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Turn signal stopped working????? What tha…
http://www.f150online.com/forums/ele...-what-tha.html
ISSUE
Turn signals stopped working. Numerous members are saying they are having similar issues. The issue is caused by a connector in the steering column that breaks when the steering wheel is lowered.
Read below for the full discussion…
http://www.f150online.com/forums/ele...-what-tha.html
ISSUE
Turn signals stopped working. Numerous members are saying they are having similar issues. The issue is caused by a connector in the steering column that breaks when the steering wheel is lowered.
Read below for the full discussion…
turn signals stopped working????? what tha.....
#31
Well, I THOUGHT I fixed the problem, but it happened again just as I pulled into the inspection bay. Again, the flasher lights would light, but they would not flash. Sounded like the flasher module was bad.
Next step was to replace the flasher module. That was a bit of an annoyance because all of the info on the net was wrong or vague as hell.
The module is blue, and is about 1 inch by 1 inch by two inches. It's mounted to the top side, of the bottom of the dash, just to the left of the steering column (toward the driver's door side) very close to where the plastic stops and the open space under the dash starts. Here's the best way to get it out.
Remove the plastic kick plate that sits under the steering column. This is not the lower cover that surrounds the steering column itself. It's the 1 foot by 10 inch flat piece of plastic that keeps the wires under the dash hidden. You get this off by pulling two black bolts at the bottom, and then pulling the panel down at the top to unseat the clips. Pull down and toward the seat.
Remove the similar sized, metal plate that sits under this piece of plastic. It is held on by four bolts, and two tabs on the bottom of the plate that hook into the dash frame.
This will allow you to see the blue plastic box that is held to the dash frame by a plastic plate that uses christmas tree connectors to hold the module to the metal dash. The blue box slides into this plastic support piece, and does not lock. Push the blue plastic box parallel to this mounting plate toward where the wires enter the flasher module. Do NOT attempt to pull out the plate to disconnect the Christmas tree connectors from the metal dash frame.
Using a screwdriver, carefully unlock the blue plastic module assembly from the connector / wires, and unplug the module from the socket. The locking mechanism is one of those locking tab things. Careful not to break anything.
I got my replacement at Napa for about $18.00. The Tridon unit that I got at my chain parts store didn't work right. The Ford OEM has six electrical contacts, but only five are actually used. I removed the blue plastic shell from the Ford OEM part electronics, and slid the new unit into this cover. The cover will then slide back into the Christmas tree plate, keeping the new unit from banging around under the dash. I then reassembled the truck.
The unit is not attached to all the wires in the steering column. It's not in the fuse block, and is not under the hood.
Rog
Next step was to replace the flasher module. That was a bit of an annoyance because all of the info on the net was wrong or vague as hell.
The module is blue, and is about 1 inch by 1 inch by two inches. It's mounted to the top side, of the bottom of the dash, just to the left of the steering column (toward the driver's door side) very close to where the plastic stops and the open space under the dash starts. Here's the best way to get it out.
Remove the plastic kick plate that sits under the steering column. This is not the lower cover that surrounds the steering column itself. It's the 1 foot by 10 inch flat piece of plastic that keeps the wires under the dash hidden. You get this off by pulling two black bolts at the bottom, and then pulling the panel down at the top to unseat the clips. Pull down and toward the seat.
Remove the similar sized, metal plate that sits under this piece of plastic. It is held on by four bolts, and two tabs on the bottom of the plate that hook into the dash frame.
This will allow you to see the blue plastic box that is held to the dash frame by a plastic plate that uses christmas tree connectors to hold the module to the metal dash. The blue box slides into this plastic support piece, and does not lock. Push the blue plastic box parallel to this mounting plate toward where the wires enter the flasher module. Do NOT attempt to pull out the plate to disconnect the Christmas tree connectors from the metal dash frame.
Using a screwdriver, carefully unlock the blue plastic module assembly from the connector / wires, and unplug the module from the socket. The locking mechanism is one of those locking tab things. Careful not to break anything.
I got my replacement at Napa for about $18.00. The Tridon unit that I got at my chain parts store didn't work right. The Ford OEM has six electrical contacts, but only five are actually used. I removed the blue plastic shell from the Ford OEM part electronics, and slid the new unit into this cover. The cover will then slide back into the Christmas tree plate, keeping the new unit from banging around under the dash. I then reassembled the truck.
The unit is not attached to all the wires in the steering column. It's not in the fuse block, and is not under the hood.
Rog
#32
ok guys and gals
I have a 2004 F250 SuperDuty 6.0L and the turn signals stopped working, there was a buzzing noise, so I replaced the relay, under the steering wheel just a hair to the right.
