Not to beat a dead horse but... 98 f150 4x4 4.6 6" suspension 3" body

I have a leak on my manifold passenger side so I was going to throw some long tubes, some Maggie hi-flow cats, and 4 new o2 sensors on since I need to address the leak.

How hard is this going to be for a normal man in his own garage? Will the 3" body lift make it easier? Any tips or tricks?

Now on the cats, Since i will be removing the 4 old cats and the back two o2s are after the last cats, should I put it back that way or can I just buy the cats with the build in bung on the cat and place the rear o2s there?

Thanks guys!! Lots of love!!

 

https://www.f150online.com/forums/ex...headers-3.html

I'm going to go thru the install in this thread if your interested. Page 3. It's a Pacesetter install tho.

 

Great!! After looking over my truck I dont think it should be to hard cause I can reach the manifold right now very easy cause of the 3" body lift. But it puts my truck out of service for the time being and my wife dont want it taking up the driveway for a long time!

Yeah Pacesetter headers are what I'm looking to go with as well.

About the cats. The headers have a bung for the front o2s to go in but would it be easier to have the cats with the built in bung for the o2 or just have the put in after? Does it make a difference?

 

No, just use the header bung for your AF's or Bank 1&2 forwards, that's where you want it. Use Bosch or Motorcraft O2's as well. Their louvered and spin the gases. Some after markets are not, this causes problems (just an FYI).

The rear "CAT Checkers" Bank 1&2 Sensor 2's - It doesn't matter, use the factory bung (check that 98, the factory bungs can leak) or plug it and use a CAT incorporated bung.

If you have to order O2's with the correct harness. Drivers side measures 10" / passenger side measures 12", - you have to order the 14" harness, because their measurement is from end to end of the entire part. Don't ask me why, I don't know why lol, that's how they do it tho.

 

Thanks JBrew!

Use the headers place they have for the front pair of o2s and you think I should go with the cats with the bungs in them for the rear pair o2s and plug the factory holes off?

So how hard is the headers to install? Do you think a normal man with normal tools pull this off in a reasonable amount of time?

 

Yes and No lol, -Use the factory bung in the rear, just check it for damage. Damage occurs when removing existing O2 sensors. You would be smart not to touch your rear O2's, - keep using them.

Yes, you can do this. Reasonable amount of time ? Nope! Cover the bases in the other thread, if you don't, you may need more than just the normal tools to fix an otherwise avoided problem. You need to take your time. And if you have hair, you may want to wrap duck tape around your head , so you don't pull it all out.

Special attention must be made to thread chambers in the heads. Clean and staged torque. It's very easy to strip out the thread chambers, you don't want that.

BTW- 3" body lift ? That's cheating!! ~ But yea, that will make it easier for sure.

 

my buddy has an expy 4x4 with a 5.4 and a 3" body lift him and his dad in his drive way did longtubes in 2 hours pacesetter. that is taking off stock manifolds 230,000 miles on them broken studs and all. so urs should be a breeze.

mine took me a few days bc i had other things to do i was by my self and very very limited tools also no body lift.

 

Nice that makes me feel good then! I love doing the work on my own truck! It just makes me feel even closer to my truck!! Oh the love!!

So as far as the cats go just go with the 94106's or should I go with the spun cats cause of space?

Thanks for the help guys!

 

Also what kind of length difference am I going to have between, removing the 4 cats and putting the LT headers with the maggie hi flow cats? Will I be able to hook back up to my old exhaust if I cut off before my two rear o2 sensors or will I need to modify?

 

if i were you i would get the cats with the bung for the o2s in them.i bought the 94106s and the guy at the exhaust shop that welded everything up said there is a reason they put the o2s in the cat from the factory. and im thinkin maybe that has something to do with why i lost 3 mpg when i got my exhaust hooked up. and you are most definitly gonna have to modify your old exhaust to fit. the long tubes will stop at least a good foot after where the stock flange would be. i wish i could go ahead and hook up my headers but i got family in town all week

 

I hate hearing about exhaust guys doing stupid things like this. If the cats didn't come with sensors, then the interior design is made to do its job, and it should be monitored AFTER it leaves the cat... I'm going to start suggesting that people leave a sticky note on the steering when to the installer so he knows to mount the O2s after the new cats.

He as definitely supposed to put them after the cats at least 1" away. The part # for the 94106 cats with O2 bungs in the back is 94136.

 

Darn good idea, Darren!!!!
Not only works for exhaust but other things when you bring the vehicle in for service work!

 

oh no i stood there and watched them do everything. he just said the o2 in the cat was supposed to moniter how it changed the gases or something like that. but i made sure he welded the o2s about an inch behind the cats. but they did mess up where they had the mufflers mounted i just noticed that today. they were so close together they actually got welded to each other

 

So do you think I should go with the 94106 and leave the rear o2 alone and not touch them if I dont need to?

My rear o2 sensors are after my rear cats.

 

I looking on jegs and summit and found some headers collector extensions. Maybe use those after the headers before the cats to help reach old exhaust. You can get the extension up to like 18". I could cut to size. Then place cats to reach the old exhaust and my rear o2 sensor! What do you think?

Does it matter how far back the cats are from the front o2 sensors?