I just had the 4# lower, a chip, ftvb, silver bullet exhaust and 16" nitto drag radials. I even went 12.7 on stock f1's if you want to compare them to times on f1's. (similar 60 foot times) I didnt wanna ruin your moment and say anything about the times with the kb, but like Speedin Bob said... 12. 80 could have been done on the "Heaton."
Shane

 

yes, i know this! that is why i know there is something wrong...with a 2lb upper, volant cold air intake, and a diablo chip it went 13.4 @ 100mph on slicks...and i put on a 4lb lower and the KB, with some straight pipes, and the T/B and it only went 12.80 i was kinda upset...i guess i will talk to my tuner..cuz i made 484rwph on the dyno with a 11.5 A/F ratio...maybe its a lack of traction bars? or maybe my tire prssure in the slicks were to low to keep pulling up top...what pressure should they be at?

 

Leo:

With your mods, and you can take "track prep" out of the equation (slicks and the accompanying 1.87 60-foot), as well as the atmospheric conditions (70 degrees is decent enough air) and Florida altitude...

...you should be running very, very deep in the 12's, at the least. In fact, you don't see a whole lot of Kenne Bell trucks NOT running at least 11's. Your MPH is only about 2-3 MPH better than a strong-running 03 or 04 stocker in that kind of air, indicating to me that you are maybe 20-30 RWHP stronger than said stocker (380 RWHP, maybe).

A strong-running 03 or 04 on slicks in 70-degree air (and with a decent driver) could probably run 12.9/104, I would guess.

This indicates to me that with an aftermarket screw supercharger and a pile of bolt-ons, you are possibly 1 or 2 tenths quicker and 2 or 3 MPH faster than a comparably-tired stocker.

Chief, like I've told you several times over the last few months, you have something seriously wrong with your truck. If you keep slapping on mods to compensate, you're going to blow the thing up.

Start with the easy stuff. Make sure all of the injectors are connected. Count the spark plugs - there should be eight, no more, no less. Simple stuff like that. No shop rags stuffed in the intake.

By way of reference, I ran 12.9/107 with a FULL-weight 2000 model, pump gas, F1's at 32 PSI, 700+ feet track altitude, stock 80 mm MAF...

Only mods were a lower pulley (13 PSI of boost on stock Eaton), soft-tuned chip, modded stock airbox, and FTVB. And this is far from abnormal.

Please get the thing looked at. Maybe, since your warranty is already hopelessly shot, consider taking it into a Ford dealership and having it hooked up to the computer. Just a thought.

 

Leo:

No way does a 484 RWHP Lightning trap at 105 MPH. Maybe you need to try another dyno.

And no, the tires will not explain that, either. Give me 484 RWHP and two temporary spares off a Hyundai Elantra and I'll trap at over 105, guaranteed.

Your lack of traction bars won't explain it, either, but it WILL explain when you pole-vault on your snapped driveshaft.

 

https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...highlight=dyno

I still think you have too little timing. It's safer; but, it's gonna hurt performance.

 

this is bull****..im sick of my ****ing truck....from the start the goddamn thing was ****ing slow..no reason to spend all this money for nothing...3,000 supercharger and i barley get into the 12's, i just changed the plugs, they are all there, no engine codes, i think i just may get rid of it, and get another L. and start over.. its really depressing to see all you guys out there running a pulley, chip and, intake and running exactly what i am running...

 

Leo:

Find one of the experienced old-timers in your area, hopefully one with a fast-as-a-mother Lightning, buy him a couple cases of Sierra Nevada, and let him spend a couple of hours checking out your ride.

A leakdown test on all eight cylinders might be a good place to start.

There has to be something very, very wrong, and I'ts clear to me that it's been wrong for a very long time.

I konw that there are fellow Lightning brethren out there who could sniff out such a problem without too much trouble.

Something just doesn't add up.

Race with some of your F-Body or Cobra buddies from a roll, at various speeds. You should be able to stomp all but the most heavily-modded ones. Run it up to very high speeds, if you dare, without blowing it up. How does it pull at 120 MPH?

Get a G-Tech and find a good safe stretch of road for testing. Apply scientific principles. Test every mod and change individually.

What sort of fuel mileage are you getting?

What happens if you mash the throttle to the floor on street tires from a stop? If you move more than about 50 feet before it hits OD, you are down some serious horsepower.

Is your tranny fried? Find somebody with a LOW mileage stocker and compare.

