Stock Block Kennebell Users
Stock Block Kennebell Users
Getting ready to add my Kenne run across a deal on it so had to get it before i get the block built any ways cant stand seeing it just setting around ....
What kinda boost are you running and how long have you run it without any problems im gonna get a dyno tune.
Thanks 4 any feed back guys....Bob
What kinda boost are you running and how long have you run it without any problems im gonna get a dyno tune.
Thanks 4 any feed back guys....Bob
I am one of 3 local guys pushing upwards of 20psi on our stock blocks. The other two have been running for quite some time with no real issues. I have had mine for only a week and have barely driven it because of bad weather and wanting to get it to my tuner so we can get it on the dyno.
The key is to have all the right parts and a good tune, I am not saying it wont blow up but ateast give it the best chance you can by adding the supporting parts and proper tune. Just bolting a KB on and running crazy boost is crazy, you peg you stock mass air and go lean instantly and boom. You need to feed these big boost motors lots of fuel and a conservative timing curve especially on pump gas. If you hear it pinging get out of the throttle for christ sake, common sense goes along way to making things live. I plan on running this boost level 24/7 just add a race tune for the track with lots of timing and race gas.
My truck has the following performance mods:
Custom tune
NGK tr6's @ .036
KB with 9" lower / 3" upper (20/21psi at the shift)
60lb injectors
SCT maf
Twin 255lph HP walbro's
Dynatech long tubes
Bassani cat back
FTVB
JLP traction bars
Lowered with 01 Leafs / FRPP kit / clunk washers / alignment
EGR delete
Air raid cool air box
C+L intake elbow
C+L plenum
FJO wideband - runs in the truck full time
Boost - FP - WT gauges
PCV mods
Nitto 555R drag radials
Bob
The key is to have all the right parts and a good tune, I am not saying it wont blow up but ateast give it the best chance you can by adding the supporting parts and proper tune. Just bolting a KB on and running crazy boost is crazy, you peg you stock mass air and go lean instantly and boom. You need to feed these big boost motors lots of fuel and a conservative timing curve especially on pump gas. If you hear it pinging get out of the throttle for christ sake, common sense goes along way to making things live. I plan on running this boost level 24/7 just add a race tune for the track with lots of timing and race gas.
My truck has the following performance mods:
Custom tune
NGK tr6's @ .036
KB with 9" lower / 3" upper (20/21psi at the shift)
60lb injectors
SCT maf
Twin 255lph HP walbro's
Dynatech long tubes
Bassani cat back
FTVB
JLP traction bars
Lowered with 01 Leafs / FRPP kit / clunk washers / alignment
EGR delete
Air raid cool air box
C+L intake elbow
C+L plenum
FJO wideband - runs in the truck full time
Boost - FP - WT gauges
PCV mods
Nitto 555R drag radials
Bob
Last edited by Bob Tompkins; Mar 17, 2005 at 09:21 PM.
Originally posted by Bob Tompkins
My peak hold boost gauge after a shakedown run on the KB, I did not let it get to the shift point
My peak hold boost gauge after a shakedown run on the KB, I did not let it get to the shift point
thank you 4 the info. Bob
Originally posted by Whitelighting
Very nice
i have all the mods you have and then some wanted to get the motor built but uncle sam seen fit me pay him 1st so we know how that goes....I have been watching a tuner here close by he does a great job setting up tunes on his dyno checks everything can change everything just this past weekend they set up a new built motor LB with a kennebell doing 22 psi on race tune it did 758 rwhp with race gas and a shot of nos..drive around tune was set at i think 525 rwhp at 16 lbs boost that motor had CNC ported heads said it takes alot more boost...I fell better now see what you have done there is a couple of thing i got to get the SCT MAF...got the 50 lb injectors got to get the 255 pumps think thats it. I dont plan on running no more than 14-15 lbs boost til motors built i dont run it hard any ways.
thank you 4 the info. Bob
Very nice
thank you 4 the info. Bob
Thanks again Bob
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That is a FJO wideband, one the best kits out there IMHO.
The wideband retail kit #KWB0221 (green display) is $465.00 but you need the sensor $190.00 to make it all work. The sensor is part# SO20001
You can get all the info here----->
http://wideband.jaxracing.com/index.html
PS. I am not affiliated with that site or company but it is where I got mine. My wideband has been in 3 different vehicle's over 3 years and its been dead on the money accurate.
Bob
The wideband retail kit #KWB0221 (green display) is $465.00 but you need the sensor $190.00 to make it all work. The sensor is part# SO20001
You can get all the info here----->
http://wideband.jaxracing.com/index.html
PS. I am not affiliated with that site or company but it is where I got mine. My wideband has been in 3 different vehicle's over 3 years and its been dead on the money accurate.
Bob
It's all in the tuning. As Bob said; I am one of the 3 running KB's on stock blocks in the area. Mine is one thing to look at, but the other guy is the one that is insaine! His 99' has over 120k miles on it, and the KB has been on it for well over a year. It's been over 500HP for longer than mine.
You want a tuner that has experience with setting up a KB stock block truck check with James at Running With the Devil. He's tuning 2 of the 3 trucks, and has influence on the 3rd(mines the 3rd)
You want a tuner that has experience with setting up a KB stock block truck check with James at Running With the Devil. He's tuning 2 of the 3 trucks, and has influence on the 3rd(mines the 3rd)
Basically; do it right, or blow it up. You can't get any simpler than that. Fuel system and tune is the key to it living; these motors are stronger than people think but only when you take care of them.
Originally posted by Casey02L
Basically; do it right, or blow it up. You can't get any simpler than that. Fuel system and tune is the key to it living; these motors are stronger than people think but only when you take care of them.
Basically; do it right, or blow it up. You can't get any simpler than that. Fuel system and tune is the key to it living; these motors are stronger than people think but only when you take care of them.
People say it's all in the tune.............
I had a dyno and a road tune by an actual chip maker, not just a tuner, had all the parts for safety (list below) and ran 14 lbs boost with a fat a/f. Pushing 460/540 @rear wheels.
I bent 2 rods with no detonation, no melted pistons.
Some engines are weaker than others.
I had a dyno and a road tune by an actual chip maker, not just a tuner, had all the parts for safety (list below) and ran 14 lbs boost with a fat a/f. Pushing 460/540 @rear wheels.
I bent 2 rods with no detonation, no melted pistons.
Some engines are weaker than others.
Dave02,
I see the fuel pumps in your sig but I don't see larger injectors or a MAF. I think these are necessary to run the KB safely as possible. The HP level you are at is usually the ragged edge of maxing the factory MAF and injectors.
I see the fuel pumps in your sig but I don't see larger injectors or a MAF. I think these are necessary to run the KB safely as possible. The HP level you are at is usually the ragged edge of maxing the factory MAF and injectors.
Last edited by LTNBOLT; Mar 18, 2005 at 01:22 PM.
Originally posted by LTNBOLT
Dave02,
I see the fuel pumps in your sig but I don't see larger injectors or a MAF. I think these are necessary to run the KB safely as possible. The HP level you are at is usually the ragged egde of maxing the factory MAF and injectors.
Dave02,
I see the fuel pumps in your sig but I don't see larger injectors or a MAF. I think these are necessary to run the KB safely as possible. The HP level you are at is usually the ragged egde of maxing the factory MAF and injectors.


