 is right it is the rods that killed his motor. The tune in Daves truck is the same as mine and I have well over 12,000 miles with my KB and stock block. But just like Bob I to have a block ready to go in once I blow it up. So make sure you are ready for the consequences of a KB.
Dave02 is right it is the rods that killed his motor. The tune in Daves truck is the same as mine and I have well over 12,000 miles with my KB and stock block. But just like Bob I to have a block ready to go in once I blow it up. So make sure you are ready for the consequences of a KB.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 171
Likes: 0
From: Cape Coral, FL
Originally posted by 1fst54
I have a stock block KB L. I have 476/535. No problems here and that is at 16#. I ran 12.3 1/4, and just found out I wasn't running a strong spark on the #8 piston. (loose spark plug, which caused a stripped head). Other than that it runs fine.
Dave02 is right it is the rods that killed his motor. The tune in Daves truck is the same as mine and I have well over 12,000 miles with my KB and stock block. But just like Bob I to have a block ready to go in once I blow it up. So make sure you are ready for the consequences of a KB.
I have a stock block KB L. I have 476/535. No problems here and that is at 16#. I ran 12.3 1/4, and just found out I wasn't running a strong spark on the #8 piston. (loose spark plug, which caused a stripped head). Other than that it runs fine.
Dave02 is right it is the rods that killed his motor. The tune in Daves truck is the same as mine and I have well over 12,000 miles with my KB and stock block. But just like Bob I to have a block ready to go in once I blow it up. So make sure you are ready for the consequences of a KB.
Every engine is unique. Eric and I had our trucks tuned by the same guy, on the same dyno, on the same day. He's making 16 to my 14, plus I had upgraded fuel pumps, intercooler, long tubes and a couple other things he didn't have....................
So logically my engine should last longer right? WRONG.
I just hate to see anyone get put in a bad situation because something happens that they aren't prepared for. I said I knew it could go, but saying it and understanding it are 2 different things.
I will never forget that feeling sitting on the side of the road waiting for a flatbed.