Just some thoughts. It could be anything, and you've made the analytical task much, MUCH worse by modding the bejeezus out of it (introducing confounding variables) without solving the underlying problem. Live and learn.

 

Leo, ? - how much boost are you showing on your initial WOT, where does that needle jump immediately, before she starts to build to 15?

Just in case I can't get to a computer tonight the reason I ask is - when I installed my second KB (I don't know the name of the part) on the drivers side of the KB there is a small silver arm, maybe two inches long running parallel to the base of the KB pointed towards the front of your L, at the tip (front) of the arm is a screw (tip of the screw points straight up just below the arm) that controls the open/close of a boost valve - if that screw is not allowing the arm to rest at it's lowest point then boost could be escaping (or not building quickly). I had to adjust mine (as in lower the screw so the arm could rest at it's lowest point). Once it was fixed I could instantly feel the difference.

I am dialed at 16 lbs, on my initial WOT I jump immediately to 12 lbs and then build to 16, just for a reference.

There is a possibility that you may need the adjustment. Just back off the screw to the point it is no longer touching the arm.

You will need to take out the black braket holding the multiple vacuum lines and boost valve connector etc to easily get to the screw.

Good Luck. I agree with the posts above with that hp you should be in the very low 12's if not 11's.

D-Day

 

...are you ABSOLUTELY, 100% sure that you IC pump is circulating fluid through the IC core whenever the engine is running? For example, your reservoir may be full, but the pump might not be running.

Just a thought.

 

thanks dan...punching the truck from a 40 roll..ide say it jumps to about 12-13 lbs and then builds the 15...ive raced a stock 03 cobra and we were door to door..i was upset about that.., ive ran it up to 130 or so, and it pulls just fine..i have a G-tech and i havent goten a long enough road to test a 1/4 mile, but my 0-60 was 4.5 on the slicks at the 1/8 track...fuel milage is as normal, i drove to orlando and back about 280miles..on 1 tank..hitting it from a stop on the f1's it just breaks loose all through 1st gear and cathces in 2nd..i know a buddy in town with a built motor, KB, in the 600/700 club, that i will talkin to sometime soon...hese hard to get a hold off..i want my truck to run right...its pretty sad that i cant run with the best of them...when i have done the mods that ive done...really sad...

 

Leo:

Something sure isn't right. I'm pulling G-Tech 0-60's of around 4 seconds flat at the track on F1's.

Also, the burnout catching in 2nd gear isn't at all right. Recall that I have the 3.55 rear end, and on a throttle stomp it will wind right up into overdrive, and catch shortly after the shift into OD, all in the span of about a 100-foot burnout.

On a WOT 1-2 shift in cool, crisp air, the tires will boil and it will head right for 3rd gear, with the tailgate trying to pass the driver to the right.

Get you bud to look at it and bribe him well.

 

Leo I dont think your problems are in traction. Before you get traction bars, I'd listen to what the guys above are saying. It could be in the install, the intercooler, or the tune. I dont know.
If your problem was traction, you would still be trapping higher mph. I'd say it could be in the tune, or it could be anything. I dont know these KB's that well yet. But like everyone else said, find someone else who has the kb on their truck and have them take a ride in your truck first. Go from there. Good luck getting it back on track. Don't get frusterated. You've already done the hard part. (that's spending $3,000 on the KB) Don't blow your ***** up man. Good luck getting it where you want it.
Shane

 

well if all else fails, you can just give me the kenne bell and ill put it on my truck and show you my time slips....

j/k with ya... i dont know much about this stuff, i just got into the lightning thing about 3 months ago.... but from what iv heard a chip, pulley and a few other things will get ya high 12... so i would expect if you are a good driver, you should maybe even break into 11s?????

 

yeah with the kb tuned right even on a safe tune, you can see 11's can't ya? That's whats real nice about it. I just dont have the $3,000 to get the upgraded blower. Good luck leo on getting it tuned right. You'll get it.
Shane

 

first I've seen of this, and I fell for ya Leo.


As has been said before, stop hammering on the truck, and find the cause, before the truck blows. From the readings of your posts, it seems to me, that there has been a problem from the get go. But now with all the mods, it will be hard to trace the cause.
You might have to bite the bullet and take a road trip to one of the big Lightning tuners and have them go over your truck. Or just lay low, until they travel to your part of the country for race season.

Good Luck bro