i have a 1995 f-150 4x4 with the beautiful 5.8 in it. I am searching for what kind of options i have for a chip and tune. i plan on getting a cold air intake and headers to start off with. im completely clueless when it comes to chips. enlighten me?

 

Don't waste your money on a chip. You should set your timing instead; go to FordFuelInjection.com and it gives step by step on how to adjust. Anything above factory timing and you will need to run a higher octane fuel.

There is an abundance of info on www.nloc.net, Generartion 1 link.

 

What Blue07STX is telling you is good advice. Your truck has a speed density EFI unit, so there is not a whole lot to tweak like the later mass air EFI controllers. Bumping the timing can help, but you will have to run higher octane. You might get away with 87 octane and bumping the timing from 10 to 12. I ran 16 with 93 octane. Ford's timing calibration is set to run off of 10 degrees base timing, but the timing is adjustable with the distributor unlike later EFI models. Forget the cold air intake and just open up the baffle inside the air box. Most cold air intakes just ingest hot under hood air, which affects much of the tuning parameters. When the IAT detects hot air in the intake it starts to remove timing and starts to add fuel. Since these trucks are calibrated on the rich side, neither will help. Adding headers will help some and really won't affect the tune. Bassani makes a good equal length shorty header and has a good y-pipe with high flow cats. That's about the extent of what you can do with requiring a custom tune, which isn't easy to do with speed density.

 

a k&n intake wont help me at all then? im trying to get better MPG, cuz this thing is a hog. and i want more power and a better sound. the way this thing sounds now is like its choking. ive got straight pipes. single pipe all the way then split before the axle. it runs great and i have no problems. i just want better. i need to get a high flow cat sometime. this isnt gona be done right away. i know a couple people with an intake and it sounds amazing. i cant get into anything to complicated cuz im not that good with it. and i need it about everyday. any more suggestions now that you know what im looking for?

 

The main problem with these engines are the heads and camshaft. The valves are small and the ports are constrictive. The camshaft is pretty mild as well. However, it does promote pretty decent torque. These engines just can't be as efficient as the mass air EFI engines and the body style has all the aerodynamics of a brick. EPA highway for these older trucks was only like 14-16 mpg.

Are you running oversized tires or your rig? Do you have a lift? What gears are in the axles?

Let me mention this too. It happened to me with my 92 Bronco before I converted it to mass air and installed a built engine. I routinely check my mileage. I typically knocked down 15 mpg on a steady highway cruise. On one trip my mileage plummeted to around 10 mpg and the truck was running rather sluggish and the engine indicator came on. It ended up being a defective fuel pressure regulator. The fuel pressure regulator also has a vacuum signal to reduce fuel pressure a few psi at low load (high vacuum) operation. On a 15 year old truck, I'd be willing to bet you have no vacuum going to that regulator. The cheap plastic vacuum lines begin to disintegrate after a few years. I would likewise look into that if your fuel pressure is in spec.

 

i was about to tell u that. im running 33x10.50r15. stock rims, oversize tires. my engine light does come on once in a while. ive checked fuel pressure. my front tank pump is weak(i cant start the truck on it but i can drive on it). so it will need to be replaced in the coming months. i have no lift but want to get a 3-4 inch within 6 months. and i have stock gears in axles, whichever they are. idk for sure. that might be a slight problem. ill check on what you just told me. because it does idle 100-200 rpm off once in a while. that will help. headers. how hard are they to put in? can i go from underneath? and how to open the air baffles? should i at least get a high flow air filter? im not really gonna mess with anything else except air and exhaust flow. and maybe timing like u said. i just want them MPG's. the truck is old. but man its in great shape. high mileage, but it was babied every mile. everything is starting to get around again to where it needs work. so im sure ill find more problems.

 

A new cap & rotor, ignition coil, plug wires, Motorcraft or Autolite copper plugs, O2 sensor (s), fuel filter, drop-in Airaid, Amsoil or Motorcraft air filter will help your fuel mileage.

