You should read the manual. It will answer all your questions.

 

ive read the manual over a dozen times. it states nothing in there about a 3% area for squish factor...why dont you locate it and prove me wrong...

 

I don't believe anyone said that specifically is in there. It is not. But most of the questions you have raised are in there. That was simply offered as advice on how to get the speedometer accurate. I have had to go as high as 5%, it depends on the sidwall flex of your tires.

 

its just a name for the height of the tire that is lost by having the weight of the truck on it. like when you look at the tire and at the bottom where it's hitting the ground it kind or buldges out, it's that.

so if your tire size is 2559mm then multiply that number by 3%, or 0.03. actually that number is different for each tire like mine are fairly large so i did it by 0.04 and it was perfect. anywho once you multiply it by 0.03 you get 76.77, about 77mms, now subtract that from your tire size and you get 2482mm.

so try putting 2482 in for your tire size and i think it should be about spot on. if you have a gps then put it in the truck and drive around to test it.

 

If you've read it over a dozen times you should have been able to answer your own questions. It discusses: IMPG, adjusting shift points, adjusting shift firmness, etc...

Once you get everything set how it should be you will be impressed.

 

Tsargent - there's a lot of conflicting information bouncing around here that is generally correct, but is potentially confusing you! I'm going to pronounce myself the "expert" here and give you my best advice - I've done a ton of talking with Bill Cohron, who is mostly responsible for the software and hardware design in your unit and here's what you should do:

If your truck is "stock", in regards to Tire Size (TS) and Gear Ratio (GR), just select a program you want to use, bypass the Custom Options menu, and let it load the tune. You actually need to do this even if the TS and GR are not stock on the first tune (the manual recommends this), so that the Edge can build it's initial files correctly. If you have not done that, do it now.

The TS and GR will be taken from the VID section of your PCM, which is never changed, and you should see speed and mileage figures that were at least as accurate as they were when the truck was sent from the factory.

Inst MPG WILL be all over the place, according to load. Avg MPG won't be, but it will be an average of your last 27 hours of driving - probably about 6 tankfuls. I doubt it would ever match a hand calculation at fill up.

Now, IF you decide you need to "customize something", it gets confusing! As soon as you open the Custom Options menu, both the TS and GR will possibly be wrong! They are not taken from the VID, or, from a previous tune! If you immediately proceed to load the program at that point, those wrong, "placeholder" values will be the ones loaded with your tune. You need to check and correct if necessary, both TS and GR. The TS value that Ford put in your VID section assumed a 5% squish factor for the stock tires, probably because people drive around on underinflated tires. Your tires are the same as mine: 2559mm (275/65R18), but that is the circumference without the "squish" (weight on the tires) effect. I've found 3% works for me, so I use 2559 x 0.97 = 2482mm. Set this, make sure your GR is correct, mine is 3.73, then move on and change any other option you'd like. When you select "Done", you will create a "Custom Options" file that holds all these values. It will also program your PCM.

Now, next time you want to change tunes and if you open the Custom Options menu again, the first thing you MUST do is scroll to and select "Reload Custom Options"! That will reset your TS and GR to correct values (there'll be a tiny difference in TS due to "rounding" but it's not important) and any other options like WOT shift points, etc, will also be loaded. If you don't want to change anything, go ahead and select "Done" and reprogram. If you DO change anything though, it changes the "Custom Options" file! There's only ONE of these files - the last one you used!

Hopefully, I've not confused you. If I have, just ask me to re-explain.

- Jack

 

Amen. I practically memorized mine before I installed the tuner.

 

X2, I learned that the hard way. Had a bunch of general questions that were covered right in the manual. Now that I have read it, I am good to go.


THat and I love my Edge. Next stop, PHP for some custom tunes...

Later,
Devildog101

 

I was a little confused. But, let me mention before I forget. Only thing other than the EDGE that I have messed with is the air intake, I took the piece off that goes into the fender and attached a peice of flex tube onto the intake "flex tube" and ran it down toward the lower grill opening. But, before/after doing so, I didn't remove the Negative on the battery. Should I have done so?

