O>K> let me start of from the beginning. i bought 2001 f-150 4 yrs. ago .. it had on key.. 2 months ago i lost it , and have a local key shop come to my house and cut 2 keys and , i guess program the keys for it.. the truck started w/ both keys and didn't have any propblems for the two months. one morning got in the truck and the dreaded theft light starts blinking, and motor was turning over but no start,, .. called the key maker the next day and said try disconect batt. cable at neg. side for 15 min. WOW !! it worked and (by this time had found lost key ) . he said go ahead and program lost key . i did and all 3 keys worked !!! driving down the road 3 days ago, the truck shut down.. tried the battery trick, putting key in ignition for 15min, and using the other keys... now i sit here after having it towed, pondering should i go to the ford garage and have parts changed until i have to go bankrupt, or ask you guys that acually use common sense and trial and error for help.. PLEASE HELP,, MY BRAIN IS KILLING ME TRYING TO FIGURE THIS OUT !!! Thanks for any help in advance !!
Randy

 

1st : please contain threads to a single forum, it gets confusing having the same thread in 2 forums.

On to the problem

do you have any other RFID items on the key ring ? ( i.e. speed pass, cc fob, another ford key, etc ). If so try it without the other RFID tag on the key ring to verify this.

If you have a crank no start, if you turn the truck off, and turn from off to run ( do no start ) does the theft light go out ~ 5 sec ?

The battery hokum is not applicable, who ever gave you that info, don't listen to them. The RFID tags are stored in NVR in the cluster. no battery needed to store the key codes.

You could have a problem with the PATS transceiver antenna around the ign key cylinder, best to get the info above, prior to digging into that.

Can you find out what "i guess program the keys for it" means ?
They had to do a HEC erase, and program 2 new keys to get it to work without having 2 keys.

 

light blinks for about a minute or so andthen goes out.. no other RFID items on key. this PATS transceiver antenna , can i change this part, or is it a oem part only.. it seems that this must be the culprit as i have heard this suggestion twice before..
thanks so much for any other help,
Randy

 

With the test results of turning the key from off to run without starting, and it has the theft light going out, it is not a PATS issues.
The Theft light would continue to blink if it was.

With a crank no start, time to check other items, here is a thread on what I had happen to my 2001 with a crank no start :

https://www.f150online.com/forums/v8...e-my-cure.html

I am going to take a SWAG that the fuel pump relay is the issue, but run the tests in the thread above to confirm.

 

the theft light blinks for a minute or so and then eventually goes off... if im understanding correctly , i should disreguard pats for now , and go through the steps on the thread then , go and look at f/p relay .. correct ? thanks

 

That is correct, your testing so far shows no issue with PATS.

 

i swapped relays and still get the theft light blinking when trying to start. all the fuses seem good as i tested them.. however when and where should i hear the fuel pump running ?? i am kinda hard of hearing... will the pats stop the pump from running /

 

To clarify, a PATS failure results in a fast flash rate as opposed to the much slower flash rate when the system is in "deter" mode.

 

no .. its fast when trying to start. not the normal slow dim flash as when the veicle is off

 

The fuel pump should run when you turn the key from off to run, but this will only happen 3 ( 2 ? ) times of not being started, as the fuel rail should have pressure, and the truck does not want to always be pushing pressure at the rail for no reason.

If you press the schrader valve on the fuel rail ( watch it with the splatter, use eye protection and have a solid rag under it, and at the ready on the top to catch the fuel ), so you have fuel pressure ?

Did you pull the fuel pump relay, and jumper it ?
This will bypass the PCM operation of it, and it will cycle no matter what.

If it does not cycle, have you checked the fuel inertia switch in the kick panel on the passenger side to make sure it is not tripped ?

 

fuel valve gave no impressive splash at all.. it kinda sputtered a little. the reset on the pass. side did nothing.. there is a red stripe that a can see on it. i still hear no feul pump.

 

test fuel pump some way ?

 

Then you DO have a PATS fault. You'll have to resolve that before anything else.

 

Does it go out or does it flash fast ?

you have said both now, which is it ?

Did you jumper the normally open contacts in the fuel pump relay as the thread linked above said to do ?

 

it flashes fast and does for a minute or two, then eventually stops. what termenals do i jump for the relay ?
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