I have a 2000 F150 4x4 extended cab. Currently I have the cig lighter and power port both used (radar detector and XM). I'm trying to find a low power location I can use for the radar detector..so I can free up one of my power ports. I don't want to use a "lighter splitter" as that puts more stuff in that vicinity. Any ideas? I was hoping to find a "spare" location in the fuse panel and use that...however all the "spares" in the fuse panel are not pinned for connections...thus are not available. I'm trying not to run more cables to the engine compartment as I'm fixing to run my Amateur radio power cables...and I don't need more headaches if I can avoid them.

 

I simply tapped into a fuse that comes on with the ignition and used that for my radar....... hope that helps!

 

So you "piggybacked" your radar detector on the fuse box under the dash for the ignition?

They make "spade" type connectors for mini blade fuses?

 

Check out an "Add a Fuse" to tap into your fuse box safely. My radar detector is wired (using one of these) into my fuse box so that it only comes on with the ignition. No need to alert potential thieves to your truck by having your detector scream when the truck is off.

 

Can you give me a supply house that has "add a fuse" for mini fuses? The local parts house has these only in regular spade fuse. I need to hard wire my siruis radio so that it goes off with the ignition.

Thanks

 

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=071-580

There you go, you could probably find one cheaper at your local parts store but this is what you are looking for. Fins a fuse that only comes on with the key. Pull that fuse and put this in its place, the piece of wire that is running from it would connect to your radar.

 

Thanks, Exactly what I was looking for

 

Thanks to all.

I decided on the add-a-fuse idea. Autozone here in Alabama sells the mini as well as the regular style blade add-a-fuse set up.

I'll be wiring up my detector straight now! Thanks again.

Anyone have any suggestions on a fuse to use other than "one that comes on with the ignition"? If not...I'll figure which one I can use...I'm just trying to figure one out with a low duty cycle/low usage.

 

For something as low draw as a Radar Detector I always just tap the radio fuse. It is ignition controlled and basicly a non essential function of the car if by some chance you blew the fuses. I have tapped the Radio fuse with the part I linked to above in about 10 cars and never once had any sort of problem.

 

Rgr that TruBLuGT. Thanks.

Yeah I'm actually looking at doing two items....the radar detector is the first...and the XM SkyFi2 is the 2nd.

 

I've never seen a fuse tap like that but it's cool. I'll have to pick a couple up. Is it possible to put one of those in upside down where you would end up getting power from the existing fuse instead of from the hot side of the fuse box? I would assume it's meant to be isolated from the existing fuse so if one blows the other won't.

 

Well if I blow one...I'll let you know!

 

Not sure if this answers your question or not but here goes. The setup I linked to above works in tandem with your existing fuse, but allows the accsesory device to be isolated from the existing fuse to a degree. For example if you are feeding a radar detector off of it and it is hooked into the Radio fuse. If the radar detector somehow blows its fuse it will not blow the fuse for the radio, on the other hand if the radio fuse blows I am almost certian it will shut down power to the radar detector.

This device will not add any additional load capacity to the original fuse.


As for the radar and XM, you might want to see if you can find out the current draw of each, I would be more than willing to bet that both could be hooked together on one fuse as neither the radar or XM are large current items.

If you need more current, I have used thoes taps with Nitrous systems, using the power from the tap to switch on a relay that can handle the larger current draw.

 

The best way to find out would be to plug it in both ways without the "radio" fuse in. If the radar detector works one direction and not the other then there is a "right way" to insert it which would be in the direction the radar detector works with the radio fuse out.
If it doesn't work in either direction then the draw from the radar detector is also drawing through the radio fuse which is putting more load on it.

I know it might just be nitpicking to some but to me it would be important. If you just pulled the radio fuse out of the fuse box and turned the key on one side in the fuse box will still have power, that's the side you would want the extra power lead connected to if it will be fused. If you're not going to fuse that extra power lead then you would hook it to the other side which would be protected by the radio fuse but would also add more draw to that fuse. The same principal would apply to using a fuse tap.

 

Installing the Add a fuse in upside down or backwards will cause the load to be added to the Radio fuse, same as adding the fuse to the radio wiring harness ( less the strain on the factory wiring harness ).

This could be a case of trying to draw more power then the Radio ( and in '01 the GEM & RKE ) factory fuse was designed for, causing it to blow due to over load vs. a circuit short to ground.

Here is what it could look like, taking into account that max continual load is 80% of the fuse size ( typical sizing consideration ).


You are gaining nothing, and placing a load on the factory fuse for no reason by installing it this way. Install the add a fuse the way it was intended to be, the common buss on the supply ( i.e. Hot in Run position ) side of the fuse opening.

This is what Larry was trying to describe in text, I really just added the visual part to the thread.