Okay,I nearly killed my battery last night,not to mention looking like an idiot by leaving my aftermarket fog lights on,lol.. Where would I find a power source for my foglights that would only be on while the ignition is on? I have heard of tapping into the parking light wires or the brown wire coming off the headlight switch. The problem is that the alarm,and speedglo gauges are already tapped into the headlight switch(brown wire)and I don't want to overload the system. I'd like to have the ability to run them without the headlights being on. I've left those stupid things on twice already,when it was just light enough to not see the output of the fogs(dusk) Would it be too difficult to have a buzzer(like the headlights) to warn me when I leave them on? Maybe one of the daytime running light kits would do it?? Just need a little advice, thanks for any help you can give,,,,,98

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98 F-150 4.6 Litre XLT2wd Ext. cab
Yokahama AVS/ST's,,too noisy
prarie tan/tan int.
K/N gen.II fipk
custom dual exh/gibson rectangle tips/rear exiting.
color matched snuglid
Superchip!!!
Clear front corners
Speedglo gauges w/carbon fiber overlay
Carbon fiber Grant styling ring wheelcover
Stillen Quad light air dam,with Pilot PL-240 driving lights
Billet third brake light cover/oval pattern
Euro taillights,with APC red bulbs
Cobra 75WXST cb w/weather alert
Kenwood cd w/Radio Shack speakers,and Soundstream P203e amplifier//Single 10" sub
Viper alarm
On the waywheels,tires,Proglass shaker hood,Steel Horse C5 leather seat
Come see my new pictures@ www.my-f150.com
WOW,what a cool site!

FENDER GUITARS ROCK!!!

I just "wish" it was lowered

 

98Screamer, you could tap power off the radio fuse to power a relay. Then run power from the battery through the relay to power the lights. This would be a similar setup to the factory, only they use headlight power to make the relay.

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1999 F-150 Lariat 4X2
Reg cab Short box Styleside
5.4L 3.55ls
Deep Wedgwood Blue/Silver
Lund Interceptor hood shield
Stull billet grill
VentVisors
Class III hitch
Ford molded mud guards
Soft tonneau cover
Factory CD with changer
Tinted windows
Factory fog light kit

http://www.my-f150.com/lariatregcab/


Watch out NHL, Jagr and super Mario
Best in the buisness

 

Now I'm really confused(no pun intended ) I have it wired as per there instructions(they had a pre made harness) what would I need to change?
I have two sets of lights,running parallel to each other,both grounds together,both power wires hooked to the pos. batt. terminal. Am I supposed to run the switch power wires to the radio fuse,then to the switch? As you can readily tell,I know just enough about electrical stuff to get by.

 

98SCREAMER, you will need to get a relay. Run the power wires from the battery to the contacts on the relay and from the relay to the lights and then ground the other side of the lights. Probably the same as you have now, but replace the switch with a relay. Then tap off the radio switched power and run to positive side of the coil on the relay. The negative side of the coil on the relay goes through your switch and to ground.
When the key is on you have power to the relay, and if you have the switch on, the relay makes and your battery power goes to the lights. If you turn off the switch you lose the ground to the coil on the relay, if you turn off your truck you lose power to the coil on the relay. Either way the relay opens the contacts to remove battery power from your lights. If you would like I could draw a basic diagram if this is too confusing.
Jeff

 

okay, I get most of it now,but the lights already have a relay in the harness(1 relay per set) If you could draw me a diagram I would be very thankful!! What I'm getting from this so far is that the power wires that come from the relay and go to the middle of the switch now would go to the radio fuse tap? I lose it after that,as to where the switch would fall into the harness. The worst part is that the lights have a parking light feature,and therefore the switches are three position. (on/off/on) I guess that is the part that is throwing me off the most......Please Please make me a diagram,LMAO......

 

How does this look. Should be close to what you have, just changing the power source for the relays to a switched source.

I'm not sure about the parking light feature. let me know where the two outputs from the switch go, and maybe I could modify the diagram to show that. I'm guessing you have power going straight to the switch and one on position going to the relay, the other on is what I need to know where it goes. I hope I'm helping and not confusing you more.
Jeff

[This message has been edited by JA_Stang86 (edited 05-13-2001).]

