In my mind, that settles it -- My LF sensor is the problem. I've used a couple of fairly heavy duty magnets and it refuses to work on the first tire.

Again though, the LF tire *is* the drivers' front, correct? I know it's a dumb question but, that's how I roll...

 

Thats the sequence mine went through...

LF (Left Front)
RF (Right Front)
RR (Right Rear)
LR (Left Rear)

My magnet was not particularly strong off a small 2 " loudspeaker and the first 3 tires worked fine and after just a few seconds delay the horn honked each time except for the faulty last one.
You seem to be coming unstuck because the first one in the sequence is the faulty one.

 

I wonder, Rockpick, if it might be the "way" you are using your magnet? Lenny said he is using a circular magnet that fits around the valve stem. This means he has to move it back up the stem after putting it down the stem to "train" the system. If your magnet doesn't fit around the stem, then you could easily move the magnet away without bringing it back up. This may not train the system properly.

Then again, maybe the magnet HAS to be circular to work properly?

I dunno, just "thinking" again - something I have plenty of time for now that I'm retired.

- Jack

 

Fair question... but, I doubt that the shape of the magnet would make a difference. At least in my mind it wouldn't... who knows?

I'll try to give it another go but, it seemingly goes into train mode just fine... it's that I can't go beyond the first tire. I tend to concur with John in that it's likely that my LF tire is the faulty one and thus, I can move no farther...

 

The 07s the sensor is mounted to the outer part of the wheel with a metal strap.

 

My workshop manual states to hold the "tool" or magnet in yalls case 180 degrees of the valve stem. Also says may take up to 6 seconds to activate.

 

the magnet is for the type with a valve stem sensor. then ones that use the tool you hold across from the stem are the band type sensors.

 

gotcha thanks!

 

Sensor Training (Reset Procedure)

NOTE: The tire pressure monitoring system is not affected by wheel and tire rotation.

NOTE: The tire pressure sensor training procedure must be done on a single vehicle, in an area without radio frequency (RF) noise.

RF noise is generated by electrical motor and appliance operation, cellular telephones, and remote transmitters.


1. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
2. Turn the ignition switch from the OFF position to the RUN position three times, ending in the RUN position. Do not wait more than two minutes between each key cycle.
3. Press and release the brake pedal.
4. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
5. Turn the ignition switch from the OFF position to the RUN position three times, ending in the RUN position. Do not wait more than two minutes between each key cycle.





6. The horn will sound once and the TPMS indicator will flash if train mode has been entered successfully. If equipped, the message center displays "TRAIN LEFT FRONT TIRE", place the magnet on the valve stem of the LF tire pressure sensor. The horn will sound briefly to indicate that the tire pressure sensor has been recognized by the TPMS module.
7. Within two minutes after the horn sounds, place the magnet on the valve stem of the RF tire pressure sensor.

NOTE: If the TPMS module does not recognize any one of the four tire pressure sensors during the tire training procedure, the horn will sound twice and the message center (if equipped) will display "TIRE TRAINING MODE INCOMPLETE" and the procedure must be repeated.

8. Repeat Step 7 for the RR and LR tires.
When the tire training procedure is complete, the horn will sound once and the message center (if equipped) will display "TIRE TRAINING MODE COMPLETE".

 

Good information Paralyzer - it says the pressure sensor system is a "true" pressure sensor and not just an add-on to the ABS that detects a differing rotation speed in an under-inflated tire (compared to the ones with normal inflation).

Of course, any of these systems are pretty pathetic overall. My understanding of them is that they don't activate until you are about 20% underinflated. I'd really like something that put up a warning at 5%.

But, if you have a "slow" leak or puncture, these things might save you a tire.

Once apon a time I drove my former truck down the dirt/rocky/switchback road from the top of the Chirachaua Mountains here in Arizona. As I reached the lower stretches (still on dirt) where I could speed up to about 50 mph, I heard a "funny" noise from the back. Sounded almost like a big load of firewood I had in the bed "vibrating". I fiinally decided to stop and found a totally shredded right rear tire. No "pull", no "drag", no blowout "explosion".

Wish I'd had a tire pressure sensor!

- Jack

 

I just wish ours would consistently work... LOL!

Interesting info on the 6-seconds thing. I know I held it down there for WAY more than 6-seconds (using a parts tray magnet like THIS ONE)...

It sure seems like the duo of magnets on the tray would be ample to work based upon the use of a very small circular magnet working for John...

 

My small circular magnet works fine and takes about 15 seconds for each wheel to respond.....except the wheel that doesn't of course.
The next step is to change the rear wheels around and see if the problem moves to RR instead of LR !!!

 

I'll be surprised if it does NOT move, Lenny. Is it too hard to simply swap the sensors themselves? This way you'd know if it was the sensor itself or maybe whatever it mounts into.

BUT, Brad, this might be a good way to confirm that your LF sensor IS bad rather than the problem being with the kind of magnet you are using.

- Jack

 

Another dumb question: Do the spare tires have sensors in them? If they do, then you could try the spare at the trouble spot.

- Jack

 

DARN good question... I may drop it this weekend and give it a good lookin' at. *yee haw!*