Long time no post. Checked the sight out for the he11 of it.

I had a 2003 Lightning, stock block - every imaginable bolt on including a Kenne Bell - God I miss my truck!!!!!!!!!!

I was pushing 16lbs boost in regular florida weather and on a cold day (anything below 60) I would see 18 on the gauges. 3.20" 2lb upper, 9" 6lb lower.

I had a conservative tune (that is the key to block survival in my opinion). It's not necessarily the boost, but the tune that counts. I was pushing 496/562, 14 degrees timing, stock shift points, 12.1 a/f.

I ran her from 500 miles to 10200 with out problem.

BUT BEWARE - and this is the first time I am admitting this.

When I stripped my L of all mods in prep to sell. BOTH head gaskets were leaking! Food for thought.

I ran her at least 20 times down the 1/8th and 4 times down the 1/4 - turned out I was missing a spark on cylinder number 5 during my 1/4 runs in Bradenton and I ran a 12.2 at 111mph. So desparately wanted the 11's - life goes on.

Any way - she held together, but the ? is how long was it going to last? I will never know.

Hi to everyone and good luck with your new mod!

It was the best $3000 I invested in my L.


D-day

 

I could truelly care less if the motor goes; I am at "peace" with it right now. But, I am very worried the headgaskets are going to go out in a big way before the block does! I think both of mine are at the least slightly warped. I'm getting some signs of it at the coolant tank.

 

There was detonation -- you just could not hear it. What else do you think caused the motor to break?

 

My injectors and maf were 80% at full throttle. I did 4 dyno runs and used wideband commander on the road.

I talked to alot of people with the same setup. After spending $8000, if anyone with knowledge would have told me I needed them I wouldn't have hesitated to get them.

I ran the EXACT same setup and tune that Dan03 ran and he made it to 10,000 miles. I even reduced my boost from his 16 to 14 for more safety.

All I'm saying is some engines will let go before others.

 

Weak rods giving way under too much hp.

 

Naw Tim.... These rods were designed and speced for a much lower combustion process. We certianly are pushing them to the edge. And quite a number of guys are pushing them over the edge.

If I had about $4grand laying around the FIRST thing I'd do is put a short block together.

Rich

 

The tune doesn't matter if the maf is pegged or you are out of injector. My meter pegged at 447 hp, before I got the sct meter, and my injectors are going static at 4700rpm at 15#'s of boost at 462 hp. I just ran an 11.79 @116.1 Yesterday. I definately need to get injectors soon.
I don't know how your meter isn't pegged at 460hp.

 

So guys will my 50 lb injectors be fine or sell them get some 60s?

Gonna get the SCT MAF.

Gonna get the 2 255 fuel pumps.


Any thing else ill need you think?



Thanks Bob

 

50's will be ok; there not a lot bigger than 42's, but good to about 600HP. The big difference is there is a lot more "tuning knoledge" out for the 60's. Basically 60's are going to be the new standard for big HP motors.

 

Ok guys its me again finally got everything together that you said i needed or its on its way....anyways where is a good starting point for the timing im only gonna run 14-16 lbs boost. Gonna get a dyno tune,the tuner just ask me to put that out there see what you all say food for thought.
Thanks Bob

 

My 03 is on the stock block with a KB, I had my tuner follow these strict instructions:

15-16 Lbs of Boost
Conservative Timing for 91 Octane
Shift points dropped to 5000
AF from 4500 to 5000 in the high 10's

Mod's:
Kenne Bell 3Lb Upper & 4Lb Lower
AiRaid Intake
Revolution Chip
100mm Idler Pulleys
Stock Headers w/cats
MagnaFlow Catback
NGK TR6's at .038
SCT Meter
Walbro 255's
60 Lb Injectors
FTVB & Deep Hughes Trans Pan
Traction Bars, Loop, Slicks, Line Lock
+ misc. stuff

I strongly feel that these long rod motors do not like being spun too hard, it seems every post I have read is that people are breaking rod's/blowing motors on the 1-2 or 2-3 shift. Obviously detonation is a killer as well. I backed the shift points down and it feels smoother and just as strong - detonation is not present with the rich A/F's and conservative timing.

My tune is a bit too rich right now, so it is going back in to have the fuel trims leaned out a bit more to get it just right for daily driveability. I tune on a Mustang Dyno by preference, I like tuning under a load. The truck put down 370 HP ( Street Tune KB ) on the Mustang Dyno - my previous Nitrous tune ( 13 Lb's Boost w/Eaton & Nitrous Race Tune - 50 shot sprayed at the intercooler ) was 382 HP, which netted me 12.0's in the 1/4 Mile. I have seen a 22% difference between the Mustang Dyno vs. a Local DynoJet that I have compared my pulls/Dyno sheets & numbers. So for people thinking 370 HP, this is a Mustang Dyno - using the 22% that I personally see between the two Dyno's put's me at 451 HP based upon the same DynoJet if I were to do a pull ( Which I plan on doing soon to see the actual number. )

Going back and leaning it out a bit more on the street tune should get me back to the same power level as my old Nitrous Tune. When the race tune is done in the same format, it should run 11.7-11.8's Range on a FAT/RICH tune with the truck shifting at 5000 RPM's on 101 Octane with a bit more timing.

This whole tuning strategy is a test for me to see if my idea is valid - so please dont start any bashing. I am hopeful to get some good data to share with the Lightning Community - this includes daily driving, 1/4 mile passes, and dyno numbers. My goal is to make good HP, but safe to keep the motor together. If it does blow, lesson learned and time to order a built motor - if not, hopefully it will be of value to others on this board.

Dan

 

Well; let me put this out there....

I ran great as have the other 2 L's here in town with a 9" 3" combo with A/F's in the 11.7~11.9 range and stock shift points

But, I was going to give it a shot and see how much it would take. (Mostly because I had a race with a stout LS1 coming up that weekend) So, I put a 9.75(8#)lower and 3" upper, put the A/F to 11.8~12.0 and moved the shift points to 5400ish(truck was bogging a little going into 3rd) Had the timing setup to run a max of 17 I had the gas mixed with xylene, and was hearing no detonation.

Well; it lasted for 3 WOT's that way. It broke #7 rod; did it just before it shifted into 3rd. It was making 21 or more #'s(wasn't looking at the guage to be sure) My guess from previous dyno's and the increased tune/boost/added C&L plenum I would say it was atleast putting down 530 to the wheels maybe closer to 540. It was pulling HARD!

From the looks of things I believe it just maxed out the HP ability of the rod; I didn't have any melted plugs, and no signs of detonation on the pistons. The higher shift points might have hurt it too. As the more RPM's put great multiples of stress on the rods. I'd love to have another stock block to try, but time to move on and see what I can do with a good set of rods

 

O yeah; here is #7 piston and half of the rod that I got out of the oil pan!

 

D'oh! Lots of carnage there.

What all are you going to do with the built shortblock? Meaning, what parts are you going with Casey?

 

that was very nice of you to post that reply on this thread

good luck with the new motor. i got a race with a guy friday who is gonna spin his KB built bottom truck to 24lbs

see what you got to look forward too.