L/T Header Install Help Needed
L/T Header Install Help Needed
I've searched through all the old threads and haven't been able to find the right answer.
Problem: Lower stud, passenger side, second from back of engine. What the heck did you do to get the nut tightened?
I"m using the stock studs/bolts. There doesn't seem to be enough clearance to get a 13mm socket in there. Thought about using a head bolt that came with the kit, but there's not enough room for the 10mm socket for that. Also, can't use an open end wrench, there's not enough room between the pipes.
Did you have to use a 1/4 socket extension set? I"m thinking the 3/8 we were using might just be too big.
Thanks,
Bob
Problem: Lower stud, passenger side, second from back of engine. What the heck did you do to get the nut tightened?
I"m using the stock studs/bolts. There doesn't seem to be enough clearance to get a 13mm socket in there. Thought about using a head bolt that came with the kit, but there's not enough room for the 10mm socket for that. Also, can't use an open end wrench, there's not enough room between the pipes.
Did you have to use a 1/4 socket extension set? I"m thinking the 3/8 we were using might just be too big.
Thanks,
Bob
The best tools for installing headers - reversible ratcheting wrenches.
These have a 5 degree ratchet angle, so they work well even when you are working between two header tubes. I wouldn't want to install headers without them.
These have a 5 degree ratchet angle, so they work well even when you are working between two header tubes. I wouldn't want to install headers without them.
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Thanks for the responses guys. I bought some of those ratcheting type wrenches. They've been a god send. I just don't have enough clearance between the stud and the pipe to fit it in.
Soap's got my hookup in the way of a modified 13mm wrench. Hopefully that does the trick, otherwise it's loads of duct tape.
Soap's got my hookup in the way of a modified 13mm wrench. Hopefully that does the trick, otherwise it's loads of duct tape.
Originally posted by Chainsaw13
Thanks for the responses guys. I bought some of those ratcheting type wrenches. They've been a god send. I just don't have enough clearance between the stud and the pipe to fit it in.
Thanks for the responses guys. I bought some of those ratcheting type wrenches. They've been a god send. I just don't have enough clearance between the stud and the pipe to fit it in.
Originally posted by wkuper11
I had doubles of a 13mm open end, so I cut it in half, it was the only thing that worked on that same bottom stud.
I had doubles of a 13mm open end, so I cut it in half, it was the only thing that worked on that same bottom stud.
Well, I bought a stubby 13mm wrench. That did the trick. What a pain though. wkuper, you were right. Took about 10-15 mins to completely tighten. Sounds awesome though right now with just the cats on. Need to get some new midpipes fabbed up to connect my Bassani.
I had to drive around for a day with the longtubes and cat pipes, my silverbullet catback was a bit crimped so I had to get it flared out a bit. It was LOUD without the mufflers! I had to coast by a couple cops, everyones head would turn when I drove by. Its still loud even with the mufflers
wrench is the trick!!!
figured out i had to that as soon as i put th headers up to the block. On of the studs was so close to the pipe, i had to put the nut up against the flange and pull the header away from the motor........slipped it over the end of the stud and with the nut up against the header, tighten the nut as you pushed the header flush against the block.....mental note to yall.......remember i said this.
I used my electric chain saw sharpener to hack my wrech to about 1/3 it's size, then put the box end on the nut when it was fairly tight, then used a 12" pry bar to finish the torquing.
I used my electric chain saw sharpener to hack my wrech to about 1/3 it's size, then put the box end on the nut when it was fairly tight, then used a 12" pry bar to finish the torquing.


