no you dont need a collector extention you wont have room for cats if you do that. and no the front o2 sensors dont have anything to do with the cats.

 

So your saying with the LT headers and the new cats I will be able to reach my old exhaust?

I know the headers collector is 3" so I'm going to need to reduce it somewhere. I was thinking a header reducer from 3" to 2.5" then to the 94106 cats. After all that you think it I will be able to reach my old exhaust. I'm going to cut right before my rear o2 sensors.

 

i dont have mine installed yet but theres a good possibility the headers will come at a different angle than the exhaust. and your just gonna have to cut your old exhaust at the right spot and weld it all up. if you still have the stock y pipe i would unbolt it and take it off put the headers on and then hold it up and see where you need to cut it.

 

Yeah that does sound like the best thing to do! I do currently have the stock y pipe. I'm looking to have that replaced with a x-pipe out to two mufflers or duals into a muffler with the built in x-pipe.

Measure twice and cut once!

So heres where I stand now: Pacesetter LT headers, 3" to 2.5" header reducer, 2x 2.5" 94106 cats, 2x o2 sensors for front. Hows that sound?

 

sounds good man. by the way dont buy rear o2 sensors for the front. they have different connectors. everyone on here tried to tell me they will work but they wont. you will have to just sauter some longer wire on and heat shrink it. but you might as well just get your headers on and take it to an exhaust shop and get them to weld everything else up to them

 

You must have some sort of strange set up, but I haven't done an 03. Some rear connectors would require shaving the guide on the male side of the harness plug to fit the forward connector, but that was the ONLY modification needed to connect. The O2 duty/assignment is changed on the harness- truck/PCM side. Both are 4 wire/ Both are the same sensor. Never had a problem in the past.

Soldering changes resistance, you don't want that, - it can still work, just not by design.

BTW- There's only one way you can solder O2 stainless wires. Cleaning the wire DEFINETLY won't be enough. You need Rosin Flux to assist Rosin Core Solder or it won't work (sounds funny , but it's true). Use the twist method and only apply enough solder/ - not to much, you'll see what I mean if you go this route, -just let the solder thread/weave in, then quit. Use a solder sucker if you get to heavy.

This may help -

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=7

Also, -SKULLY, in the electrical forum has a better way to twist wire. Look to his diagrams on this site. - I'm telling you it's allot easier just getting the O2's with the right length harness, it works out via Time/Cost and it won't effect your two heaters (white wires) or programing the way you would crimping or soldering. Your vehicle performance/economy relies heavily on your forward O2's for correct data and proper function.

 

the body lift will make it easier.

my obx long tube header install