All right, how 'bout this one? It appears that you bought this thing used, and as it's a 2000 model, possibly VERY used. I'm guessing you know little of its history.

Let's say, for example, that it spit a plug at some point. Regardless of how this was remedied, it likely required the removal and either replacement or refurbishment of one of the heads. It's within the realm of possibility that the mechanic performing the work didn't get the timing of the cam right upon reassembly. I would assume that the ECU gets a camshaft position reading off just one of the cams, which for this exercise, could be the one that WASN'T in the head that was removed. So the ECU would never know that the single cam in question was out of whack, timing-wise.

I bring this up because a bud of mine who is an very skilled independent mechanic drove himself nearly to the nuthouse and poorhouse simultaneously trying to diagnose this very same situation with an OHC V6 in a Dodge Intrepid.

Really, you need to drive the thing around under every conceivable situation while somebody "skilled in the art" sits in the passenger's seat with a laptop running AutoTap. Take a look at every sensor you can map.

Also, the leak-down test on every cylinder will rule out a pile of things, including every imaginable type of piston, ring, cylinder wall, valve, and valve seat damage. You may also want to get a fiber optic camera down each spark plug hole and check that the valves are actuating in each cylinder. Maybe you have a dead follower or something.

If everything is solid mechanically, then you can look elsewhere. Obstructions in the intake tract (from the filter right through to the intake valves) or exhaust (clogged cats or worse) are a possibility. Following that, perhaps look at the fuel system.

Definitely get a good tune from a reputable tuner. On a Dyno.

 

Leo,

Wasn't trying to kick you in the Jimmy with the previous post.

However, the statement is true and the advice Mr. 2K-SVT and others is sound with exception (see below). Something is seriously wrong with your truck.

Instead of additional mods and for about the same cost as a throttle body, how about springing for an scan tool (AutoTap is good) AND dedicated laptop. A used one off of eBay for $150 will work just fine.

This way, you can monitor parameters, data log, etc. while gaining insight and experience in lieu of throwing MORE mod $$ at an obviously sick vehicle in an attempt to be faster and/or spring for a new engine when and as your current one dies a miserable death.

Now, as to counter the BOLD assertion that a 484 HP vehicle with wheels from an Hyundai Elantra can trap at 105. It is Because thE Elantra has a Furious Charge of hAppy gas lurKing in the Engine compartment anyway. You crafty bastage.

Revel in its/his might and the truth shall set you free, or something.

All hail,

Bob

 

Nice Numbers --- You still have MORE

 

i just got off the phone with Tim from REM, im going to be making an appointment to bring him the truck and have him look at the hole thing...find out whats holding the truck back and go from there...im ready the get a builtshortnblock, a full exhaust, new injectors, and pumps...but i need to find out whats wrong with the truck first..so im taking it down in about 2 weeks..hopefully we can diagnose the problem before something breaks...

 

I truly can't wait to read A Leo post that says
"FOUND THE PROB, AND THE L IS NOW RUNNING LIKE A RAPED APE"

Hand in there Leo, you'll figure it out soon.

 

thanks guys for all your posts...i love this board. and its good to see that you guys actually care and encourge me to hang in ther and figure out the problem, so i can be running like i should...every time i have a bad day i can come online and talk to you guys and you make it better! i just wanna say thanks to everybody...and no doubt in time you will be seeing a post that says new 11 sec. member...and then on to the 10's

 

Hey Leo hang in there...you'll find the problem soon enough.