Listen, John. No one said this was going to be an easy fix. The engineers and legal team at FoMoCo that were over this particular 'sophisticated' system wanted to make it so that one couldn't inadvertently reset the system rendering it useless.

Suck it up. Stop crying about it. Geesh... I tell ya. You try to help a guy out with the proper procedure (even including calling the Suquamish Tribe Leader) and he just boo-hoos about it...

I'm done with helping you, pal.




No -- seriously. I'll try to remember to pull that email up for you tonight and post the procedure. I'm not sure if the Explorer procedure would be the same as the F-150 procedure (or if it'd even work)... Quintin, you out there, man?

 

No it doesnt say anything about using a magnetic. Remember I am referencing my 07 workshop manual.
Lenny, This is really not a big deal. The TPMS reset controller is only 12 bucks on Ebay for you to own one your self, or if you are by a Ford dealer you just swing it thru a service bay and they will walk out and reset it for you. Not a big deal if you ask me. Problem is you are out of the country.

 

lol - sounds like the same procedure that i used to de-activate the seat belt chime.

 

Way to funny RockPick! But I do remember in additional to all that, with your other hand, wiping the seats down with KR Conditioner!

Lenticular, I do have a Great-Grandmother from Wales too. In the Wells, Glamorgan area.

 

Thanks for all the input folks.....(Not too sure about yours Brad!)

WreedKR....Thanks for the info about the reset tool....didn't know there was something specific for that job.
I have found a few on Ebay though they seem to be for 2006 and later vehicles.

I will swing by our local (Very small) dealership but I don't hold out much hope of them having the right equipment to help out.

(They are more used to dealing with muddy Land Rovers that have been chasing sheep over the hillsides!)

Thanks for all the encouragement though !

 

It is basically a key on key off procedure to put the TPMS system in to learn mode. Remember I am reading this info from my 07 workshop manuals so it might be a little different.

 

Here's the procedure that I was given for our 2004 Explorer... again, not sure if this will work for yours, John...

Sorry it's taken me so long to post it...

Sensor Training

NOTE: The tire pressure sensor training procedure must be done in an
area without radio frequency (RF) noise.

RF noise is generated by electrical motor and appliance operation,
cellular telephones, and remote transmitters.


Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position three times, ending in the
RUN position. Do not wait more than two minutes between each key cycle.
Press and release the brake pedal.
Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
Turn the ignition switch from the OFF position to the RUN position three
times, ending in the RUN position. Do not wait more than two minutes
between each key cycle.
The horn will sound once and the TPMS indicator will flash if train mode
has been entered successfully. If equipped, the message center displays
"TRAIN LEFT FRONT TIRE". Place the magnet on the valve stem of the LF
tire pressure sensor. The horn will sound briefly to indicate that the
tire pressure sensor has been recognized by the TPMS module.
Within two minutes after the horn sounds, place the magnet on the valve
stem of the RF tire pressure sensor.
NOTE: If the TPMS module does not recognize any one of the four tire
pressure sensors during the tire training procedure, the horn will sound
twice and the message center (if equipped) will display "TIRE TRAINING
MODE INCOMPLETE". If this occurs, the entire procedure must be repeated
from Step 1.

Repeat Step 7 for the RR and LR tires.
When the tire training procedure is complete, the horn will sound once
and the message center (if equipped) will display "TIRE TRAINING MODE
COMPLETE".

-RP-

 

Good grief, RP! I can't help thinking your original "procedure" was somewhat easier.

The software engineers at Ford really come up with some "doozys", don't they?

- Jack

 

Hi Brad..
Thanks for that....

I dismantled an old clock radio and got the magnet out assuming that the circular effect would work best......and it did !
Until I came to the last tire..the left rear which is the one that caused the problems in the first place.
It will not reset...maybe it wasn't installed the right way..is there a wrong or right way ?
Anyway its good to know that the reset procedure, complex as it is, DOES work.
Thanks Brad.
Perhaps if the local Ford dealer at least takes of the wheel and checks the sensor is properly installed, that might help.

Cheers

John

 

I still can't help but wonder if the wiring to/from the sensor is OK?

One way to check would be to exchange the "faulty" one with one on another wheel that is known to be good. Now if the left rear does not reset, but the new wheel does, you'd know the sensor is fine but that the wiring to the left rear is faulty.

Of course, I suppose getting the sensor out involves deflating the tire - does it also require demounting the tire too? If this is the case, it's not an easy "do it yourself" job.

- Jack

 

They are not wired..they are " WiFi" !!

Its too much of a coincidence that the wheel that won't reset is the one that had the initial problem !

 

I've tried this procedure on my wife's Explorer...

I can get it into 'TRAIN' mode but, it won't go any farther than that. My suspecion is that the first tire (LF) is the faulty sensor and thus, I can't train it. No way to know though...

The magnet that you're using can't be that strong... I was using one that could suck a steel ball through a 100 meter garden hose and was getting NOTHING.

Were you just touching the magnet to the valve step (minus the cap) and it immediately 'honked' to tell you to move to the next? Also, stupid question here -- LF = drivers' front, correct?

 

Really? You're not kidding here that they are wireless?

Way too much of a coincidence that the new sensor is bad too, and, just how much chance is there that the sensor can be installed incorrectly? My problem, of course, is that I've never seen one of these things up close and personal, so I don't really know what might go wrong.

Janet's Toyota has this feature, but somehow I thought the sensor was mounted inside, in the wheel.

- Jack

 

It was a small circular magnet with a hole in the middle that the valve stem just fitted through....it was just perfect for the job, and the first 3 wheels performed and 'honked' just as described. But as I said it all fell down on the last tire (LR) which as I said is where the problem first arose as a slow puncture, though it proved to be a faulty valve.

The magnet was not that strong but as I said worked perfectly.

Its all avery odd procedure though, isn't it ??!

Sorry Jack.....we must have posted at exactly the same time and I didn't see your reply.....Yes..they really are wireless.....but until a week ago I didn't understand anything about this system either....I always wondered how they worked but never questioned it...until it went pear shaped!!!

 

What an amazing system (when it works right)!

In reading Brad's post again, I see that you'll get a "double honk" if the computer does not "recognize" the sensor. I'm assuming that's what you got? (And, I'm guessing it occurs at the end of the time-out period when it thinks it didn't see a sensor in the allowed time).

Sure seems to me like your "homemade" tool is good enough if it caused the system to see the other three sensors.

Sorry, I'm totally out of "helpful" suggestions! (Except it would still be instructive to swap that sensor with one of the others to see what happens).

- Jack