After replacing it, the buzzing noise went away, and the normal clicking relay noise came back, but the lights did not work for the turn signals and also did not show up in the dash.
After reading some other replies online, I tried pressing the hazard lights ON/OFF switch on top of the steering wheel, and then the turn signal started to works again, both in lights and in the dash, so that's all it took.
Maybe when the relay goes bad, it resets the system somehow, so in addition to replacing the relay, you have to press that Hazard Switch, they seem to be related somehow in the circuit.
I have a 2004 F250 SuperDuty 6.0L and the turn signals stopped working, there was a buzzing noise, so I replaced the relay, under the steering wheel just a hair to the right.
After replacing it, the buzzing noise went away, and the normal clicking relay noise came back, but the lights did not work for the turn signals and also did not show up in the dash.
After reading some other replies online, I tried pressing the hazard lights ON/OFF switch on top of the steering wheel, and then the turn signal started to works again, both in lights and in the dash, so that's all it took.
Maybe when the relay goes bad, it resets the system somehow, so in addition to replacing the relay, you have to press that Hazard Switch, they seem to be related somehow in the circuit.
Last edited by kodiak_f250; 08-08-2010 at 11:29 PM.
#33
Same issue here. 2001 F-150 Lariat, if I push the signal up/down I here the click under the dash to the right of the column but no lights, some times just a brief flash on the dash light. Nothing front, back or on the mirrors.
If my foot is on the brake the brake light will go off when I push the directional for that side. Kind of like its shorting out.
Hazards work fine.
Just wondering if anyone knows where the relay is on the 01 Lariat is...
If my foot is on the brake the brake light will go off when I push the directional for that side. Kind of like its shorting out.
Hazards work fine.
Just wondering if anyone knows where the relay is on the 01 Lariat is...
#35
Guess I will take the column apart this weekend and see If I can find broken wires..
#37
#39
#40
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
Posts: 10,511
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Have you tried raising the tilt all the way to the top, and test again.
The connector at the base of the steering wheel column some times pull apart, causing the problem. This connector is at the base of the steering wheel.
If this has gone on long enough, the connector might have a broken connector tab.
The connector at the base of the steering wheel column some times pull apart, causing the problem. This connector is at the base of the steering wheel.
If this has gone on long enough, the connector might have a broken connector tab.
#41
I have tried raising the colomn with no luck, even took it apart and checked for disconnected wires.
I can hear the clicking from under the dash at the same area the hazard sound comes from, so it seems to be making contact at the column, just no lights....
Im sure its a simple fix, I just cant figure out what to replace, so it looks like its heading to the mechanic when I get the extra $
I can hear the clicking from under the dash at the same area the hazard sound comes from, so it seems to be making contact at the column, just no lights....
Im sure its a simple fix, I just cant figure out what to replace, so it looks like its heading to the mechanic when I get the extra $
#42
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Under the flightpath of old ORD 22R
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Did you take the connector apart, and check for discoloration ?
The wires will look like they are in the connector correctly, but they are being pulled apart in the connector housing itself.
Was there slack on the MFS connector ?
The other thing is did you test the MFS ? Could be the MFS contacts for the turn signals are having the issue, not the connector.
The wires will look like they are in the connector correctly, but they are being pulled apart in the connector housing itself.
Was there slack on the MFS connector ?
The other thing is did you test the MFS ? Could be the MFS contacts for the turn signals are having the issue, not the connector.
#43
There is a known problem with the 97-03 models, that involves a connector in the steering column that breaks when the steering wheel is lowered, causing the turn signals to fail. This could be the problem that some of you are experiencing.
If you can get your signals back by raising the steering wheel, you will know for sure that this is the problem. However, the connector can pull apart far enough that they don't work no matter what position you set the steering wheel. The only way to tell in that case is to remove the column housing to see for yourself.
The following thread contains a repair procedure that I wrote, including a picture of the connector:
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=318028
If you can get your signals back by raising the steering wheel, you will know for sure that this is the problem. However, the connector can pull apart far enough that they don't work no matter what position you set the steering wheel. The only way to tell in that case is to remove the column housing to see for yourself.
The following thread contains a repair procedure that I wrote, including a picture of the connector:
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=318028
#44
#45
Not very easy to get to.
The flasher is above the OBDII connector on the lower part of the dash on the side by the accelerator pedal. Two relays sit side by side in the sockets, one is the blower motor relay and the other is the flasher relay. They have a black pastic cover taped over them.
It's easiest to remove the lower panel and remove the two bolts just above the OBDII plug for the metal bracket holding the dual socket in place. Or you can skip that step and toss a light under the dash and practice being a contortionist and try to remove the cover and then the relay. The flasher is the taller of the two. Make sure you don't accidentally knock the blower motor relay loose in its socket or you'll have no fan.