the new computer idea is something i would try. if not i would try to get a built motor...remember: always replace with upgraded parts

as per your sig kegger, i've started modding. what ideas would you like?

 

So you guys think that if I replace the computer and remove all the other parts I should be ok? Whats a computer cost? Does ford refer to it as the ECU or PCM? Also, should I replace my K&N with a motorcraft one to be extra covered? Thanks for all the help.

 

I have done alot of reserch on painting the contacts and regluing them just in case this happens to me. I have found out that if you paint the contacts the color they where before you put the chip in then buy rubber cement and put on the contacts.Hope i helped but maybee someone that has does this before can chime in.

 

I would have quite a court battle if a manufacturer voided my warranty over a drop in air filter and would move on to another manufacturer if the warranty was voided. I wouldn't worry about the air filter and as far as replacing your computer I'm a bit confused. Any parts or work done by a delership is logged in for the history of the vehicle. So if you order a new computer and then have them pick it up for problems I'm thinking a redflag will be thrown up. All you can do is hope the dealership or service writer is a decent guy and tries to do what's right. As far as the masses saying Ford shouldn't be responsible is crap. They built this truck knowing damn well there will be a huge aftermarket for it and if motor's keep blowing with a few minor mods proves that Ford does make inconsistent qulaity products which I have quite a bit of experience with. A bad chip reburn is another story but upgrading a few mechanical parts and having problems is uncalled for.

 

Well yes AND no. It depends on how much boost you plan to use and of course the main ?, how long do you want it to last? With 8-10psi (total) I would say you'd be very safe with 12 being the max that I would think of going without more internal work being done. The Nav engine has 9.5 to 1 compression.
If you expect to have alot of boost I think you can expect many problems to arise with the 5.4. Not the rods, but top of the block flexing under very high boost/stress is what I've heard is the MORE questionable item.

 

Everybody has a right to their opinion.
I disagree with you on this one. YES Ford should over-build their products to some degree, but to what degree?
Why should I as a manufacturer build you a vehicle that with 380 hp stock should be able for you to mod it to say 500hp or should I build it to let you mod it to 450, 600, 700........ALL WITH A FACTORY WARRANTY
Where do I buy one of thoseI'll take 2 please

 

I figured I would order the chip from another dealer than the one I am taking it to. Can they still track that? And does anyone know how much a chip costs?

 

latemodelracer2-

what color are the contacts before they are scraped clean, I can't remember? Do you guys think this route of repainting and rubber cement would work? I don't want to chance anything? Just found out a computer is $350 if you turn in your old one, and $450 if you don't. So $450 is probably what I am looking at.

 

Minor mods....a few mechanical parts......Yea Right.....whats minor to us and Ford..........miles apart......

 

Just get a new computer and have someone with an NGS program it for you. You'll save a bunch in the long run.

 

easterisland-

If I ordered a new computer from ford wouldn't it come preprogrammed? I was under the assumption that it would. Correct me if I am wrong. Thanks for the input.

 

Do you mean the tip was twisted? Because they are all 'twisted round and round' or 'spiraled' in the middle section.........Did you ever change the oil in that truck? Just making sure.........

 

JBLSilver01-

I have had the oil changed twice, but had never previously looked at the dipstick. It is spiralled/ twisted at the end and all the way up, is that how they come? Sorry for my ignorance on the subject, you guys are helping me immensely. Also, as I stated earlier, my oil pressure is at 0, and I can see underneath the truck that it all drained out. Couldn't find any holes in the block though. The oil seemed to be dripping from a copper/gold cylindrical shaped piece down near the bottom of the block. What is that gold thing? And what do you think may have happened? Thanks for you time and help.

 

Well the first inch is twisted, then there is a 4" or so section that is flat - the 'read' section, then about a foot is twisted, then the the rest up to the handle is flat.......at least thats how mine is.

 

I've typed many responses to this thread but have never clicked on the Submit button.

But, I must say that this thread is enjoyable to read.