'04 mirrors not working
'04 mirrors not working
I have an '04 lariat w/heated,turning signal mirrors. The adjustment button won't do anything for either mirror, doesn't even make a noise and the button isn't lit up. Turning signals still work and heated seems to work. Not sure which fuse to look at. Oh yes, windows work fine. Anyone know likely problem????
Figgy
Figgy
Did you check your owners manual, page 193 for the fuse # ?
EDIT : This might help.. Must have selected the text and wacked it when I included the manual page info
Fuse #3 is for the power mirrors.
If you did not get an owners manual with your truck ( purchased used ), you can download one from Ford :
https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenan...ls/default.asp
EDIT : This might help.. Must have selected the text and wacked it when I included the manual page info
Fuse #3 is for the power mirrors.
If you did not get an owners manual with your truck ( purchased used ), you can download one from Ford :
https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenan...ls/default.asp
Last edited by SSCULLY; Jan 30, 2011 at 10:39 AM.
I checked #3 fuse and it was OK. It is only a 5 amp fuse and it said something about memory for pedals and seats as well, so I wondered if it was more for the memory feature than actually running the motors that run the mirrors since it was only a 3 amp fuse.
Anyone with any other ideas??
Anyone with any other ideas??
Try actually checking it
Meter the pins on the back of the fuse while it is installed, that is why the pins are there.

If this tests good, next check the power at the switch. This is the Orange w/ Light green wire.
Additional items
1. There is not an instrumentation illumination on the power mirror switch ( no LED )
2. You are turning the switch to the left or right, correct ?
Meter the pins on the back of the fuse while it is installed, that is why the pins are there.

If this tests good, next check the power at the switch. This is the Orange w/ Light green wire.
Additional items
1. There is not an instrumentation illumination on the power mirror switch ( no LED )
2. You are turning the switch to the left or right, correct ?
Didn't know you could check a fuse that way. I will try that tomorrow.
Oh, I thought the mirror control lit up, OK.
Yes, I'm twisting the **** to the left or right to control each mirror.
Thanks for your help.
Figgy
Oh, I thought the mirror control lit up, OK.
Yes, I'm twisting the **** to the left or right to control each mirror.
Thanks for your help.
Figgy
Trending Topics
I FINALLY got around to checking the fuse with the tester while it was still installed in the fuse box. I checked with the key on and it read OK. According to the manual it was #3 fuse which is a 5 amp. I'm still not convinced that is the correct fuse being it's only 5 amp to run the mirror motors, but that's what the manual says. Does anyone else think this might be the wrong fuse? Any other ideas on what the problem might be??
Thanks.
Thanks.
Assuming a NBS 2004 and not a "Heritage", that is the correct fuse. It only runs the mirror motors as the mirror heaters are on the rear defroster circuit and there is no provision for illumination of the mirror switch.
Pull the switch out and check for battery feed from F3 on the OR/LG wire to ensure the switch is receiving power. If so, alternately check the yellow wire for power with the switch in the "left" position and ground in the "right" position. That will likely be enough to determine if the switch is bad or not.
Pull the switch out and check for battery feed from F3 on the OR/LG wire to ensure the switch is receiving power. If so, alternately check the yellow wire for power with the switch in the "left" position and ground in the "right" position. That will likely be enough to determine if the switch is bad or not.
Here is the test chart for the switch itself, if any of the tests bposted by projectSHO89 are questionable or do not produce the results that you should get.
Assuming a NBS 2004 and not a "Heritage", that is the correct fuse. It only runs the mirror motors as the mirror heaters are on the rear defroster circuit and there is no provision for illumination of the mirror switch.
Pull the switch out and check for battery feed from F3 on the OR/LG wire to ensure the switch is receiving power. If so, alternately check the yellow wire for power with the switch in the "left" position and ground in the "right" position. That will likely be enough to determine if the switch is bad or not.
Pull the switch out and check for battery feed from F3 on the OR/LG wire to ensure the switch is receiving power. If so, alternately check the yellow wire for power with the switch in the "left" position and ground in the "right" position. That will likely be enough to determine if the switch is bad or not.
I checked this with the key in the "on" position but engine not running.
Thanks
Figgy
Last edited by figgy; Mar 9, 2011 at 04:28 PM.
I think that meant when you turn the switch to a side, and press the switch to the left. i.e. driver's side mirror this is the pan out function.
The ground when to the right is the pan in function on the driver's side.
The ground when to the right is the pan in function on the driver's side.
Well, I still don't know what you guys mean by "GROUND"
Anyway, I re-installed the switch and as I said, I have power in the or/lg wire. I then tested every wire (might have missed one or two) while turning the **** left then right, and in every direction. Never got the tester to light up even once. This was with the key in the on position. Must be a bad switch, RIGHT?? Am I missing something? The thing that kind of throws me is (like I said earlier) I actually took the switch apart pior to this last testing and can see no reason why it shouldn't work but I may just not be seeing something. Is there another test I should be doing, or is it time to just buy a new switch? Thanks
Anyway, I re-installed the switch and as I said, I have power in the or/lg wire. I then tested every wire (might have missed one or two) while turning the **** left then right, and in every direction. Never got the tester to light up even once. This was with the key in the on position. Must be a bad switch, RIGHT?? Am I missing something? The thing that kind of throws me is (like I said earlier) I actually took the switch apart pior to this last testing and can see no reason why it shouldn't work but I may just not be seeing something. Is there another test I should be doing, or is it time to just buy a new switch? Thanks



