-Monty

 

Dunno... but i just pulled mine off and they had "SVT" stickers on them.

 

nope.

 

they are the same EXCEPT for the steering stop.Stan

 

what he said.

the only difference is that the SVT control arms have steering stops welded on so that the wide wheels don't rub.

I had a customer who had a steering stop break or fall off of one side and it chewed up the inside edge of the tire and ruined the aluminum wheel.

later,
chris

 

Anybody have a set of SVT upper & lower a-arms for sale?

-Monty

 

Contact Lightning Larry I think he used the DJM front lowering kit and might have the SVTs around.

 

Are you thinking of ditching the DJMs?

 

Yes, I'm considering swapping the DJM arms.

I sincerely think there is something wrong with my kit. The "suspension" seems to come loose every couple of thousand miles. After the DJM front was first installed, a few bolts came loose 3 weeks after. The bolts then came loose again about 6 months after that (2,000 miles or so). The suspenion has been feeling unusually "loose" and after checking things (mostly just tugging on things a bit) out this morning, I found the bolts were loose again! The bolts that bolt through the bushings in the arms have a loose fit.

Something came up and I was unable to make it to the shop for the bumpsteer yesterday so my explanation above is by no means a professional diagnosis; just my thoughts.

I want to pick up a set of stock arms as back up should at the time of the bumpsteer kit install, the shop determines the DJM kit is "fuxored" up. If the arms or some other component is fuxored up, I'm going to install the stock arms back on with my old 3" BellTech coils and Nitro Active shocks.

What I find very interesting is that neither you nor Larry have complained about any "loose" steering. If you drove my L, you would probably shiot yourself Tim. Driving on perfect pavement isn't so bad but once I hit a poor street or section of highway, I'm all over the place.

-Monty

 

I don't mean to insult you, but are you sure that you have all the right bushings? Should be:

bolt
inner metal sleeve (goes around bolt)
outer metal sleeve (goes around inner sleeve)
urethane bushing
control arm

The DJM pivot system seems better than stock. The arms pivot on two sleeves. The inner sleeve is a little longer than the outer sleeves, so there is just enough play (.05") that, when the bolts are tightened, the arm is cradled, but not pinched, by the mounting tabs on the frame. That way, you can tighten the snot out of them without restricting the arm travel.

The used ones I bought were, despite DJM's repeated warnings to the contrary, never drilled to allow the grease to pass through the urethane bushing and outer sleeve into the outer/inner sleeve gap. As a result, everything was a rusted and scarred f'ing mess. Have you had yours apart to see if this procedure was followed?

 

BTW, Monty -- if'n you give up on the DJMs, I will give you my stock control arms.

 

Thanks Tim, but I can't take them for free. How does this week for you? How about this weekend? (shoot me an email: armando.montalvo@att.net)

BTW, I didn't do the original install. The original install was done by Custom Truck Shop (L&G Enterprises) in San Dimas. The day after the install I discovered they had a done a rush job. The day I drove off I didn't hear it, but the next day I found the driveshaft hitting the bed frame because they had failed to install the rear shim(s). At the same time, they told me they had to retighten endlinks and reinstall the tie-rod ends.

-Monty