Gryphon EOT Alert ??
#1
#2
My alert for EOT is 250 degrees. I've seen it get close to this climbing a 12-mile, 7% grade in 100 degree heat while pulling a trailer at 65 mph and in 2nd gear. Note, this is not something I like to do, but when you're on a 75 mph Interstate, it's not cool to be the slowest thing in traffic.
- Jack
#4
201-202 deg. Alarm came on again today under normal driving. and stayed on for about 5 min. even after getting on the hwy. I did notice the throttle felt a bit rough or raspy(not sure how to describe it) and then it went away. I had the radio up and hadnt noticed the gryphon was flashing until i felt the truck running different and thats when I looked up and saw it flashing.
What could be causing my EOT to be going up like this ?? Also what are the cons of having elevated oil temps ??
I then changed my display setting and watched my EOT for the rest of the day and it was between 184-189 ..
What could be causing my EOT to be going up like this ?? Also what are the cons of having elevated oil temps ??
I then changed my display setting and watched my EOT for the rest of the day and it was between 184-189 ..
#5
201-202 deg. Alarm came on again today under normal driving. and stayed on for about 5 min. even after getting on the hwy. I did notice the throttle felt a bit rough or raspy(not sure how to describe it) and then it went away. I had the radio up and hadnt noticed the gryphon was flashing until i felt the truck running different and thats when I looked up and saw it flashing.
What could be causing my EOT to be going up like this ?? Also what are the cons of having elevated oil temps ??
I then changed my display setting and watched my EOT for the rest of the day and it was between 184-189 ..
What could be causing my EOT to be going up like this ?? Also what are the cons of having elevated oil temps ??
I then changed my display setting and watched my EOT for the rest of the day and it was between 184-189 ..
Now, if you're driving around in someplace cold like Alaska, you might see temps like yours, but here in Tucson, mine are in the 205-215 degree range. And, I've never had the truck "run rough", even when the CHT went up to 225 and the EOT went to 245.
While VERY high temperatures will degrade oil, you'd probably get an oil change before it was degraded to the point it might harm your engine. The only "upper limit" on oil temperature I know of is the "flash point" and as I recall that's somewhere around 350 degrees.
The engine will not go into "fail safe mode" until the CHT reaches 258. It automatically shuts down at a CHT of 310 degrees.
- Jack
#6
I'm in the same situation as the OP... just no alert. I monitored it today and for a 8 mile drive in 60* weather my EOT raised to a max of 174 and the CHT was 180s. I've had a suspicion that my truck might be running a bit rich on the tune... It was lean before so I wonder if Bill over compensated... in the winter, my engine temp gauge or whatever it is on the dash doesn't even hit the center mark
#7
I'm in the same situation as the OP... just no alert. I monitored it today and for a 8 mile drive in 60* weather my EOT raised to a max of 174 and the CHT was 180s. I've had a suspicion that my truck might be running a bit rich on the tune... It was lean before so I wonder if Bill over compensated... in the winter, my engine temp gauge or whatever it is on the dash doesn't even hit the center mark
I have no clue here. But I KNOW that Ford really wants the engine to run in the 200-210 degree range, and I think that's where it should be.
Edit: A somewhat rich tune on a gasser WILL run cooler, but 20 degrees is ridiculous.
- Jack
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#8
I did have a coil go bad last winter and fouled plugs (since changed)... would it have fouled an O2 sensor and make the readings off? For a while I was getting a P0430 code, but haven't seen it since February. I just posted on a thread I had on PHP... wonder if it might need an adjustment. Any thoughts on what readings to get for Bill to datalog the tune from my Gryphon Jack?
#9
I did have a coil go bad last winter and fouled plugs (since changed)... would it have fouled an O2 sensor and make the readings off? For a while I was getting a P0430 code, but haven't seen it since February. I just posted on a thread I had on PHP... wonder if it might need an adjustment. Any thoughts on what readings to get for Bill to datalog the tune from my Gryphon Jack?
The CHT and EOT readings are from totally independent sensors. They have nothing to do with an O2 sensor reading or with each other. (But, unless the engine is under load, the CHT and EOT readings will be very close.)
I honestly have no clue why your engine should be running so cool, unless you're in Alaska.
Longshot270 has been doing a lot with datalogging, while I've done nothing (never had to), so he might have some ideas. He's a Mod at PHP, and he has a good mind. Make sure he knows about this. PM him if necessary.
- Jack
#10
Well to add more to the pot... did more observing today. The truck cold was in the 60s for both iirc. Then it slowly raised the EOT up to a max of 174 and the CHT up to 188 and a max of 190 when under a load. This included some back roads (30-35 mph) then merging onto the state road (40-45) then finally getting on the highway where I was 62-65 mph for say 8-10 miles, then merged to another highway for 1 miles and then on a state road with speeds 40-45 for 4 miles. I did a data stream so I will check it tonight when I get home to see if it says anything.
I appreciate your help Jack and I'll pm this thread to Longshot
I appreciate your help Jack and I'll pm this thread to Longshot
#12
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Possibly - Now that I think of it (my brain cells seem to take longer and longer to kick in nowadays), the thermostat, when it "fails", fails to the open position, which would make sense, since it wouldn't leave you stranded with an overheated engine.
Now, the normal opening temperature of the stat is 195 degrees, and it opens just a little bit at that temp. As things get hotter, it opens more. It's probably full open at 205-210. Once it opens fully, it no longer controls the engine temps and things are governed by the health of your radiator, coolent level and the speed of the fluid clutch driven fan (as well as airflow due to vehicle speed, outside air temperature and so on).
Now, if the stat is stuck full open, the engine will warm up very slowly. You should see a more rich running engine and your gas usage should be higher. If the outside air temperature is not too high and your engine load is low, it may never reach normal operating temperature in the time you drive it, and even if it does, it might cool down below that point if the stat is full open.
So, now that I'm finally seeing the "obvious", I think it would be a good idea to inspect, and you might as well replace the thermostat. They are pretty cheap (at least they used to be), and if you go to the trouble of getting it out, you might as well put in a new one.
This seems a more logical and simple explanation than a software error in the programmer, since it explains all your symptoms.
Here in Tucson, with our current 100 degree outside temps, my truck would probably reach normal operating temperature even with the stat fully open.
Good on ya, glc!
- Jack
Now, the normal opening temperature of the stat is 195 degrees, and it opens just a little bit at that temp. As things get hotter, it opens more. It's probably full open at 205-210. Once it opens fully, it no longer controls the engine temps and things are governed by the health of your radiator, coolent level and the speed of the fluid clutch driven fan (as well as airflow due to vehicle speed, outside air temperature and so on).
Now, if the stat is stuck full open, the engine will warm up very slowly. You should see a more rich running engine and your gas usage should be higher. If the outside air temperature is not too high and your engine load is low, it may never reach normal operating temperature in the time you drive it, and even if it does, it might cool down below that point if the stat is full open.
So, now that I'm finally seeing the "obvious", I think it would be a good idea to inspect, and you might as well replace the thermostat. They are pretty cheap (at least they used to be), and if you go to the trouble of getting it out, you might as well put in a new one.
This seems a more logical and simple explanation than a software error in the programmer, since it explains all your symptoms.
Here in Tucson, with our current 100 degree outside temps, my truck would probably reach normal operating temperature even with the stat fully open.
Good on ya, glc!
- Jack