A Good Reason To Monitor Voltage
#1
A Good Reason To Monitor Voltage
As I've said previously, I have a PHP CTS in my truck and I monitor "Battery Voltage" (which is really the alternator voltage when the engine is running). Normally, with a fully charged battery, it is in the 14.0-14.1V range when driving the truck.
Now, my truck is really a garage queen unless I need it for towing or hauling big loads. It rests happily in my garage on a battery minder to keep the battery charged.
I had a reason to use it two weeks ago (visiting family and five adults fit it better than they do my little Honda), and it had not been used since our last trip in June. I was a bit puzzled to see the voltage reading on the CTS at only about 13.5-13.6V. But, things seemed otherwise fine through three different trips involving two starts and stops each.
Then, I decided to check the voltages at my trailer plug in preparation for a trip we're taking next week. I was shocked to see the voltage at 11.1V with the ignition ON, engine off. I immediately tried to start the truck and noticed the starter turned slower than normal.
Well, the upshot is the battery was failing (probably a shorted cell) at about the 4 year mark. With a new battery, the running voltage is again 14.0-14.1V.
So, I had "early warning" of a failing battery - given to me by the gauges in the CTS. It's something to keep in mind if you monitor voltage like I do.
- Jack
Now, my truck is really a garage queen unless I need it for towing or hauling big loads. It rests happily in my garage on a battery minder to keep the battery charged.
I had a reason to use it two weeks ago (visiting family and five adults fit it better than they do my little Honda), and it had not been used since our last trip in June. I was a bit puzzled to see the voltage reading on the CTS at only about 13.5-13.6V. But, things seemed otherwise fine through three different trips involving two starts and stops each.
Then, I decided to check the voltages at my trailer plug in preparation for a trip we're taking next week. I was shocked to see the voltage at 11.1V with the ignition ON, engine off. I immediately tried to start the truck and noticed the starter turned slower than normal.
Well, the upshot is the battery was failing (probably a shorted cell) at about the 4 year mark. With a new battery, the running voltage is again 14.0-14.1V.
So, I had "early warning" of a failing battery - given to me by the gauges in the CTS. It's something to keep in mind if you monitor voltage like I do.
- Jack
#2
#3
I watch mine all the time too although truck sat through some -30C nights and it cooked the battery, no warning, just wouldn't hold a charge ever again. I also want to note my alternator varies a lot more than just 14.0-14.1V. Its been anywhere from 13.6-14.8V, usually hangs around 14.2V most of the time.
#4
Amen, I have volt meters on both GoldWings and I use my ScanGageII in the vehicles ('95, '01, '03 and '07) that have OBDII terminals. I periodically check running battery volts in the '77 and '92, both could use a real live volt meter though (one has a "semi volt meter" and one an amp meter).
#5
i noticed this too. last week i put a new battery in my truck. original battery in an 07. one morning it cranked a little slower than usual, it had been runnning 13.7ish volts running, which i thought was normal. i work at advance auto and tested my battery, said charge required, had about 420 cca out of 540cca. this usually means the batterys not dead yet but is on its way out, so i replaced it with a 65 series battery (not that worthless 59) and now its always at 14.1 or 14.2. if you monitor the battery voltage youll know when you need a battery.
#6
Amen, I have volt meters on both GoldWings and I use my ScanGageII in the vehicles ('95, '01, '03 and '07) that have OBDII terminals. I periodically check running battery volts in the '77 and '92, both could use a real live volt meter though (one has a "semi volt meter" and one an amp meter).
The other reason I didn't really worry about the low reading when I first saw it was because I'm used to seeing that value when I'm towing, and charging two extra batteries in the trailer as well as supplying power to the refrigerator in the trailer. I should have put two and two together. (*duh*) The lower Voltage is a symptom of a high current draw, what you get when you power a lot of extra equipment, or when you are trying to charge a shorted (or badly discharged) battery.
Sometimes I amaze myself when I fail to recognize the most obvious clues. *headslap*
- Jack
#7