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L/T Header Install Help Needed

Old Mar 26, 2003 | 11:29 PM
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From: Cuttin' Heads with Jack Butler at the CrossRoads!
L/T Header Install Help Needed

I've searched through all the old threads and haven't been able to find the right answer.

Problem: Lower stud, passenger side, second from back of engine. What the heck did you do to get the nut tightened?

I"m using the stock studs/bolts. There doesn't seem to be enough clearance to get a 13mm socket in there. Thought about using a head bolt that came with the kit, but there's not enough room for the 10mm socket for that. Also, can't use an open end wrench, there's not enough room between the pipes.

Did you have to use a 1/4 socket extension set? I"m thinking the 3/8 we were using might just be too big.

Thanks,

Bob
 
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Old Mar 27, 2003 | 07:54 AM
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From: Cuttin' Heads with Jack Butler at the CrossRoads!
ttt
 
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Old Mar 27, 2003 | 07:59 AM
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From: Motor City
You have a PM.

--Joe
 
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Old Mar 27, 2003 | 08:24 AM
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From: Cuttin' Heads with Jack Butler at the CrossRoads!
Right back at ya!
 
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Old Mar 27, 2003 | 11:08 AM
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From: ct
I took a 13mm wrench, and cut it in half(maybe a little less than half) it took about 15 min to tighten a quarter turn at a time, drivers side is much much easier. hope this helps
 
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Old Mar 27, 2003 | 12:09 PM
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From: PDX
The best tools for installing headers - reversible ratcheting wrenches.

These have a 5 degree ratchet angle, so they work well even when you are working between two header tubes. I wouldn't want to install headers without them.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2003 | 12:46 PM
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From: Central Joisey
I used bolts on most of the lowers on the passenger side, stock studs everywhere else.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2003 | 01:38 PM
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Thanks for the responses guys. I bought some of those ratcheting type wrenches. They've been a god send. I just don't have enough clearance between the stud and the pipe to fit it in.

Soap's got my hookup in the way of a modified 13mm wrench. Hopefully that does the trick, otherwise it's loads of duct tape.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2003 | 01:42 PM
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From: ct
I had doubles of a 13mm open end, so I cut it in half, it was the only thing that worked on that same bottom stud.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2003 | 02:01 PM
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From: PDX
Originally posted by Chainsaw13
Thanks for the responses guys. I bought some of those ratcheting type wrenches. They've been a god send. I just don't have enough clearance between the stud and the pipe to fit it in.
Missed that part, sorry. I used bolts all the way around, and haven't had any problems (leaks). Plus, the installation was easier with bolts.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2003 | 03:03 PM
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From: Cuttin' Heads with Jack Butler at the CrossRoads!
Originally posted by wkuper11
I had doubles of a 13mm open end, so I cut it in half, it was the only thing that worked on that same bottom stud.
I have to run by Sears anyway, so I"m might just pick up another wrench and shorten it myself. Thanks for the tip.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2003 | 09:29 PM
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Well, I bought a stubby 13mm wrench. That did the trick. What a pain though. wkuper, you were right. Took about 10-15 mins to completely tighten. Sounds awesome though right now with just the cats on. Need to get some new midpipes fabbed up to connect my Bassani.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2003 | 09:59 PM
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From: ct
I had to drive around for a day with the longtubes and cat pipes, my silverbullet catback was a bit crimped so I had to get it flared out a bit. It was LOUD without the mufflers! I had to coast by a couple cops, everyones head would turn when I drove by. Its still loud even with the mufflers
 
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Old Mar 27, 2003 | 10:00 PM
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From: Greater Boston
wrench is the trick!!!

figured out i had to that as soon as i put th headers up to the block. On of the studs was so close to the pipe, i had to put the nut up against the flange and pull the header away from the motor........slipped it over the end of the stud and with the nut up against the header, tighten the nut as you pushed the header flush against the block.....mental note to yall.......remember i said this.

I used my electric chain saw sharpener to hack my wrech to about 1/3 it's size, then put the box end on the nut when it was fairly tight, then used a 12" pry bar to finish the torquing.
 
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