 

Looks good guys.... let's not forget some fuses between the battery and the lamps. It wouldn't hurt to put some between +12 and the relays too.

XLT_D

 

Hey,new troubles,,sigh.... I am having a hard time locating a fuse tap rated for over 10 amps.
The light relays take 30 amps a piece. There are two 30 amp circuits in the fuse box,can I use one of them?? I found two types,although one did not have an amp limit warning listed. The one without
the warning is just a hard tap,doubles the spade connection on the fuse,and has a male spade connector on it,for the new circuit.
The other type is a piggyback style. It has it's own fuse connector(dummy fuse)that plugs in place of the fuse you are tapping. It then has two receptacles for fuses,one for the original fuse,and one for the new circuit.
I don't want to risk burning something up,or popping a fuse every time I turn the lights on.
BTW, a guy at the auto part place suggested
just taking the leads off the batt. and run them to a fuse. Is this what you were trying to explain?
What to do,,,,,98

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98 F-150 4.6 Litre XLT2wd Ext. cab
Yokahama AVS/ST's,,too noisy
prarie tan/tan int.
K/N gen.II fipk
custom dual exh/gibson rectangle tips/rear exiting.
color matched snuglid
Superchip!!!
Clear front corners
Speedglo gauges w/carbon fiber overlay
Carbon fiber Grant styling ring wheelcover
Stillen Quad light air dam,with Pilot PL-240 driving lights
Billet third brake light cover/oval pattern
Euro taillights,with APC red bulbs
Cobra 75WXST cb w/weather alert
Kenwood cd w/Radio Shack speakers,and Soundstream P203e amplifier//Single 10" sub
Viper alarm
On the waywheels,tires,Proglass shaker hood,Steel Horse C5 leather seat
Come see my new pictures@ www.my-f150.com
WOW,what a cool site!

FENDER GUITARS ROCK!!!

I just "wish" it was lowered

 

OK 98, how does this one look

In this system you are using the switched radio power to make your relays and send battery power to your switch. Then the switch will connect power to whichever light you want on.
You then take XceLenT_Drivers advice and add an inline fuse on each light power wire. You should be able to use either type of tap for the relay coil from the switched radio power. I would guess the 30 amp fuses would be for the light power and I would use an inline fuse like the auto store attendant suggested for the power through the relays and to the switch. I don't think a relay coil would need 30 amps to pull. You should not need a 30 amp circuit with this setup, the 30 amps will come off the battery. Use a tap with the switched radio and the 10 amp fuse should be fine for the relay coils.
For less confusion I drew this with one wire off the battery and split it, but you can leave two coming off the battery going through each relay.

I noticed I mislabeled the fuses, relay and light are swapped.

 

Hey,that's pretty good,Thanks!
Now,for the parking light feature....
The wires for the lights(both sides,a small bulb/yellow,,,and the main light/white both go into the relay along with a red wire,and come out the other side.The red wire goes to the middle of each switch,,and the yellow wire/white wire go to the outside contacts of the switch. So when you flip it towards the yellow wire,the small(blue)bulbs come on,,,and when it flips towards the white wire,,the main fog lghts come on....
So far,,,with what you have on the diagram,,I am understanding that the red wire will go to the radio fuse? The yellow/and white wires would still be on the switch? I am trying hard to get this,I can paint a car like a pro,but I can't figure out where two wires go,lol....Let me know if I'm getting it,or if I should just go to a auto electric place.......Thank you very much for helping me out with this ,,,,98

------------------
98 F-150 4.6 Litre XLT2wd Ext. cab
Yokahama AVS/ST's,,too noisy
prarie tan/tan int.
K/N gen.II fipk
custom dual exh/gibson rectangle tips/rear exiting.
color matched snuglid
Superchip!!!
Clear front corners
Speedglo gauges w/carbon fiber overlay
Carbon fiber Grant styling ring wheelcover
Stillen Quad light air dam,with Pilot PL-240 driving lights
Billet third brake light cover/oval pattern
Euro taillights,with APC red bulbs
Cobra 75WXST cb w/weather alert
Kenwood cd w/Radio Shack speakers,and Soundstream P203e amplifier//Single 10" sub
Viper alarm
On the waywheels,tires,Proglass shaker hood,Steel Horse C5 leather seat
Come see my new pictures@ www.my-f150.com
WOW,what a cool site!

