No power to A/C compressor clutch
#1
No power to A/C compressor clutch
I just got a 97 F150 4.6l for a work truck and the A/C doesn't blow cold. So far i've tried jumping the pressure switches, swapping the complete HVAC controls from another truck, checked the only fuse under the dash I could find for the a/c and still nothing. I get voltage to the pressure switches but nothing to the comp clutch no matter what I do. If anyone could help with any ideas or a wiring schematic i'd really appreciate it.
#2
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: St. Louis (Out in the woods)
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Here ya go:
1997 F-150 HVAC Schematic.pdf - http://www.bestsharing.com/f/e3w9g312164
If you have voltage at the cycling switch and jump it but still don't have power at the clutch coil connector, you have an open circuit in ckt #347 (BK/Y).
Steve
1997 F-150 HVAC Schematic.pdf - http://www.bestsharing.com/f/e3w9g312164
If you have voltage at the cycling switch and jump it but still don't have power at the clutch coil connector, you have an open circuit in ckt #347 (BK/Y).
Steve
Last edited by projectSHO89; 09-03-2007 at 09:15 PM.
#3
Not to sound stupid but what do you think would be the next step for me to try? I'm not the absolute best with the electrical side of things and don't want to mess anything up. Oh and just to be 100% sure. Is the cycling switch the one on the condenser or the one on the high pressure line? I appreciate the help so far because this has been driving me insane and it's too hot here in Fl not to have a/c.
Last edited by reyalp; 09-03-2007 at 09:56 PM.
#4
#5
#6
I know this is a dumb question but...
Originally Posted by reyalp
I just got a 97 F150 4.6l for a work truck and the A/C doesn't blow cold. So far i've tried jumping the pressure switches, swapping the complete HVAC controls from another truck, checked the only fuse under the dash I could find for the a/c and still nothing. I get voltage to the pressure switches but nothing to the comp clutch no matter what I do. If anyone could help with any ideas or a wiring schematic i'd really appreciate it.
Last edited by mitch150; 09-04-2007 at 05:49 AM.
#7
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Location: St. Louis (Out in the woods)
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The cycling switch is mounted on the top of the drier/accumulator canister which is mounted on the firewall below the power block that holds the starter relay and the two maxifuses.
If you have power on the RED/YELL wire, that eliminates the fuse, selector switch, and the high pressure cutout switch.
If you jump the cycling switch, that removes the refrigerant (not freon) charge level as a variable.
If you have gotten this far, have power to the cycling switch, have it jumped, and still have no measured power at the clutch connector, my above suggestion still holds.
Again, follow the schematic, it is your road map.
Steve
If you have power on the RED/YELL wire, that eliminates the fuse, selector switch, and the high pressure cutout switch.
If you jump the cycling switch, that removes the refrigerant (not freon) charge level as a variable.
If you have gotten this far, have power to the cycling switch, have it jumped, and still have no measured power at the clutch connector, my above suggestion still holds.
Again, follow the schematic, it is your road map.
Steve
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#9
Originally Posted by projectSHO89
The cycling switch is mounted on the top of the drier/accumulator canister which is mounted on the firewall below the power block that holds the starter relay and the two maxifuses.
If you have power on the RED/YELL wire, that eliminates the fuse, selector switch, and the high pressure cutout switch.
If you jump the cycling switch, that removes the refrigerant (not freon) charge level as a variable.
If you have gotten this far, have power to the cycling switch, have it jumped, and still have no measured power at the clutch connector, my above suggestion still holds.
Again, follow the schematic, it is your road map.
Steve
If you have power on the RED/YELL wire, that eliminates the fuse, selector switch, and the high pressure cutout switch.
If you jump the cycling switch, that removes the refrigerant (not freon) charge level as a variable.
If you have gotten this far, have power to the cycling switch, have it jumped, and still have no measured power at the clutch connector, my above suggestion still holds.
Again, follow the schematic, it is your road map.
Steve
#10
Well I finally had the time to mess with the truck again so here's an update. I traced the wires to the comp clutch and found a bad part in the wire and a bad plug. Now I have power to the clutch but it still won't engage so I guess I have a whole other problem on my hands. Thanks to those that helped me figure out the first problem though.
#12
Well I just went out and tested the coil and it's roughly 3.5ohms on the old school analog meter. I pushed against the clutch hub and it partially engaged so now i'm a little better off. I've read about the air gap and i'm assuming they are talking about the distance between the outer hub and the pulley itself? If you see this before I search around for an answer can you verify the correct gap and how to fix it if it's wrong? Thanks.
#14
#15
Same issue.
I'm having a similar issue with my 03 f150. The compressor clutch isn't engaging. Took it to AAMCO for a free A/C Diagnostic. They confirmed that there was no power to the compressor clutch.
Both the A/C Relay and fuse in relay box, and the 1 fuse in the dash mounted fuse panel are all fine. There is an A/C clutch diode in the relay box I'm unsure on.
I've checked the refrigerant level with a gauge, its fine, I've also jumped both high and low pressure switches and still not clutch engagement.
Any suggesstions?
I'm stumped.
Both the A/C Relay and fuse in relay box, and the 1 fuse in the dash mounted fuse panel are all fine. There is an A/C clutch diode in the relay box I'm unsure on.
I've checked the refrigerant level with a gauge, its fine, I've also jumped both high and low pressure switches and still not clutch engagement.
Any suggesstions?
I'm stumped.