I'd think your GPS would be "dead accurate" if it has stabilized. Again, the dashboard speedo will read about 2 mph faster in the 65-70 mph range, because Ford designed it that way. So, you'd like to calibrate things so that the dash reads 72 when your GPS reads 70.

- Jack

 

Well the change on the TS did it. Thanks for the help!

 

ok i need y'alls help once again... had a blow out on one of my tires and decided to go ahead and buy all new tires and put it back to stock size (265/60R18). I put the correct number (2435) into the programmer and man it was way off! Any and all help would be grateful!!

 

Just can't leave well enough alone, can you? The 2435mm value does not account for "squish" (reduction in effective tire diameter due to the weight on the tires).

Try a circumference of somewhere between 2385mm and 2362mm. (I'd actually lean more toward the 2385 figure, since you have 60-series tires, but it should be somewhere in that range.)

- Jack

 

dude it was a bad weekend... a/c went out, found a leak coming from the third brake light, passenger front window regulator went out, and the blow out...

 

Yow! You'll almost have a "new" truck, won't you?

I guess this is just one of the joys of "ownership". We just dropped a large amount of change on the A/C units in our home, and last year I had a BIG bill on my daily driver (car). So far, no real bad things with the truck, but I can't help wondering when the 3rd shoe will drop!

- Jack

 

well the a/c issue stems from the previous owner having a front end crash and doing the repairs without the insurance company knowing... when i bought the truck i had the dealership install a new a/c condenser unit... somehow in the year that i have had it the main core support that holds the hood latch, frontal impact sensor and that other thing, has bent back into the unit causing a leak... the bolt from the "other thing" that stick out the back side punctured it... apparently it's not covered under my extended warranty along with all the other things that went wrong...

 

So are you still running the maxed out settings? Is there any reason why you raised the shift points to the max? Same for WOT fuel.

Your WOT shifts that go by RPM look good but the other shift points that go by +5 (mph) or so are just regular driving and do not impact WOT. There really isn't any need for that unless you want really late shift points. So far I've found that usually wastes gas.

You might also want to try a lower value for the WOT fuel. If you just jumped it up to 1.5 then you could have completely bypassed your peak point. I found that 1.3s usually work best but every truck is different. Just dont make big jumps without testing the intermediate steps.

...and I run 16.5 according to the programmer and 17 at the drag strip @ 81 mph so there is an error from things like tire size.

 

from what i understand if your running a cai you should have fuel somewhere close to 1.5 to prevent lean

 

Where did you find this information, Drew? I'm not doubting it, because I don't think I really understand the WOT fueling at all. So, if you have some additional information that might help me, I'll be grateful.

Mostly, I've seen changing the WOT fueling causing problems. The way Bill Cohron explained it, it seemed to be a "demand" setting, one that would allow additional fuel if the PCM thought it needed it. But, changing it seemed to really screw up the A/F ratio. As a result, I've been telling people to leave it alone.

- Jack

 

Well yes, but it doesn't make sense to just randomly plug numbers in the slot just because somebody else did it. You should start lower and gradually add fuel until you find the value for peak power for your truck. The standard WOT fuel rate for the canned gryphon tunes is 1.10 (110%). On my own I found that the 1.3 range provided the best power for me. I didn't get that number by just trusting what somebody on the internet said.

Also, unless you spend the majority of your time at WOT that adjustment will not help fight the lean condition.

 

i'm not running most of those values anymore... thats what i started with and through time and going to the drag strip and doing my own test and tunes on back roads some values went down. i'm still messing with the shift points trying to find the sweet spot... probably going to hit the track soon for some tests...

 

Yeah, shift points can be tricky

If you know when your truck is going to shift I've gotten my best times by carefully letting off the throttle to induce a downshift then hammering back down once it is settled in gear. Worked well on the street but I never got around to trying it on the track.