 

now i wish i had the money to do all this. after my lift il start in on actual engine work. but ill do anything simple before. like the baffle thing. but ill need to know exactly what to do and if ill have to mess with any electronics. i would prefer to stay away from that. timing is no big deal.

 

Check ou the timing advance procedure on FordFuelInjection.com before attempting a timing change. There is a plug that MUST be removed before advancing the timing. If this is not accomplished you will only be wasting your time...

I would start with the basics. Always go with quality brand parts when it comes to these trucks. Cheap ignition parts will need to be replaced in 12,000 miles and good parts can go 24 to 36,000 miles. I would check out RockAuto.com or SummitRacing.com for any parts you may need.

It won't do you any good to go with bigger tires if it isn't running safely and properly. How are your brake rotors, pads, bearings and hoses? Something to consider before a wheel or tire upgrade.

Baffles??? Some of the fresh air tube/tubes have a noise reducing baffle inside the tube. The tube must be removed from the (TB) throttle body and look inside. A K&N open element filter will bring in more warm air and it will also bring in more dirt and water. The water is a killer for sure. Rain and or water will run down the inner fender directly on to the filter. The filter will be useless and you will run the risk of seizing your engine. I would go with an Amsoil, Airaid, WIX or Motorcraft air filter.

Also, go to the NLOC.net website. There is a load of info under the Generation 1 link. I go by Ranchero1968 on the NLOC and I have a '94 Gen. 1 Lightning. PM if you have any ???

 

windsor was talking about opening air baffles.. idk how i could do that. i already have my tires. im not going any bigger. i do need to find a way to improve my brakes. i heard braided lines helps? any suggestions. its safe. it runs. and ive decided that since i dont know the last time anything has been done im going with a complete tuneup. spark plugs, wires, rotor, all that good stuff. had an engine flush first day i had it. already ran lucas injector cleaner through it. as soon as i change the oil ill put oil treatment in. ill PM ya. thanks alot for all your help.

 

Braided brake lines will help firm up your brake pedal somewhat. They will definitely last longer than standard hoses. I would re-pack the front wheel bearings every few years especially if the truck is driven in a lot of rain, water, dirt or mud. There may not be a baffle in the fresh air intake hoses. Remove the tubes between the throttle body and air box. Remove any obstruction inside the tubes. Leave any wire that may be inside them as they keep the soft tubes from collapsing under full throttle. Reintstall the tubes. You can also replace the filter with a drop in filter. You will not gain much with a hi flow drop-in filter but it will last a lot longer than a paper filter. Amsoil, WIX or Motorcraft air filters are a good bet anytime.

I would use Autolite Copper or Motorcraft Copper plugs only. A good quality set of plug wires, a Brass contact/Heavy Duty cap & rotor, a ACCEL or MSD ignition coil and a set of ACCEL or MSD plug wires. Also go to fordfuelinjection.com and tweek your timing to 12* and run with 88/89 octane fuel. If it isn't pre-detonating (pinging) you should be good to go. Anything higher than 12* and you will need to run Super Unleaded. Don't forget a new fuel filter before timing bump.

 

If there is a baffle your intake it will be in the air box that the air filter resides in. Look for any obstruction near any air opening either coming into the air box or going to the throttle body.

You're tire choice is causing some of your gas mileage woes, but if you've never recalibrated your speedometer, it's giving you incorrect miles on the odometer which you're likely using in your mpg calculations. Recalibrating the speedometer is not difficult, but you will need to look up your revolution per mile data for your current tires.

The only suggestion I have for brakes is to make sure you're using semi-metallic pads. These trucks don't stop worth a darn with organic brake pads. Ceramics brake pads work well too.

I left out disconnecting the SPOUT connector to adjust your timing. On my Bronco it was located along the top of the inner fender of the driver side.