As far as the Edge does, I have ran all 3 levels, and have stayed with level 2. I went into Custom Tunes on level 2 and changed TS and GR only and hit DONE. and let it load and ran it that way. Now if I want to get out of those Custom settings and put them back where they were, is that where I go to "reload custom options"??? I'm also having a lot of trouble with what seems to be the Torq Converter lock/unlock or the trans feeling like it's about to fall apart or similar to a misfire/not getting fuel type of issue going on. ANY SUGGESTIONS???

My trucks still under warranty til September of 2011. But that defeats the purpose, this Edge should work. My MPGs has risen from 12.2 to 17.6 just from 1.5 tanks of gas. Also I only run 87 octane in my truck (its FFV-Flex Fuel Vehicle), could the slipping feel be caused by too low octane number?

One last thing, I read somewhere in the manual about the OSS and TSS should always equal each other on the display as far as numbers go. My DONT. And it says if they dont then there's some SLIPPING somewhere in the trans??? Is this correct???

 

I'm a noob with an Evo and the Instruction Book answered all my questions. As far as the gear ratio goes, I went to a dealer and had them look it up for me, no charge. So far I've been able to squeeze 21 mpg highway and about 16-18 mpg city depending on whether or not I crush the fun pedal. My mods are to extreme either, I did the poormans CAI, a.k.a., PVC pipe and a drop in, million mile air filter dumping into a Borla SI/DO exhaust (love the sound) and no complaints.

 

No, you don't have to disconnect the battery at all for the "intake mod". You don't really have to run the flex tube down to the grill opening either. By putting a short piece of flex tube from the intake into the fender well, you are getting "cool" air. And, you are getting a pretty straight airflow path. Running the tube down to the lower grill might give you a bit of "ram" effect at high speed, but it also makes the airflow path more complicated, increasing turbulence, which may have a negative effect.

I WOULD try reloading Level 2, but this time bypass the Custom Options menu completely. This will allow the Edge to create it's "base tune" files. Run your truck on that tune for a while and see how it does. See if this "cures" your TC behavior. Now, if you have a TS or GR that is different than what came from the factory, you can change this tune by reprogramming to Level 2 again, this time opening the "Custom Options" menu, and physically entering the correct TS and GR. Scroll to "Done" and let it program. You have now created a new "custom options file". From now on, any time you open Custom Options, the first thing you do is scroll to and "Reload Custom Options" to get that TS and GR back.

No - Your truck is designed to use 87 octane gas but can "adapt" properly to E-85. If you use E-85, expect your fuel economy to suffer. I cannot see how the gas you use would cause any "slipping feeling" at all.

I think this is a very misleading, if not absolutely wrong, statement in the Edge manual. IF you are in 3rd gear, and IF the TC is locked, then the OSS and TSS will match (if there's no slippage). If the TC is unlocked, the TSS (Turbine Shaft Speed) will be greater than the OSS (Output Shaft Speed). Finally, in Overdrive, with the TC locked, the OSS will be greater than the TSS.

Finally, if you still experience poor drive-ability after taking all these factors into account, call Edge Tech Support! I think they will work to make you happy.

- Jack

 

So whats the scoop? Did you get everything all squared away?
Ditto on what Jack said...The flex tube is bad news "ram" or not. The reason a super charger works so well is it packs more air into the cylinder head, same with the reason cold air combusts better and cars run better at sea level, tighter molecules = better combustion =). Making the air turbulent into your manifold is no good. Thats why there are no aftermarket CAI's that arent smoooooth.

 

Nope, it's still cutting in and out for some reason. I haven't taken the flex tube off yet though. What about the AEM intake, been looking at one of those. I even called Edge, they have no clue why is feels like its misfiring.

 

OK, I give up. You're on two different threads here. You have a "mod" to your engine that may be causing the problem. Edge can't help you, although they've helped others, numerous times! Perhaps a programmer is just not something your truck likes?

- Jack

 

Does your truck do this slipping at a certain mph? Mine will shift into and out of fourth gear at about 30 mph and does something similar to what yours is doing. I've learned to stay over 32 or under 30 and it does fine. It was very disconcerting at first but once I figured it out I was fine. Have you tried looking at the Comm Gear on your display? Load that as one of the things you look at and see what its actually doing.