Tapping into 12v outlet
Tapping into 12v outlet
I am thinking of adding some LEDs to the interior of my truck and don't know where I can get power from. I never use the 12v outlets so would I be ok tapping into them for a power source?
Thanks
Thanks
The power points are always powered, so you have the ability to lave them on all the time.
The dash or console power point would be a good place to draw power from for a relay, to operate 16 A or less of LEDs ( which is a lot as I am sure you know ).
The bet bet is to either use the Instrument illumination or parking lamp circuit to trigger a relay, and have the load on a fuse, this way the truck needs to be running or the parking lamps on to make the LEDs you are adding work ( less of a chance to kill the battery ).
This is a generic relay drawing, just for conversation starter

In your case
1. The wire to terminal # 85 is via a switch from either the instrument illumination or the parking lamp circuits ( both behind the main headlamp switch ).
2. The fused connection to terminal #30 can be from the dash power point ( not the cigar lighter ).
2.1. The load needs to be less than what is used total, i.e. if you plug things into the power point, that load subtracted from 16A would be the total amount of LED lighting you can safely add.
2.2. I would still do an inline fuse to the additional LEDs, just in case.
Don't know if this makes sense or not.
The dash or console power point would be a good place to draw power from for a relay, to operate 16 A or less of LEDs ( which is a lot as I am sure you know ).
The bet bet is to either use the Instrument illumination or parking lamp circuit to trigger a relay, and have the load on a fuse, this way the truck needs to be running or the parking lamps on to make the LEDs you are adding work ( less of a chance to kill the battery ).
This is a generic relay drawing, just for conversation starter

In your case
1. The wire to terminal # 85 is via a switch from either the instrument illumination or the parking lamp circuits ( both behind the main headlamp switch ).
2. The fused connection to terminal #30 can be from the dash power point ( not the cigar lighter ).
2.1. The load needs to be less than what is used total, i.e. if you plug things into the power point, that load subtracted from 16A would be the total amount of LED lighting you can safely add.
2.2. I would still do an inline fuse to the additional LEDs, just in case.
Don't know if this makes sense or not.
Thanks for the info. I am thinking of just adding a lighted toggle switch near the cig lighter so I can have them on when the lights aren't on. Which would go into 85 in your drawing right? Also does the 12v power point have neg? or could I just ground that?
I'm looking to add a few of these under the dash, and other various places. LED strips Is there a certain relay that is needed? I have a few in my shop that may work for this, if not I'll just pick up what is needed.
Sorry for all the questions. I am new with electrical.
I'm looking to add a few of these under the dash, and other various places. LED strips Is there a certain relay that is needed? I have a few in my shop that may work for this, if not I'll just pick up what is needed.
Sorry for all the questions. I am new with electrical.
Last edited by Vigs07R; Dec 26, 2010 at 03:32 PM.
Yes the lighted toggle switch would go to terminal #85 in the drawing below.
The dash power point has both ground and power ( hot at all times ) on it.
No clue if those strips would require a relay. Not sure how many you are looking at, and the specs on the web site are junk, no mention of the draw on them.
Can take a SWAG that they are 1A each, but you could find out the wrong way that is too low a number.
The dash power point has both ground and power ( hot at all times ) on it.
No clue if those strips would require a relay. Not sure how many you are looking at, and the specs on the web site are junk, no mention of the draw on them.
Can take a SWAG that they are 1A each, but you could find out the wrong way that is too low a number.
So I'd just tie the power and ground from the outlet to the correct post then. Doesn't sound all that difficult.
I emailed them for a little bit more info early today. So hopefully they come back with a little more.
Thanks for the help.
I emailed them for a little bit more info early today. So hopefully they come back with a little more.
Thanks for the help.
Off topic (slightly) - I predict in ten years, your home will be lit by LEDs. Your vehicle will have LEDs in ALL the lighting except maybe the headlights. And, you won't find anything but LED flashlights for sale.
And, I would not be surprised to see LEDs replacing headlights too. But, that may take a bit longer than 10 years.
- Jack
And, I would not be surprised to see LEDs replacing headlights too. But, that may take a bit longer than 10 years.
- Jack
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Off topic (slightly) - I predict in ten years, your home will be lit by LEDs. Your vehicle will have LEDs in ALL the lighting except maybe the headlights. And, you won't find anything but LED flashlights for sale.
And, I would not be surprised to see LEDs replacing headlights too. But, that may take a bit longer than 10 years.
- Jack
And, I would not be surprised to see LEDs replacing headlights too. But, that may take a bit longer than 10 years.
- Jack
O and if anyone is wondering each strip draws less than .12A

The old round jeep lamps also have LED replacements for them already.
Taking down the ceiling in the kitchen to change the single 197 box that the 4', 4 bulb FL ( SP35 bulbs ) fixture is hung on to install 5 recessed cans.
Installing the 650 lumen 3500K color temp dimmable LED units in them. This converts the 4 x4 fixture to a total of 52.5 Watts of power usage.




