I purchased a set of 55w driving lights that I have mounted at the back of my truck on either side of the hitch to use as back-up/utility lights. I am having major headaches with the stupid wiring. The two lights have a y connector at the back of the lights so there is only one wire that runs up to the switch, which is hooked to the center terminal (this should beright according to directions), then I have the ground on the off side of the switch and then my fused power wire going to the fuse box in the cab, I have just stripped the wire back and wraped it around a fuse. The first problem I was having was that everytime I turned the key on the switch would light up regardless of position and the actual fog lights never came on. Then I took and switched the wire that goes from the lights from the center terminal to the "on" side of the switch, and put the main power wire on to the center terminal, now everytime I turn the key on, it blows the 15amp fuse at the fuse box. What the f*@king hell is going on. SOMEONE PLEASE HELP! I have installed numerous car steroes and 2 sets of fog lights and never had this kind of problem.
sincerly
lost and confused

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97 Ford F150 XLT 4wd 4.6L auto, Std cab/Long bed, PW,PL, and PM, captian chairs w/arm rests
Sylvania Cool Blue Bulbs, Ford logo hitch and license plate, tinted windows, blackouts front and rear(w/ford logos on front blackouts),ventvisors all around, painted logos on door sills and under hood, 55w backup lights, K&N Filter, custom 4x4 emblems,and much more to come


thomaswright5714@hotmail.com

 

Hi KYFordFreak,

What are the lights mounted to? The bumper? Hitch? the bolts that are used to mount the lights are what grounds them to the body ,so they have to have good metal contact. If not, then run a small length of wire with ring connectors crimped to both ends from the mounting bolts to the frame(cleaning paint,dirt etc for good contact). Wire the switch like it says in the instructions.
Personally I think wrapping the stripped wire around the fuse is sloppy(even though I have done it in the past). You can get fuse taps at your local auto store, makes a cleaner installation and it's fused.

Good luck

Hobbit

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99 XLT,4.6L Auto,4X4,tow pkge,Factory Side Steps and Mudflaps, K&N filter,BugflectorII, Amazon Green/Silver, Pace Edwards Rolltop Cover.

 

Hobbit
Is right the mounts are used as a ground. I have them mounted to the bumper, what I did is I removed two bolts from the bottom of the bumper and installed two steel drop down brakets (to get the lights at the right height). Since I first posted I ran a length of wire out to the battery as a test and the lights do work and since must be grounded properly. I do no understand why they will not work off the fuse box, as the fuse box has constent power to it. I think I will go out and try to use a wire tap to tap into the wire that goes to the cigarette lighter and see how that works. If anyone lese has any ideas let me know. Thanks

 

Ok, got it working now. I switched some wires and fuses around. The cd changer (aftermarket came with truck) was wired to a 25amp cigarette lgihter fuse. I was originally trying to wire the lights to a 15amp fuse. i took the cd changer wire off and put it on the 15amp fuse and put the lights on the 25amp fuse. Everything seems to work fine now. Hobbit is right, is does look a little sloppy( fuse panal cover will hide it though). Where should I go to find a better power source to tap into? There are so many wires under the dash and going to the fuse box and they are wrapped p so well, that it would be a b*tch to tap there I think. Thanks for the help.

Let me know the best source to get the power from?

 

I posted this in another thread, so here is what I did for a accessory feed. If you have class III towing, go to the wiring harness under the power network box, under the hood, over the left inner fender. You should see a wiring I.D. tag with "14405" on the loom running to the rear trailer plug. Open the convolute and find the solid red wire. Using a line tap or splice and solder, fasten a 16 gauge wire to the circuit.

This is a fused circuit, 30 amp, and will shut down with the key off. You will have to run the new wire inside to your switch, but should give you all the current needed.

I would not use this circuit if you are towing and using truck power inside the camper or what ever else behind the truck using that circuit, just to be safe.

I routed the the circuit back up to the dash panel and went inside by punching a small hole in the rubber grommet located just above the accelerator pedal.

Good luck,

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Jim H

 

Ok, I see a problem here. You are running over 9 amps through a switch. You really should have a relay in there. The way I hook up fogs is like this.

Hot wire from the solenoid on the firewall to the relay. Hot wire from anywhere to the switch. Switched hot wire to the relay. Hot wire from the relay to the fogs. Ground is needed for the switch, I can't remember if the relay needs a ground wire, I think it does. I'd put the relay under hood, then take the power wire underneath along the frame. Then put the switch inside with the switched turn on wire going out the rubber grommet in the firewall on the driver's side to hook to the relay.

Not real clear, but it works..

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Thanks for the help.

2000 F150 4x4, your right usually with fogs they throw in a realy to use but, this set didn't have one. This was just a cheap set to see if I liked them as backup lights and also to save money in case I break one it is cheap to replace. Do you think it is really nesscary that I use a relay, if so I might put one in there? It's only 9 amps it's not like the 40 amp draw I had with one amp I use to have.

 

Dumb question, and I'm feeling lazy right now so I'll ask.

What does a relay do?

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2001 F150 XLT Supercab Flareside "Sport"
Black
5.4
Smittybilt step bars

 

if you run more than .5 amp or so, you'll probably fry the switch and end up replacing the switch. the relay can take more amps without frying, so it takes your major current, but it only lets the current through if it's "turned on". you turn it on when you flip your little .5 amp switch.

look to the left hand menu bar on this page and you'll see technical articles. there is a three part series on wiring electrical accessories in your truck. excellent reading material. it'll answer ALL your questions...

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"flexible hips mean higher steps"

2001 F-150 Supercab XLT 4x4 5.4L Auto in Silver
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Some switches are more than capable of handling a 9 amp load. The question is, however do you want to be running a heavier gauge wire up to your dash that will handle this current or a smaller gauge wire that will simply close a relay? Think about it, if you go to a hardware store and buy a toggle switch you can certainly find one that is rated for at least 9 amps but maybe not a whole lot more. Its all a matter of having that much current running around underneath your dash.

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A relay and solenoid are the same thing. Your iginition system is a larger version of what you need to do. The ignition switch turns on the solenoid/relay to power the starter.

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2000 F150 XLT 4x4 Short Bed. Amazon Green, 5.4L, SuperCab, ORP, Tow Package, Sliding Rear Window, Electronic Shift, Keyless Entry, LT265-70-17 Tires, Clarion Pro Audio, Herculiner Bedliner, Air Silencer Removed.

1994 SVT Mustang Cobra. #1032 of 6009. Black coupe with black leather int., 3.73 rear, Bassani Exhaust, Aluminum D/S, Bridgestone RE-71 255-45-ZR17

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Today I found an old relay I had for a old set of 55w fog lights, so I wired it in to be on the safe side. While I was rewiring some things I seen on the direstions sheet that same with the lights that the switch is rated for 12 amps. So I would be fine without the relay. The only thing that still bugs me is why I was blowing fuses. If the lights only draw a little over 9 amps, why was it blowing 15amp fuses. The only reason I can think of is that the hazard lights (where I was originally attaching to) use every bit of the 15 amps, but they should only use that 15 amps when turned on. I was blowing fuses as soon as I hooked the battery back up. Oh, well, fixed it another way, no biggie.

 

Thanks for the info.

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2001 F150 XLT Supercab Flareside "Sport"
Black
5.4
Smittybilt step bars