FENDER GUITARS ROCK!!!

I just "wish" it was lowered

 

I'm still not getting it,sorry I'm so clueless
Please tell me if I have this right? I would take the red wires off of the middle of the switches,and tap them to the radio fuse. What do I do with middle contact of the switches,ground it? This may kill me but I will get it eventually. Sorry I can't read the diagrams,except on a rudimentary level.
I just need to be told what to change. This is the first time I've ever worked with a relay of any type,so I guess I don't understand what purpose they serve. After I talked to the guy at the auto parts place ,he had me taking the power wires off the batt.,tie them into one wire,and running it to a fuse tap. So I guess I will reattach those to the batt.,and try again the way your trying to show me. Geez, this is probably so simple,too ,,,98

 

On this new drawing, you will leave the red wire on the middle contact of the switch, and leave the yellow and white wires on the switch the way you originaly had them. You will also leave the light power wires on the battery the way you originaly had them. The only thing I believe you will have to change is where the relay wire get's it's power from. I would guess now it is coming from a non switched source (meaning it always is powered) The way I have it drawn is putting the relay on a switched source (meaning the power switches off with the ignition key).

A description of what is hapening in the diagram:
Red lines = battery power for your lights, going through a relay and switch.
Black / Blue lines from switch = power from switch to either park option or driving option.
Black lines from fuse box = switched power for relay

When you turn on your ignition you will get power to your relays. The relays will pull down the contacts and allow the battery power to get to your switches. When you turn on your switches the power will go through the switch and light the lights.
The purpose of the relay is if you forget to turn off the switches. When you shut off the ignition, you lose the power to the relay and they open, this takes away the battery power and the lights go out, and you do not kill your battery. This a more complicated way to do it, but with the three way switch and parking light option, I cannot think of another way to do it.
Look at the diagram like a road map, find the begining of a line and follow it through. If there is a dot where two wires cross, they are connected. If wires just pass over each other and no dot, they are not connected.
Jeff

 

Hey, I've got a better idea for him... take the wire off the battery terminal and connect it to the accessory relay on the firewall. It's on the passenger side about a foot from the fender...



If you look in this pic, where the washer fluid hose comes down, it's right below it... looks like a starter relay. One side is the battery, and the other side is keyed with the switch. You can leave everything else the way you had it originally, just connect the power source there instead of directly to the batter, thereby making it impossible to leave the lights on.

-Joe-


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98 Explorer (Lemon Law Case in Progress)

'00 F-150, X-cab, 4x4, Lariat, Off-road, Trailer Tow, Holandia Sunroof($1000), built 11/99 picked up 10/00!Clear Corners($36), Manik Stainless Steel 1-piece brush guard($700), Custom CB wiring, Uniden PC76-XLW CB radio($100) with K-40 Magna-Mount antenna (for now [$40]), 1 set of 165 watt KC Daylighters (for now... more on the way... $140) Fog Light Switch mod(free!!!), Custom switch mounting plate and overhead console, Bully Stainless Steel Trailer hitch drawbar w/ 2" stainless steel ball($80), Gray Tek Style Soft Tonneau Cover($250), Gray Line-X Bedliner ($450).
List of planned mods: Clear tails, torsion bar tweak, bug deflector, Chrome ORP rims.
93 Probe GT teal, OE rims painted to match, bone stock drivetrain, leaky exhaust.

 

That would probably be the easiest way to do it. I was not aware of that relay
Jeff

 

Hey guys!
Thanks very much for your help! I think I've got it now. I ran the batt. mounted wires to a 30 amp fuse tap,and they turn off and on with the ignition now,or with the switch(while the key is on) I may also change it later to what GIJoeCam has suggested. BTW,GI,,what is that huge fuse/relay looking thing next to the battery? Do you have some huge stereo equipment? ,,,,,98
Oops,almost forgot,I did put a fuse between the lights and the fuse box. Nothing like double protection