Ok i have a new set of KC lights i want to install and i know the yellow wire is the main power wire that goes from the relay to the battery and has a 20 amp fuse but my question is about the white wire it is a slightly thinner wire and has a 3 amp fuse and it is suppose to go from the switch to the high beam headlight wire and i have read that i can bypass this and run it directly to the battery so the lights just work with the flip of the kc switch anytime is this true ? Also if i do run the white wire directly from the battery to the switch without going through the high beam will i need thicker wire and a 20 amp fuse like the yellow wire or is the 3 amp fuse enough ? If i do need thicker wire what gauge would i need is 14 good for a main wire from the battery or do i need 12 ? Any help would be appreciated thanks.

 

I only checked 2 diagrams on the KC site, but out of that small sampling, they look to be the same.

1. The wire wire is power to the switch. Pick a source you want the lights to be able to operate in, and connect it to that.
1.1. Any time regardless of key or headlamp switch position would be direct to the battery. Keep in mind, this means you could leave them on and kill the battery.
1.2. Any time the parking lamps are on, to the brown wire for the parking lamps ( at the main headlamp switch or under the hood ).
1.3. The 3300 directions only show the high or low beams or to the battery, they bypass the parking lamp option.

2. The fuse on the white wire is only powering the relay coil. 3 A is overkill, it should only really need a 1A fuse.

This is the page I found the PDF of the KC light installs.
http://support.kchilites.com/index.p...lation-guides/

** Watch that KC lights relay, it has 5 pins, but 2 of them are terminal 87, it is not a SPDT relay which has a 87 & 87a on it.

 

So if i run the white wire from the switch to the battery instead of from switch to headlight wire the 3 amp fuse will be fine ? Also i am not sure the white and green wire they included will be long enough what gauge wire should i buy if i need more ? Is 14 gauge enough.

 

Yes that is fine. The URL above has the 3300 install PDF that shows that option ( direct to battery ).

The 3 A fuse is correct size.

14 AWG is more than enough for the white wire, it is actually over size.

Same for the green wire from the switch to the relay, 14 AWG is overkill but will work if that is what you have.
I would take a guess it is 16 AWG or 18 AWG for the white & green wires.

 

Run it from the switch to the park lamp wire. This way you can only run the lamps if the park lamps are on. If you accidently flip the switch, your battery will die with them hooked to a constant 12v.

That is what I did. Just wired them on Monday...

 

Thanks for the help guys,I just have one more question.I was originally going to put the kc lights behind the grille but now i want to put them somewhere where i can use the hard covers they came with and i have some old 4x6 55watt cheaper lights i was thinking about putting behind the grille now because you wont be able to see them real good through the grille so nobody will know they are not also kc type lights but the thing i was wondering about with those ones is because they are the old school type cheapo lights they have no relay just a switch and the wires from battery to switch with a fuse and a wire from switch to lights,Are these safe to wire with no relay i mean has anyone ever actually had these type lights catching fire at the switch or anything ? I have never heard of it happening but if its a bad idea i wont wire them in or i might just buy 2 more kc lights even though i didnt really want to spend another hundred plus bucks on lights.

 

Get a relay. They are stupid cheap. Without it you will have enormous voltage loss at the bulbs, excessive heat on all the components, and premature failure.

 

As posted above, go the relay kit route.

There are very few switches ( rated 20A ) that have decent contacts in them to work long term without the voltage loss / time causing them to act funny.

The guys of a relay are much stouter than a 20 A switch, and have a longer service life.

Also, you don't need to take the battery power into the cab, through the switch and back out to the lamps with a relay, it is a single smaller AWG wire that only needs a 1A fuse on it.

 

Thanks guys i decided to buy another set of kc lights that come with the wiring and relay and everything so i will put 2 behind the grille and 2 just above the license plate holder in front of the bumper. I have 2 100 watt long range lights and 2 55 watt driving lights so i think i will put the driving lights behind the grille and the long range at the bumper since it is a aftermarket grille and the light has to be only about a quarter inch behind it i think with the 55 watt there i will have no worries about any excessive heat at the back of the plastic grille. https://www.f150online.com/forums/me...kc-lights.html