03 powerpoint in the cig lighter plug
03 powerpoint in the cig lighter plug
i would like to put a 12v powerpoint in the spot where my cig lighter powerpoint is is this possible buy jsut buying on from ford and would it be a direct replacement
From what I hear, the cigarette lighter should not have things plugged into it from long period of time. ( think it's in the manual as well) It gets really hot. I would be interested in this as well if it's an easy swap
Manual says not to plug DC devices into the cigar lighter, nothing about temp in the owners manual.
The cigar lighter socket does not get hot, that is the resistive element in the cigar lighter itself.
The cigar lighter is a power point plug that is made to take the cigar lighter.
The logic behind not using the cigar lighter for DC items is if the fuse blows, that is also the OBD port as well ( if a scan tool does not work, change the fuse would be the easy idea ).
Changing the cigar lighter socket to a power point socket does not change that, same circuit to the fuse.
The cigar lighter socket does not get hot, that is the resistive element in the cigar lighter itself.
The cigar lighter is a power point plug that is made to take the cigar lighter.
The logic behind not using the cigar lighter for DC items is if the fuse blows, that is also the OBD port as well ( if a scan tool does not work, change the fuse would be the easy idea ).
Changing the cigar lighter socket to a power point socket does not change that, same circuit to the fuse.
the powerpoint i can plug anything in and it will get a connection all the time but when i have 12v acceries plugged into the cig lighter socket it will lose connection between it say as i have my radar detector plugged in my cigar lighter if i hit a bump it will cut off
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The problem with using the cig lighter plug for your accessories is it will blow the fuse if the connector rocks around in the socket. The lighter socket has 2 tabs inside of it that grip the end of the lighter so it doesn't fly out after it gets hot. You plug your cell phone charger in there and after it gets bumped around and the tabs get bent the plug will walk around in the socket and the tip will arc to ground blowing the fuse. The lighter is usually fused in with 3 or 4 other things so when the fuse pops you lose the other "features" on that circuit. You can use it.. It's not going to set the truck on fire.. just make sure you're careful when you plug and unplug. A factory 12v socket should fit in and plug up without any issue.
Some of what's been posted is true, some's not. I have used cig. lighter receptacles for the last 35 years with no problems whatsoever for aux. power. It's true, there is a difference in the receptacles, only because a CLR is designed to do the job for that, NOT because it won't do a good job as an aux. rec. The spring pressure from the springs on the sides of the aux. power cord hold it in a cig. lighter rec. pretty much the same as it holds it in an aux. power rec. Unless you are driving over 3rd world country roads it should stay in one the same as the other. As far as heating up, utter hogwash. There is nothing about a CLR that will heat up when a power cord is inserted any more than a aux. power outlet. It IS wise to switch to another powers source for that 2nd rec. for the reasons mentioned. Get it off the power source for the OBD2 port. I did outfitting for a living and put in plenty of cig lighter rec. for power sources in custom police vehicles and NEVER once had a problem with them. (We had an abundance of new take-outs) Good time to seperate fact from fiction!
so code what you are saying is is to swtich the power source from the cig outlet? i just have my radar detector plugged in my cig plug and it will cut off and on alot and every other 12v power stuff as in cell phone charger ...etc will do the same ? so how would changing the power soure from the cig plug change that?
No, the only reason I said to move the cig. lighter rec. to another power source is the OBD2 power is also on that same fuse. There are often people who don't use the CLR much and don't notice when something blows that fuse. Then when they go to read codes, they get nothing, it's dead and they don't know why. It's definitely not a necessity. That's a 20A fuse so it would mostly take a short to blow it.
I'm saying that a CLR works fine for aux. power There was a day that ALL you had for aux. power was the CLR. And that's not ancient history either. I generally didn't remove the bimetal spring that releases the lighter when it gets hot enough, but if I wasn't going a mile a minute I would remove it. That is held in by a small machine thread bolt, not a rivet. Just take the nut off, remove the bimetal clip and reinstall the nut. But it works fine either way. I looked at mine today and they both (power point & CL) have cavities in the sides. They are different but mine hold about equally. They do sell aux. power "groups" (sometimes 2 port, sometimes 3) The ones we used in all B&W's was a 3 port "group" with a built in breaker on the bottom. Since it faced up, they were always dropping pennies or something metal in there and at least the breaker kept it from catching the car on fire. I believe we also had it fused at about 20A on the main aux. fuse panel. It had plugs for when recetacles weren't in use, but I don't have to tell you, they were virtually never used. I beileve Wal Mart even sells a 2 port or 3 port Aux. power source. If you are having trouble losing contact, I would say either your contacts are dirty in the CLR or there is not enough "curve" to the side springs on what you're using, meaning not enough tension to keep it firmly in the cavity against the spring pressure in the plug.
I'm saying that a CLR works fine for aux. power There was a day that ALL you had for aux. power was the CLR. And that's not ancient history either. I generally didn't remove the bimetal spring that releases the lighter when it gets hot enough, but if I wasn't going a mile a minute I would remove it. That is held in by a small machine thread bolt, not a rivet. Just take the nut off, remove the bimetal clip and reinstall the nut. But it works fine either way. I looked at mine today and they both (power point & CL) have cavities in the sides. They are different but mine hold about equally. They do sell aux. power "groups" (sometimes 2 port, sometimes 3) The ones we used in all B&W's was a 3 port "group" with a built in breaker on the bottom. Since it faced up, they were always dropping pennies or something metal in there and at least the breaker kept it from catching the car on fire. I believe we also had it fused at about 20A on the main aux. fuse panel. It had plugs for when recetacles weren't in use, but I don't have to tell you, they were virtually never used. I beileve Wal Mart even sells a 2 port or 3 port Aux. power source. If you are having trouble losing contact, I would say either your contacts are dirty in the CLR or there is not enough "curve" to the side springs on what you're using, meaning not enough tension to keep it firmly in the cavity against the spring pressure in the plug.






